The 12V power socket in the center console can supply 10 amps. If you used a portable inverter you could get about 100W of usable AC power after conversion losses. That is enough for most laptops. You didn't say how much power your computer and monitor require.
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MASTER THREAD: Powering house or other things with Model 3
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MontyFloyd
Member
Hi all,
One feature I really want from an EV is powering / charging devices.
Looking at a recent M3 (which I plan to get), I found 4x USB-C plug.
This video from a year ago shows the 2 at back, and 2 under the phone holder.
IIRC, the model I saw in July also had 2x USB-C under the arm rest.
Besides that, the 2021 also had a USB-A in glove compartment, but I assume that is for the Tesla Cam stick.
On aside, I hope they keep at least one of the old USB-A in the car. I do not have a single USB-C cable.
Yes, I know, I can get an adapter as in the video, but that is another thing to get lost. I am not inclined to glue it in the car, too.
I did also find an 12v "cigarette lighter" socket in the arm rest box (about time to install a replacement?)
What I was hoping to find is a 110V, 15A output for AC devices. (a search on net overwhelming shows using a house 110V to charge a T, opposite of what I want).
Why do I want a 110V out? To power stuff with my (future) care battery. From camping, at the park, emergency on the road, or power out emergency at the house.
Yes, I know I can get a 12V to 110V inverter to use off the cig lighter socket. Nice if it was built in.
OH! to be sure, I am talking about tapping into the driving battery for 110v, not the 12v battery used for systems.
Did I miss something?
Is the USB connections changed since 2020?
(I did search here, not find anything related)
One feature I really want from an EV is powering / charging devices.
Looking at a recent M3 (which I plan to get), I found 4x USB-C plug.
This video from a year ago shows the 2 at back, and 2 under the phone holder.
IIRC, the model I saw in July also had 2x USB-C under the arm rest.
Besides that, the 2021 also had a USB-A in glove compartment, but I assume that is for the Tesla Cam stick.
On aside, I hope they keep at least one of the old USB-A in the car. I do not have a single USB-C cable.
Yes, I know, I can get an adapter as in the video, but that is another thing to get lost. I am not inclined to glue it in the car, too.
I did also find an 12v "cigarette lighter" socket in the arm rest box (about time to install a replacement?)
What I was hoping to find is a 110V, 15A output for AC devices. (a search on net overwhelming shows using a house 110V to charge a T, opposite of what I want).
Why do I want a 110V out? To power stuff with my (future) care battery. From camping, at the park, emergency on the road, or power out emergency at the house.
Yes, I know I can get a 12V to 110V inverter to use off the cig lighter socket. Nice if it was built in.
OH! to be sure, I am talking about tapping into the driving battery for 110v, not the 12v battery used for systems.
Did I miss something?
Is the USB connections changed since 2020?
(I did search here, not find anything related)
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RayK
Active Member
No 120VAC output is built into the car. Supposedly the Cybertruck will get that feature. Your only option at the moment is to use the 12V accessory plug inverter.
As far as the USB ports on the new cars are concerned, you can find aftermarket USB hubs which plug into the existing ports and can provide a variety of output types. Go to Amazon and search "2021 tesla model 3 usb hub".
As far as the USB ports on the new cars are concerned, you can find aftermarket USB hubs which plug into the existing ports and can provide a variety of output types. Go to Amazon and search "2021 tesla model 3 usb hub".
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
No, there is no 110V and won't be anytime soon. Tesla's warranty (p. 9) explicitly excludes using the vehicle as a stationary power source.
The best you can get is an inverter for the 12V socket, but note according to manual p23 it is limited to 12A continuous and 16A peak.
Note if you want to power something like a laptop however, it may be more efficient to get a car charger for laptops than convert to 110V and then use the normal power brick.
As for the USB-C sockets, you would have to get adapters, adapter cables or dongles. There is no way Tesla is going back to USB-A. The glovebox port is only USB-A given almost all USB sticks still use USB-A and the port really is only for that purpose for the dashcam.
Note that the two USB-C ports in the back are power only, only the two in the front in the center console work for data (for your music or if you want your dashcam storage to be there).
The best you can get is an inverter for the 12V socket, but note according to manual p23 it is limited to 12A continuous and 16A peak.
Note if you want to power something like a laptop however, it may be more efficient to get a car charger for laptops than convert to 110V and then use the normal power brick.
As for the USB-C sockets, you would have to get adapters, adapter cables or dongles. There is no way Tesla is going back to USB-A. The glovebox port is only USB-A given almost all USB sticks still use USB-A and the port really is only for that purpose for the dashcam.
Note that the two USB-C ports in the back are power only, only the two in the front in the center console work for data (for your music or if you want your dashcam storage to be there).
The thread I moved your post to is entirely devoted to "powering things with model 3".
MontyFloyd
Member
Thanks.
I did make effort to search, could not find the topic. Search term fail I guess.
MontyFloyd
Member
So the mix of USB-A and -C was changed to only -C?
So the rear are "PD" type then?
Sorry for getting into the minutia.
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
Yes for the 2021 refresh with updated console, all the ports (other than the new port in the glovebox) are USB-C.
I haven't tested the rear ports with my USB-C to USB-C cable yet, but I presume so. I do know when I plugged in an old Samsung tablet through a USB-C to A cable to an A to C adapter ( I didn't have a C-to-C cable yet) it did complain about the connection a bi.
On a Model S, it is possible to connect a larger inverter to the 12V system and draw power for emergency backup, I don't have a Model 3 but thought it will likely work too. The 12V battery is very small, around 30AH or so, but is automatically powered by a DCDC converter that output 13.5V or so from the main HV battery as needed, even when the car is off. So when you tap into the 12V system, the battery is just a temporary butter and all of the power is coming from the DCDC.
The DCDC is capable of 2500W on a 250A fuse, but you don't want to use nearly that much as the car can use power at any time (coolant pumps, contacts etc...), and drawing too much can cause the car to throw faults. I don't know the limit, 1000W is likely OK, 1500W maybe? I won't do 2000W or more. When you connect this, do not connect directly to the battery terminal, as there is a fuse between the battery and the DCDC that is of unknown rating and may blow. Connect to the DCDC side of the battery terminal fuse. Also, use an appropriately sized wire (e.g. 4AWG for 100A) and an inline fuse to protect the circuit, in case you cause a short you don't want to damage the car. Think of this as connecting a large audio amp to the car's system.
I've tested a draw of 800W for 2hrs from a 1000W inverter without issues. I drained a little less than 2kWh from the main battery. 1000W isn't too much for a hose and loads that come on can easily exceed that (e.g. sump pump). However, one can use this inverter to charge a unit like the Jackery 1500/2000 which is capable of outputting 1800/2200W or 3600/4400W peak (depending on model) and itself has a small 1.5/2kWh battery inside. This way, the house is connected to the Jackery which can handle the power surges while the car is charging it. The Jackery is designed to handle fluctuating larger loads and car's 12V is not for this purpose. You loose 20% efficiency this way, but can support larger loads temporary and is safer for your car.
This is absolutely not worth doing on a regular basis at all, but if you are in an emergency, it is possible to get some power from the car.
The DCDC is capable of 2500W on a 250A fuse, but you don't want to use nearly that much as the car can use power at any time (coolant pumps, contacts etc...), and drawing too much can cause the car to throw faults. I don't know the limit, 1000W is likely OK, 1500W maybe? I won't do 2000W or more. When you connect this, do not connect directly to the battery terminal, as there is a fuse between the battery and the DCDC that is of unknown rating and may blow. Connect to the DCDC side of the battery terminal fuse. Also, use an appropriately sized wire (e.g. 4AWG for 100A) and an inline fuse to protect the circuit, in case you cause a short you don't want to damage the car. Think of this as connecting a large audio amp to the car's system.
I've tested a draw of 800W for 2hrs from a 1000W inverter without issues. I drained a little less than 2kWh from the main battery. 1000W isn't too much for a hose and loads that come on can easily exceed that (e.g. sump pump). However, one can use this inverter to charge a unit like the Jackery 1500/2000 which is capable of outputting 1800/2200W or 3600/4400W peak (depending on model) and itself has a small 1.5/2kWh battery inside. This way, the house is connected to the Jackery which can handle the power surges while the car is charging it. The Jackery is designed to handle fluctuating larger loads and car's 12V is not for this purpose. You loose 20% efficiency this way, but can support larger loads temporary and is safer for your car.
This is absolutely not worth doing on a regular basis at all, but if you are in an emergency, it is possible to get some power from the car.
Just get a dedicated 12V battery and inverter and use that, I wouldn't risk powering stuff from the car. It's not designed for it, they warn against it for a reason. portable devices and laptops are fine but I wouldn't go further than that.
If you use a dedicated 12V battery and inverter you only risk ruining that battery rather than the car.
If you use a dedicated 12V battery and inverter you only risk ruining that battery rather than the car.
That’s why I use my jackery which is a battery plus inverter to run the house while tapping power from thr car to charge that. I don’t use the cigarette lighter as it isn’t enough power, I connect to the 12V bus like a high powered audio amp or another set of seat heaters and do that.
So you're using the car for something it wasn't designed for. Maybe in an emergency sure but why not just get a dedicated battery and power supply?
Because the car has a big battery and is there already. Do you know how much a 100kWh battery or even say a 20kwh battery enough to power important loads at your house for a day would cost? I don’t want to sink that much money into something that is useful but rarely used. This may not get used ever after the initial test, but it is good to know it can be when needed.
One reason for that is a home battery is a different design, with inverter and installation. You can't just plug a battery in to the wall, it needs a heap of other stuff.
I have existing home solar and a Tesla M3 but I don't bother with home storage. Too much expense for so little gain.
No, the 2013 Model S has separate components that were integrated together to form the PCS in the Model 3. See my PM reply.
I've been wanting to try plugging in an amp to my M3's lighter port in the center console. I have an inverter that I used in my old minivan and it worked just fine, but I'm always hesitant to mess around with my Tesla. The one I have is Bestek rated at 150w or 1.2a @ 120v, plus 2 USB charging ports. Is that safe?
I'm looking to try a small home music system in the car, with speakers built based on Fostex FF85WK drivers, an SMSL 50w amp and an iFi DAC, or alternatively a Raspberry Pi with DAC HAT. This is all a bit klugy I know, but it would give me true hi-res music in the car, with a system I know to be good. I did this same setup in my minivan (before I added an Aux port) and it sounded great in there. It won't be "surround", and it won't integrate with the car setup. All this is for the better. The source will be my iPhone playing Qobuz.
I would only bother with the setup on longer trips, not for day to day driving. Not sure where the speakers will go, either on the rear deck if they fit or just buckled into the rear seats. They need some room in the back for the rear port.
I'm listening to Chick Corea in a live show at 24/96 right now on this system.
I'm looking to try a small home music system in the car, with speakers built based on Fostex FF85WK drivers, an SMSL 50w amp and an iFi DAC, or alternatively a Raspberry Pi with DAC HAT. This is all a bit klugy I know, but it would give me true hi-res music in the car, with a system I know to be good. I did this same setup in my minivan (before I added an Aux port) and it sounded great in there. It won't be "surround", and it won't integrate with the car setup. All this is for the better. The source will be my iPhone playing Qobuz.
I would only bother with the setup on longer trips, not for day to day driving. Not sure where the speakers will go, either on the rear deck if they fit or just buckled into the rear seats. They need some room in the back for the rear port.
I'm listening to Chick Corea in a live show at 24/96 right now on this system.
MontyFloyd
Member
Very informative.
1500W, should be enough for any refrigerator.
Mine is 6.2A at 120v (off door), 744 W.
Yes, emergency needs.
Hi folks.
I would like to be able to run a little compressor fridge when camping via a small 150 watt inverter. I have metered the load at length at it will draw max 9 amps at 13.2 volts ish. It works fine using the 12 volt ACC plug in the centre compartment. But of course the car needs to be in camp mode for constant 12 volts here.
I noticed one member here mentioned he connected directly to the 12 volt post of the battery and indicated he had no problem. However, this would probably be more of a constant load. So I have three questions.
1. What does everyone think of this idea. Like I say, the little inverter works fine off of the 12 volt accessory so the current demand numbers are valid.
2. If I get a “replace the 12 volt battery” message, can I reset it myself.
3. I am assuming the car, even when asleep, will enable the DC to DC converter to replenish the 12 volt battery yes???
Thank you all.
I would like to be able to run a little compressor fridge when camping via a small 150 watt inverter. I have metered the load at length at it will draw max 9 amps at 13.2 volts ish. It works fine using the 12 volt ACC plug in the centre compartment. But of course the car needs to be in camp mode for constant 12 volts here.
I noticed one member here mentioned he connected directly to the 12 volt post of the battery and indicated he had no problem. However, this would probably be more of a constant load. So I have three questions.
1. What does everyone think of this idea. Like I say, the little inverter works fine off of the 12 volt accessory so the current demand numbers are valid.
2. If I get a “replace the 12 volt battery” message, can I reset it myself.
3. I am assuming the car, even when asleep, will enable the DC to DC converter to replenish the 12 volt battery yes???
Thank you all.
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