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Model 3 front suspension clunking

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Clearly an issue with temperature. Driving this week....on Tue/Wed/Thur in Nashville it was in the 20s/30s. Lots of clunking on various bumps, etc. Today it was 56 and not a clunk to be heard. So strange.

We also have a Model Y which does not exhibit this issue.
 
I lifted my car up today and when I push/pull the front halfshaft (axle) it makes the clunk sound! The sound comes from where it meets up with the motor. I’ve had this issue since 40K miles, Tesla couldn’t figure it out and my warranty has since expired. So pissed.
 
I lifted my car up today and when I push/pull the front halfshaft (axle) it makes the clunk sound! The sound comes from where it meets up with the motor. I’ve had this issue since 40K miles, Tesla couldn’t figure it out and my warranty has since expired. So pissed.
I’ve noticed this as well. I plan to bring it up to Service’s attention, but I have aftermarket suspension so I’m curious if they’ll deny my request. Probably will need to put my stock suspension back on.

Are you on the stock suspension? And does it do it when turning the wheels, at low speed?

Edit - just noticed your prior posts about being on MPP and replacing various suspension components.
 
Looking for a solution to this problem as well.
2019 LR, replaced both UCA, and the end link.
Regarding the axle half shafts making the clunking noise:
If this is the issue, we should test drive SR models and try to replicate the issue.
 
Hi Everyone,

Ive had my model 3 SR+ for about two weeks now, as soon as i took delivery i noticed there was a clunking noise coning from the front right hand corner, it seems to be mainly on moderate bumps or speed bumps. I have taken the car back and the guy and the service centre claims its a "characteristic of the car".

Not happy with this answer i went off to the showroom and asked if i could borrow another model 3 for comparison and as expected, no noise from the demo car. Has anyone else encountered this issue with the front suspension knocking, it sounds very much like a faulty damper or ball joint worn.

Motorway driving is fine but side roads with bumps and pot holes a nightmare.

I tried to take a video but the phone mic wouldn't pick up the noise clearly enough sorry.

Not what you would expect from a brand new car. Anyone's experiences and hopefully resolutions would be appreciated.

Thanks.
Upper and lower control arms changed now no knocking
 
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The drive shaft knocking sounds like it. The input shafts use a spring retaining clip to hold the axle in. This allows for easy replacement as opposed to circlips. In my experience circlips ensure a nice tight fit and spring clips allow some slop. Putting to tight of a fit on spring clips could cause them to come out.
 
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Just got off the phone with Tesla. Replacement of the entire halfshaft including tax & labor (no diagnosis fees) is $282.16. So not as bad as I was imagining. I’m in California for reference.
Ya... that's your outer CV joint failing or at least misbehaving. The inner CV is supposed to allow in-out movement of a few inches anyway. I don't know the retaining method for the mid-axle connecting to the outer CV on the Tesla, but its usually a circlip on other cars. I can't imagine why there'd be extra play there.

I haven't looked at the terms of the warranty, but why wouldn't it be covered?
 
Tesla just updated their quote. $981. Failed under warranty, they couldn’t diagnose. Now I’m out of warranty and they are happy to fix for almost $1000
Would be interesting to see what they say the problem is. If its inside the drive unit I'd argue its part of the drive unit warranty.

Ever consider small claims court? If you have the attempt to diagnose at 40k documented, it should be easy to justify.
 
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I have experienced this noise in front wheel drive cars. What is happening is that small bumps in the road is pushing up the suspension a little bit and that shortens the distance between the hub and the gear box. This will push against the shaft pushing in the cv joints and pushing the inner cv joint into the drive unit making a slight tapping/knocking noise.

Here you can see where the noise is actually coming from the lip up against the differential.
http_imgload.jpg
 
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Would be interesting to see what they say the problem is. If its inside the drive unit I'd argue its part of the drive unit warranty.

Ever consider small claims court? If you have the attempt to diagnose at 40k documented, it should be easy to justify.

I love me some small claims, IMO its one of those great institutions that almost nobody uses and everyone is some what scared of, but once you go through it a few times, its the fastest way to get *sugar* done.

I had to threaten tesla with a lawsuit early on in our ownership when it took them 5 tries to finally get my front cameras (and thus autopilot and all that) to work correctly. I do a bit of consulting work with our legislature here so I'm more willing to use the levers of government to make things happen. I called up both the Attorney General and the paid lobbyist for Tesla at the capitol and got the AG to write a nastygram and informed the lobbyist it was coming. Magically, everything was fixed within a week or two...

Sometimes you've just got to turn the screws on em.
 
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I have experienced this noise in front wheel drive cars. What is happening is that small bumps in the road is pushing up the suspension a little bit and that shortens the distance between the hub and the gear box. This will push against the shaft pushing in the cv joints and pushing the inner cv joint into the drive unit making a slight tapping/knocking noise.

Here you can see where the noise is actually coming from the lip up against the differential.
http_imgload.jpg
Was the fix to replace the halfshaft?
 
Was the fix to replace the halfshaft?
The noise is 'normal'. Typically more difficult to hear in an ice car. I believe it is the design. It provides quicker assembly by just popping the axle stub into the differential. Porsche has flange axle stubs that bolt in and then the cv joint is bolted to the flange. Some Subarus have the axle stub held in with a circlip and the cv joint held on to that with a pin.