Max speed JUMPS!! in cruise control

[E-Lectric]

I have other cars with adaptive cruise control. And I’ve had many cars with some sort of cruise control. ALL of them will assume that ur current speed is the desired speed when you turn on CC.

Model 3 seems to assume by default (and I can’t figure out how to change) that I want to go 10 MPH *above* posted speed limit.

Yes. I know it will only actually go that fast if there is room. But I just want to go my current speed. (To make things worse, the map has the speed limit wrong on the major road nearest my house. Limit is 35mph. Tesla believe it is 45. And the car, therefore, tries to hit 55 in a 35 when I turn CC on.

Help!?!

 

[Fobble]

Did you set your GPS speed to allow 10 MPH above speed limit? That's what CC defaults to in my MS

 

[TexasEV]

Go into autopilot settings to adjust this. Also read the manual about how autopilot works (and everything else). Tesla is different in many ways. One of them is cruise is part of autopilot which adjusts your max speed based on the speed limit. Of course that’s a problem if the speed limit is not correct. You may not want to use autopilot in that section or road.

 

[josher32]

I have the opposite problem... I want it to speed up to my set speed above speed limit and not start at speed I’m driving and making me pull autopilot stock to increase to this setting.

 

[Knightshade]

By default it will set to either:

Your current speed
or
What it thinks the speed limit is- offset by your setting in AP controls (+/- up to 20 mph)

Whichever is faster.

For folks who want it to work like "other" cars and just set to their current speed, you just set your offset to -20 mph in the settings and you'll get what you want.

For folks who want the set speed higher than their current speed (assuming they're not already driving way above the speed limit) set it to +20 to get what you want.



Note- if using full EAP, not just TACC, the max it can do on highways is 90, and 50 on whatever it thinks are local roads.

if you go over 90 while on EAP it'll put you in autopilot jail until you turn the car off and on again.

(interestingly on local roads you CAN go over 50 without jail- by pressing the accelerator yourself... but this effectively disables the cruise control part as long as your foot is on the gas- the car won't slow down on its own with traffic or anything, so you're really only getting the auto-steer part of EAP when doing that)

 

[sduck]

There is an acknowledged (by tesla) bug - in that if you are going slower than what the car thinks the speed limit is (based on map), and you turn on TACC, it'll set to that speed limit, not the speed you are going. This is if you have the offset turned off, of course. They've said they are going to fix this, but haven't yet.

 

[TWANGnBANG]

The short term fix is actually pretty easy once you know what to do. TACC/EAP won’t accelerate to the indicated speed until you remove your foot from the accelerator. The trick to smoothly activating TACC/EAP when it defaults to a faster speed than you want is to keep your foot on the accelerator at the speed you want, then use the right scrollwheel to set the max speed you want. Remember that fast flicks of the scrollwheel automatically move the set speed 5mph at a time, and slow clicks move it 1mph/click.

So, if the max speed defaults to 55mph in a 35mph zone as you’re describing, you activate TACC/EAP while keeping your foot on the accelerator, then flick the right scrollwheel down four times. Max speed will then be 35mph, easy peasy.

 

[Knightshade]

The short term fix is actually pretty easy once you know what to do. TACC/EAP won’t accelerate to the indicated speed until you remove your foot from the accelerator. The trick to smoothly activating TACC/EAP when it defaults to a faster speed than you want is to keep your foot on the accelerator at the speed you want, then use the right scrollwheel to set the max speed you want. Remember that fast flicks of the scrollwheel automatically move the set speed 5mph at a time, and slow clicks move it 1mph/click.

So, if the max speed defaults to 55mph in a 35mph zone as you’re describing, you activate TACC/EAP while keeping your foot on the accelerator, then flick the right scrollwheel down four times. Max speed will then be 35mph, easy peasy.

Using the -20 offset in the AP settings I mentioned seems tremendously easier than your method. And you only need do it once too.

Then it simply always sets TACC/EAP to whatever your current speed is without doing anything else at all.

 

[spc]

What happened to "Set" and "Resume",???
It make no sense any of what is discussed here, TACC is really broken, the "Offset" is an alert I understand to let you know you are over the speed limit and should not have anything to do with the TACC. The MS and MX works great, one can SET the speed of travel and Resume at old speed like every good cruise control out there.
We drivers are entirely responsible for what the car does and should not be making any decision as to how fast we should go much less when it does not have correct information to make that decision on how fast it will set the car.
I drive on roads with the speed limit of 80MPH and 75MPH I have my alert to be 5. but like to travel at 68 where it uses much less juice. but every time I try to set TACC it want to go at 85MPH or 80MPH if no one is in front and here we are spinning that little wheel hard to get the car to slowdown to the speed I want to travel at, and once again and every time it is disengaged,
it gets old real quick, this is not what we should expect.
Please!!! this needs to be fixed and made it work just like the bigger brothers S and X.
Click halfway to SET at present travel speed, click full to RESUME the last speed of travel, click full twice to Auto-steer ON at present cruise speed, all independent of any offset or the speed limit of the road. Speed up or down fine adjustment on the little wheel is just fine.

I am all for innovation and progress (go Tesla) but it needs to make sense and be useful not annoying or hard to work with.

 

[Knightshade]

What happened to "Set" and "Resume",???
It make no sense any of what is discussed here, TACC is really broken, the "Offset" is an alert I understand to let you know you are over the speed limit and should not have anything to do with the TACC. The MS and MX works great, one can SET the speed of travel and Resume at old speed like every good cruise control out there.
We drivers are entirely responsible for what the car does and should not be making any decision as to how fast we should go much less when it does not have correct information to make that decision on how fast it will set the car.
I drive on roads with the speed limit of 80MPH and 75MPH I have my alert to be 5. but like to travel at 68 where it uses much less juice. but every time I try to set TACC it want to go at 85MPH or 80MPH if no one is in front and here we are spinning that little wheel hard to get the car to slowdown to the speed I want to travel at, and once again and every time it is disengaged,
it gets old real quick, this is not what we should expect.
Please!!! this needs to be fixed and made it work just like the bigger brothers S and X.
Click halfway to SET at present travel speed, click full to RESUME the last speed of travel, click full twice to Auto-steer ON at present cruise speed, all independent of any offset or the speed limit of the road. Speed up or down fine adjustment on the little wheel is just fine.

I am all for innovation and progress (go Tesla) but it needs to make sense and be useful not annoying or hard to work with.

Just put the offset as I describe and it works perfectly.

Whatever speed you engage it at, that's the set speed, just as you'd expect. Then you can scroll wheel it up if you want to be going faster.

Much easier than trying to remember/judge half clicks vs full clicks on a stalk never intended for that many things.... (not to mention you'd have to remember if you HAD a speed to resume or not, and what it was, because if you don't always recall that you might be in for an extra nasty surprise when it resumes to 80 in a 35).

 

[spc]

Just put the offset as I describe and it works perfectly.

Whatever speed you engage it at, that's the set speed, just as you'd expect. Then you can scroll wheel it up if you want to be going faster.

Much easier than trying to remember/judge half clicks vs full clicks on a stalk never intended for that many things.... (not to mention you'd have to remember if you HAD a speed to resume or not, and what it was, because if you don't always recall that you might be in for an extra nasty surprise when it resumes to 80 in a 35).

Maybe you dont have a model 3?? half click and full click is well defined no guess here. and what happens to the alerts +5 or 10? that is a great ticket saver as it has been a few times on my S and some obscure speed sign at lower speed limit in unfamiliar places.
it is still broken if we have to use work arounds to do what it should be done real simple. sorry.

 

[Knightshade]

Maybe you dont have a model 3??

Or maybe you don't want to use my much simpler and easier suggestion than yours which would add functions to an already crowded stick?

half click and full click is well defined no guess here

Until you start changing what they do as you suggest... and having to recall if you HAVE a set speed to resume or not as you suggest...

Versus my method where stick functions don't change at all, you simply avoid speed surges.

. and what happens to the alerts +5 or 10? that is a great ticket saver as it has been a few times on my S and some obscure speed sign at lower speed limit in unfamiliar places.

One of the reasons folks are needing to use the method I suggest is because the speed limit database in the car is wrong so often...(if it weren't then you wouldn't need to do this in the first place).... so saying you prefer to have set speeds dangerously broken in other to possibly be warned mistakenly you set your speed too fast doesn't make a ton of sense...

It'll still show you what it thinks the speed limit is if you're really not sure though, so even then you can get the info you want, even if it's often wrong.




Now- if you want to argue there should be two different settings... one for set speed offset (what I'm using it for) and one for "speed alarm trigger"- I'll be happy to agree. It's goofy they use the same setting for both functions.

 

[spc]

Or maybe you don't want to use my much simpler and easier suggestion than yours which would add functions to an already crowded stick?



Until you start changing what they do as you suggest... and having to recall if you HAVE a set speed to resume or not as you suggest...

Versus my method where stick functions don't change at all, you simply avoid speed surges.



One of the reasons folks are needing to use the method I suggest is because the speed limit database in the car is wrong so often...(if it weren't then you wouldn't need to do this in the first place).... so saying you prefer to have set speeds dangerously broken in other to possibly be warned mistakenly you set your speed too fast doesn't make a ton of sense...

It'll still show you what it thinks the speed limit is if you're really not sure though, so even then you can get the info you want, even if it's often wrong.

Please lets not try to find excuses and work arounds to not fix what is broken here. Where is the sign recognition the doc say it should work? my model S see speed limit sign just great and every time for the past 3 years and depend on no maps but my model X and M3 is blind and uses broken data from old maps, and if it is done correctly like the old AP1 we should not need to do your way or the other post way but with a simple flick of the lever. SET and RESUME just simple, intuitive, efficient and user friendly.
You are defending this hard enough for me to think you are the one responsible for the crappy software design.

 

[Knightshade]

Please lets not try to find excuses and work arounds to not fix what is broken here. Where is the sign recognition the doc say it should work? my model S see speed limit sign just great and every time for the past 3 years and depend on no maps but my model X and M3 is blind and uses broken data from old maps, and if it is done correctly like the old AP1 we should not need to do your way or the other post way but with a simple flick of the lever. SET and RESUME just simple, intuitive, efficient and user friendly.

AP2 does not read signs, so dunno why you think it should.

FSD will- at which point you can go back to using this feature as an old-man-not-paying-attention-to-speed-limits alert instead of a "make set speed safe" setting.

In the meantime what I'm telling you actually works today in the 3.

Versus your complaints about how you want them to add even more functions to an overcrowded control stick.

 

[spc]

AP2 does not read signs, so dunno why you think it should.

FSD will- at which point you can go back to using this feature as an old-man-not-paying-attention-to-speed-limits alert instead of a "make set speed safe" setting.

In the meantime what I'm telling you actually works today in the 3.

Versus your complaints about how you want them to add even more functions to an overcrowded control stick.

what is so overcrowded function on that stick?

"make set speed safe" pull the stick once set TACC at the present speed. now that is safe...not set speed.... waiiitttt felll that POWWER MAN!!!! WOW!!!

hahaha FSD??? I spent the money when I got my X in 2017 in hoping I would see it by now, not this time. now is "show me the money". Sorry, the way it is going backwards with broken simple TACC, going blind and getting drunk on AS, I have my doubts it will happen so soon.
I wonder how much you are getting paid for every time you debate a negative tag. What do you drive anyway?

and I thought I was a diehard Tesla defender for the past 4+ years.
You win.

 

[Dana1]

What happened to "Set" and "Resume",???
It make no sense any of what is discussed here, TACC is really broken, the "Offset" is an alert I understand to let you know you are over the speed limit and should not have anything to do with the TACC. The MS and MX works great, one can SET the speed of travel and Resume at old speed like every good cruise control out there.
We drivers are entirely responsible for what the car does and should not be making any decision as to how fast we should go much less when it does not have correct information to make that decision on how fast it will set the car.
I drive on roads with the speed limit of 80MPH and 75MPH I have my alert to be 5. but like to travel at 68 where it uses much less juice. but every time I try to set TACC it want to go at 85MPH or 80MPH if no one is in front and here we are spinning that little wheel hard to get the car to slowdown to the speed I want to travel at, and once again and every time it is disengaged,
it gets old real quick, this is not what we should expect.
Please!!! this needs to be fixed and made it work just like the bigger brothers S and X.
Click halfway to SET at present travel speed, click full to RESUME the last speed of travel, click full twice to Auto-steer ON at present cruise speed, all independent of any offset or the speed limit of the road. Speed up or down fine adjustment on the little wheel is just fine.

I am all for innovation and progress (go Tesla) but it needs to make sense and be useful not annoying or hard to work with.

You could set your speed limiter to 80...

 

[Saghost]

(To make things worse, the map has the speed limit wrong on the major road nearest my house. Limit is 35mph. Tesla believe it is 45. And the car, therefore, tries to hit 55 in a 35 when I turn CC on.

Help!?!

Like any other Navigation problem you find, It'll get fixed faster if you report it. When the bad speed limit is visible on your screen, hit the voice recognition, say "bug report" and then summarize the issue in a spoken sentence or two. The car will take screen shots and send them with your comments to the Tesla team to fix it.

 

[Knightshade]

what is so overcrowded function on that stick?

Well, let's see-

Currently if you push fully up, that's reverse... if you push halfway up (or down!) for 1 full second, it's neutral... if you push all the way down, it's drive... unless you're already IN drive, AND you are going over 18 (or there's a vehicle ahead of you) then it's TACC... if you push all the way down twice (AND you're already in drive) then it's Autosteer (with TACC). Push the end for Park.

hahaha FSD??? I spent the money when I got my X in 2017 in hoping I would see it by now, not this time. now is "show me the money".

Good news, it's coming pretty shortly along with HW3, which unlike HW2.x actually allows all the cameras to be read at full resolution/speed, so it'll be able to do sign detection.

"make set speed safe" pull the stick once set TACC at the present speed. now that is safe...not set speed.... waiiitttt felll that POWWER MAN!!!! WOW!!!

Time for me to ask if you actually own a model 3.

Unlike the left stick, the right one doesn't get pulled (which on the left stick flashes highbeams). It only goes up and down.


Again though- the method I told you about makes it work exactly how you want- it sets TACC to present speed.

So you can either do that and get the behavior you want- or keep driving dangerously. Your call.

 

[spc]

snip---- AND you are going over 18 (or there's a vehicle ahead of you) then it's TACC... snip

Again though- the method I telling you about makes it work exactly how it should- it sets TACC to present speed without loosing any other function safely as you say without any other method.....so...... just go and make it so please....

Time for me to ask if you actually own a model 3.

just read my sig and go check if I own one or not. and BTW... again.... my old 2015 S still reads signs great and it does not have any of the new hardware.

 

[Knightshade]

Again though- the method I telling you about makes it work exactly how it should- it sets TACC to present speed without loosing any other function safely as you say without any other method.....so...... just go and make it so please....

Except the method you suggest does not actually exist outside of your imagination.

The one I suggest does exist on the actual car and you can use it right now

A
just read my sig and go check if I own one or not. and BTW... again.... my old 2015 S still reads signs great and it does not have any of the new hardware.

That's why it reads signs.

It has a much more limited feature set, but reading speed limits is on that list of limited features.

The newer cars do a ton of things your AP1 car can't, but not that.

the NEW new hardware (HW3, free upgrade with FSD) will read speed limit signs (and stop signs, and red lights, and more) later this year.