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Model 3 - LR AWD Waiting Room

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60 Amps is required for wall connector to pass the max of 48 Amps to the car. But if it works out cheaper for you and you can live with a slightly longer charge time you can drop the circuit to 50 or 40 Amps which may be easier and cheaper to wire up. There are settings on the charger to limit the current draw so it can never exceed what your wiring can handle. And in practical terms, unless you have a really long commute, if you charge late at night into the morning with lower settings the car will still be filled up when you leave in the morning.
I'm running 32 amps on my wall charger with a 40 amp breaker because my electrician installed 8 gauge wire instead of 6 (at the time I didn't know what kind of EV I was getting, and I didn't know any better). It's more than enough though I find. I get over 30 miles per hour charging, more than enough to recharge overnight from even fairly low states. And honestly the slightly quicker home charging is not enough to justify the extra cost of 6/2 wire.

For those getting quotes from electricians for installation, especially if your pannel has the space already and you're doing a short run to the charger, consider doing it yourself. That's not officially the correct answer from anybody, but it is really not that hard. If you're even moderately handy you could easily do it yourself. I wrote about this way earlier in this thread but I installed the 40 amp breaker and charger myself (the electron ran the 8/3 wire), and with a few youtube videos and the correct tools, it's extremely easy. The hardest part was finding a wire stripper that would strip the larger gauge wire, most seem to only go to 10 gauge.

I believe it's 100 amp.
Time for an upgrade. If you're paying for the wall charger installation, I'd pay to have a 200 amp pannel put in at the same time if you can.

Edit to add that I'm sure there's way more than 100 amps coming into your home, you probably just only have a 100 amp panel.
 
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I believe it's 100 amp.
If it’s only 100, your service may have a hard time charging your vehicle and running the rest of the house, unless your other major appliances (stove, water heater, heater, etc) are gas. If everything is electric, you will probably have to upgrade your service to 200amp, which won’t be cheap.
 
I never thought about that side of it before but I guess it's a good point. I'm gonna do more research into that thanks

What exactly did he say was the issue with the charger on the circuit

Edit: you added that part in about the temperature after ;) but that's honestly a deal breaker then. Sometimes we get at or near there in the dead of winter. Imagine thinking your charging your car only to find it dead because of the cold. Tesla should be a little more up front about that
Sorry for the late reply - had to reschedule the appointment to last Sunday due to unforeseen circumstances on the electrician's side.

So it seems even electricians have their own myths/misunderstandings/old wives' tales.
Basically he was under the impression when you use the mobile charger you are using it for a continuous load for +24 hours to recharge the battery, but that's only if you're starting from 0% (plug it in everyday guys, jeez!).
When I mentioned that the mobile charger runs at the recommended 80% rating, he said that it was a "guideline", with his hands forming air quotes.
When he said that I'm reminded of what its like when a developer mentions that all their buildings are built to the fire code - well, the fire code is the minimum, so they're saying that they build their houses to the bare minimum legally required.

So his concern was running 12A on the 15A circuit and the potential heat it generates if you run it for +24 hours, which hypothetically could lead to melted insulation and a fire.

And since it seems the current thread theme is wall charger installs, here's mine.
DSC_2345.JPGDSC_2347.JPG
The first appointment was a load calculation, then they decided to go for a 50A breaker. Installation didn't include the wall charger (their office said they install a 14-50 NEMA outlet or a customer-provided Tesla wall charger), so that was another $520.
1658793967824.png

They were supposed to install it all on Sunday, but apparently the store he checked was out of stock of Cutter Hammer 50A breakers. So he just drilled the holes, ran the wires, mounted the wall charger, and was going to get the breaker today to install it.
Well, seems like the global parts shortage still affects me even if I already got my car, since it seems at least all the hardware stores in my area don't have any CH 50A breakers in stock.
He said it has to be the same brand as everything else or the inspection fails.
So for now there's just a 30A breaker as a placeholder till the breaker comes next week.
DSC_2292.JPGDSC_2293.JPG
When he came last week he said that the load assessment was already iffy with the sauna in the basement (which we've used only once), and today he said he'll step it down to a 40A breaker because he doesn't wanna chance it with the city inspector.
Unlabelled 40A breakers on the left are for the subpanel to the outside shed, and the unlabelled 30A breakers on the right are for the upstairs washer/dryer plugs (our washer/dryer are using the plugs in the basement).
 
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That's a great question for your lender. It's their paperwork and the answer is subject to how they view the transaction.

I purchased my Tesla with a trade plus cash and when the paperwork was finished, I found that the car had been reported (for tax purposes) as being purchased for the cash amount, not the combined amount. So the world of finance is whatever the people doing the accounting say it is. I should trade in the Model 3 I have for a new one so that I only have to pay a couple thousand more in cash - and I'll have a car valued by the state as only a couple thousand dollars. It would save me a bunch on annual property taxes.
Well, my plan was to finance through Tesla since it's the fastest option and don't want to have any issues with payment being received and all the other stuff. Probably later on refinance to get a lower rate. But once I get that text from the SA I'll definitely ask about how they work for the trade in. Thanks!
 
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Sorry for the late reply - had to reschedule the appointment to last Sunday due to unforeseen circumstances on the electrician's side.

So it seems even electricians have their own myths/misunderstandings/old wives' tales.
Basically he was under the impression when you use the mobile charger you are using it for a continuous load for +24 hours to recharge the battery, but that's only if you're starting from 0% (plug it in everyday guys, jeez!).
When I mentioned that the mobile charger runs at the recommended 80% rating, he said that it was a "guideline", with his hands forming air quotes.
When he said that I'm reminded of what its like when a developer mentions that all their buildings are built to the fire code - well, the fire code is the minimum, so they're saying that they build their houses to the bare minimum legally required.

So his concern was running 12A on the 15A circuit and the potential heat it generates if you run it for +24 hours, which hypothetically could lead to melted insulation and a fire.

And since it seems lots of people are talking about wall charger installs, here's mine.
View attachment 832789View attachment 832790
The first appointment was a load calculation, then they decided to go for a 50A breaker. Installation didn't include the wall charger (their office said they install a 14-50 NEMA outlet or a customer-provided Tesla wall charger), so that was another $520.
View attachment 832792
They were supposed to install it all on Sunday, but apparently the store he checked was out of stock of Cutter Hammer 50A breakers. So he just drilled the holes, ran the wires, mounted the wall charger, and was going to get the breaker today to install it.
Well, seems like the global parts shortage still affects me even if I already got my car, since it seems at least all the hardware stores in my area don't have any CH 50A breakers in stock.
He said it has to be the same brand as everything else or the inspection fails.
So for now there's just a 30A breaker as a placeholder till the breaker comes next week.
View attachment 832796View attachment 832802
When he came last week he said that the load assessment was already iffy with the sauna in the basement (which we've used only once), and today he said he'll step it down to a 40A breaker because he doesn't wanna chance it with the city inspector.
Unlabelled 40A breakers on the left are for the subpanel to the outside shed, and the unlabelled 30A breakers on the right are for the upstairs washer/dryer plugs (our washer/dryer are using the plugs in the basement).
Thanks for the reply. I may be misunderstanding but if you're only gonna use a 40 amp breaker which will charge at 32 amps then essentially the wall charger is not going to be much better then a nema plug. Again if someone knows better please feel free to correct me.

Edit: I know someone said above 32 amps is enough for overnight charging and I'm sure it is but in my opinion the whole point of the Tesla wall charger over the nema is to hit that high 48 amp charging speed. Whether it's worth it or not is a different conversation ;)
 
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Thanks for the reply. I may be misunderstanding but if you're only gonna use a 40 amp breaker which will charge at 32 amps then essentially the wall charger is not going to be much better then a nema plug. Again if someone knows better please feel free to correct me.

Edit: I know someone said above 32 amps is enough for overnight charging and I'm sure it is but in my opinion the whole point of the Tesla wall charger over the nema is to hit that high 48 amp charging speed. Whether it's worth it or not is a different conversation ;)
Tesla wall charger looks nicer ;)
Also I wanted the mobile charger in my trunk as a backup.
 
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Gen 3 wall charger installed today. Encourage those looking to install one to shop around. Was quoted ~$1,900 & $2,500 (both quotes included wall charger) by 2 electric service companies listed on Tesla's website. Ended up purchasing it myself ($400) and then paying an electrician $450 including materials to put it in. Was a fairly long wire run from my box to the garage. The wiring for it (6/2 with a ground) was not easy to find (7 different hardware stores around me were completely sold out).
So we originally went with a NEMA 14/50 and when all was said and done we simply purchased the Tesla Wall charger.
Thank you!! Yes the vin shows mine is from Fremont too. This is the only thing that I am 100% sure.🤣 I’ll let you know if I figure out something new. At this point, let’s hope the best🤞🤞
AWESOME!
I just started grabbing quotes and they came back saying they need to do a load calculation due to load restraints which makes me nervous. I feel like it's gonna cost me an arm and a leg for this damn charger installation.
Your biggest cost will be the wiring. For us we elected to do the run from a 50Amp to the Tesla wall charger. We have a 200 service panel but elected to go with a 50A breaker......we do not need the 60A breaker but at the time they were out of stock so elected to go with the 50A breaker
Make sure you get quotes from multiple electricians to verify that the load calculations that they're doing match up. There were plenty of people commenting that when an electrician hears the word "Tesla" their eyes light up with dollar signs. "Tesla? Oh, that's gonna require a lotta work to upgrade for the massive power load. A lotta work."
Exactly!!! You can do it yourself and save a few dollars......ours was a PITA to get it around our header/footers for a 50' run. We managed to get it under 40' but it was a PITA.
60 Amps is required for wall connector to pass the max of 48 Amps to the car. But if it works out cheaper for you and you can live with a slightly longer charge time you can drop the circuit to 50 or 40 Amps which may be easier and cheaper to wire up. There are settings on the charger to limit the current draw so it can never exceed what your wiring can handle. And in practical terms, unless you have a really long commute, if you charge late at night into the morning with lower settings the car will still be filled up when you leave in the morning.
Yup....60A is not required for charging as you stated. 50A is just slightly under the the max but it is way easier to run. Cheaper too.
 
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For any of my Phoenix peeps coming up on delivery, I thought that at the time of my order I input my address and selected the Mesa service center as my preferred delivery option...turns out that AFTER your order is in and you have your RN # you have to then select the location you want. Turns out they are all delivered to Scottsdale, I did not know that!
 

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For folks looking at the charging options....

Be VERY careful on what you choose. Installing a NEMA 14/50 is a good way to go but be sure to get an outlet that is designed for it.

Hubble is probably your best bet. Bryant is your second best (same manufacturer and a bit less in cost)....both have a faceplate that does not work with things from Lowes/Home Depot.....

Here is a good video on choices for NEMA 14/50 if you are considering one.....


For us....we installed the wiring for a 14/50 two months ago and then decided to go with the TESLA wall charger. THE ONLY reason we did that is that my wife wants another Tesla....*Power sharing that the NEMA 14/50 can't do unless you run another circuit.

The wiring is essentially the same for the run; whether it is a 14/50 run or a Tesla wall charger. The advantages of a 14/50 is pretty common here in Colorado/Wyoming/Utah at campgrounds.

What is insane is that the prices on these outlets are going through the roof! Remember, if you are charging you EV all the time you want something that is designed to be used all the time (AKA use it for all charging). Leviton is super inexpensive but probably not something you want. I have one in our basement but it never gets "unplugged and plugged".

Here is another good video.....


You can save a few bucks using a NEMA 14/50; Just add up the costs and figure out what you need/require.
 
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It cost me $750 to run my line 19' in a particular way, and to make it look professional, I bought the wall connector separately. Sadly I did this before Duke Energy started a program to support installs, so I only get 26% back since it was with my solar install. If in NC and on Duke Energy look up "EV Charger Prep Credit" it can literally pay for all of this up to $1,117. That is a free wall connector and installation of a new 220 line with a breaker easily. Read the fine print, Duke Energy is a stickler, you will have to submit permits, reciepts etc, but worth the pain for free money!
For any NC Duke Energy customers who don't have a charger installed yet. Check this program out, get it while it is available.

 
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I just started grabbing quotes and they came back saying they need to do a load calculation due to load restraints which makes me nervous. I feel like it's gonna cost me an arm and a leg for this damn charger installation.
We had the same thing! Install was NOT cheap! Had 5 different quotes before we finally just gave in and realized our install was going to be on the higher side (sigh). But the good news is, it is installed and looks great. Inspector comes on Wednesday to confirm everything is good! Really wanted this after the variety of quotes we received based on distance and load concerns
 
FYI for anyone

 
FYI for anyone

Thanks @ZZ118 updated my VIN stuff!
 
FYI for anyone

For reference this can be found in the future by searching

Model 3 Order Spreadsheet​

 
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