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Model 3 - LR AWD Waiting Room

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They sure are pumping out the whites right now.......wish they would switch to some silver

I wished I would've kept white and used the money for black for the 19" wheels. But I don't want to change anything now and risk not getting the car. I am sure I'll love the black/black combo. I've been looking at getting aftermarket wheels and also the Mayde wheel covers (if keeping the Aero wheels).
 
I wished I would've kept white and used the money for black for the 19" wheels. But I don't want to change anything now and risk not getting the car. I am sure I'll love the black/black combo. I've been looking at getting aftermarket wheels and also the Mayde wheel covers (if keeping the Aero wheels).
I've been wondering, why do you want the 19" wheels? You'll have a worse ride and worse efficiency than with the standard aeros, and they're pretty heavy so handling would be better with aftermarket forged 19" wheels. Unless you really like how the 19" wheels look I guess, but I personally think the aeros with aftermarket covers look fine.

I ordered the uberturbine looking covers from AliExpress, should be here a bit after the car 😂

Honestly half the reason I went with M3LR instead of M3P was so I could get those 18" aeros standard.
 
To those who financed your auto loan through your own bank/credit union not through Tesla:
  1. Did you keep your Tesla order as “paying in cash in full”?
  2. If so, did you then just bring a check issued by your bank for the full purchase price of the car (including taxes/fees) to the dealer on delivery day?
  3. Any issues/tips for this process?
I'm financing through a credit union. I changed from paying in cash on the app to financing after receiving my VIN. Tesla then created the MVPA paperwork to provide to the credit union with the lender name and amount being financed. If any doubts, just message your SA. I was approved for 3.29% for 84 months at Adelfi Credit Union.
 
I've been wondering, why do you want the 19" wheels? You'll have a worse ride and worse efficiency than with the standard aeros, and they're pretty heavy so handling would be better with aftermarket forged 19" wheels. Unless you really like how the 19" wheels look I guess, but I personally think the aeros with aftermarket covers look fine.

I ordered the uberturbine looking covers from AliExpress, should be here a bit after the car 😂

Honestly half the reason I went with M3LR instead of M3P was so I could get those 18" aeros standard.
It was only to close the gap between the fender and tire. LOL. Grew up working on cars, but now that I am older -- might just leave it. I did see the uberturbine too! There is only a handful of YT videos on them. Oh trust me, I have my list on AliExpress that I am about to order today. That's so funny! SAME BOAT. What else did you order? Haha.

True -- I switch back and forth on why I went for M3LR instead of M3P, mostly due to range. If I go to 19+, ill lose range and defeats the purpose of my decision. Lol.
 
My car's coming soon (9/9-9/15) so I'll let you know how it goes.

I applied for the Tesla financing but their lowest current APR is 4.49%, which is trash. Told my SA about it, they said to just bring the check and they switched the payment method to cash (pay in full).
Yeah my order has been set to pay in cash/full since the beginning. My bank says they’ll just cut me a check for the full amount to take with me on delivery day.
I'm financing through a credit union. I changed from paying in cash on the app to financing after receiving my VIN. Tesla then created the MVPA paperwork to provide to the credit union with the lender name and amount being financed. If any doubts, just message your SA. I was approved for 3.29% for 84 months at Adelfi Credit Union.
That’s interesting - that‘s the first I’ve heard about switching to financing in-app even though you’re not financing the car through Tesla. I’d think you’d keep it in-app as paying cash because that’s what you’re technically doing, then financing privately through your bank
 
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I got all all the cheapest options besides blue paint. No FSD or anything. I live in NJ may be based on my location? Could also be a glitch I seen my EDD go all over the place with my first tesla.

I had the same exact changes, except I was originally scheduled for January-April. Now I’m at September 24-October 8th. Also in NJ. All stock choices.

I originally ordered at the end of June but changed my order over from RWD to Long Range two days before that configuration was taken down. So, we will see if the timeframe holds.
 
Yeah my order has been set to pay in cash/full since the beginning. My bank says they’ll just cut me a check for the full amount to take with me on delivery day.

That’s interesting - that‘s the first I’ve heard about switching to financing in-app even though you’re not financing the car through Tesla. I’d think you’d keep it in-app as paying cash because that’s what you’re technically doing, then financing privately through your bank
I don't know if its a new option but I had it as cash and when the time came, I was able to chose between Tesla Financing or 3rd Party Financing. If you are not paying cash you cannot leave it as cash. Changing it to 3rd party will prompt to enter that financing institution info such as name, phone, amount being financed, etc. So I did the 3rd party financing. I just picked up my car today and the whole process was so fast I am still in shock lol. I was in / out in less than 5 minutes. I glanced over and there were no scratches, no issues, no gaps. Everything perfect. All documentation and payments submitted ahead of time through the app so the only thing was show them my ID and sign one paper and I was on my way.
 
I don't know if its a new option but I had it as cash and when the time came, I was able to chose between Tesla Financing or 3rd Party Financing. If you are not paying cash you cannot leave it as cash. Changing it to 3rd party will prompt to enter that financing institution info such as name, phone, amount being financed, etc. So I did the 3rd party financing. I just picked up my car today and the whole process was so fast I am still in shock lol. I was in / out in less than 5 minutes. I glanced over and there were no scratches, no issues, no gaps. Everything perfect. All documentation and payments submitted ahead of time through the app so the only thing was show them my ID and sign one paper and I was on my way.
Thanks for the info! So you financed your car through your own bank and just switched to “3rd party financing” in the app, submitted the bank’s info, then Tesla took care of the rest? Or did you have to facilitate any funds transfers? Did you bring a check with you on delivery day?
 
I'm financing through a credit union. I changed from paying in cash on the app to financing after receiving my VIN. Tesla then created the MVPA paperwork to provide to the credit union with the lender name and amount being financed. If any doubts, just message your SA. I was approved for 3.29% for 84 months at Adelfi Credit Union.
Does Adelfi take care of the paperwork or do they send you check for delivery. Thinking about using them and was curious. Thanks!
 
To those who financed your auto loan through your own bank/credit union not through Tesla:

Did you keep your Tesla order as “paying in cash in full”?
If so, did you then just bring a check issued by your bank for the full purchase price of the car (including taxes/fees) to the dealer on delivery day?
Any issues/tips for this process?


I ordered M3 LR Dual Motor AWD, gray/black, aero wheels, no FSD in May 2022. I specified full CASH payment.
Since then I have added FSD and changed payment to down payment plus FINANCING.
I am planning to take a BANK CHECK to delivery day on Sep 20

TLDR;
EAP wasn't available ordering.
In June I added EAP, when Tesla started offering it again.
A lot has happened this past week or so.
I had NOT planned to get FSD, but recently changed my mind.
I switched from EAP to FSD. It was a tough, unexpected decision*
A week ago I changed the payment method to financing (my credit union, 2.99% for 36 months), plus a down payment directly from me.
A couple days ago I was notified my VIN was assigned. Copies of docs to review were then all available,though I was not yet prompted to review them. The app prompted me for info to withdraw my down payment funds. I did.
The next day I was notified my car had SHIPPED ...with an EDD window of Sep 17-21!
Tesla quite clearly indicates online that lender payment via ACH is PREFERRED. My lender also says ACH is better.
However, the Tesla rep at the local service center then said they typically take bank checks on delivery day. So, I AM PLANNING TO TAKE A BANK CHECK to delivery day.
The Tesla rep asked for my loan approval doc, which I provided. They provided the MVPA to be used for the loan amount. I forwarded that to my CU.
Today I got the notification to schedule delivery, with times available Sep 20-22. I took the first available on the 20th.

That will be right at 4 months elapsed time, from order to delivery.

*FSD Decision Factors:
(1) New FSD Beta with notable improvements;
(2) Elon announced near term $3,000 FSD price increase, and
(3) he restated FSD prices would continue to be incrementally increased over time;
(4) Elon has always asserted FSD will be a significant value;
(5) Analysts agreeing FSD WILL increase value over time, especially fully functioning and continually improving FSD.
 
OD 8/4 - Columbus, OH
White/white/aero M3LR, no FSD/EAP
Orig window: Nov 22 - Feb 23
8/31 updated window: Dec 22
9/1 VIN assigned (351XXX) - EDD 9/15-9/19

Today (9/6) changed from loan to full cash payment because I'm getting a better rate loan elsewhere.
New EDD 9/9-9/15

Super excited, I hope your guys' cars come in soon 👍
Delivery scheduled 9/14
 
It was only to close the gap between the fender and tire. LOL. Grew up working on cars, but now that I am older -- might just leave it. I did see the uberturbine too! There is only a handful of YT videos on them. Oh trust me, I have my list on AliExpress that I am about to order today. That's so funny! SAME BOAT. What else did you order? Haha.

True -- I switch back and forth on why I went for M3LR instead of M3P, mostly due to range. If I go to 19+, ill lose range and defeats the purpose of my decision. Lol.
CCS1 adapter is also incoming, but from A2Z in Canada, and hansshow 9" screen because I'm cheap and want android auto instead of paying for premium connectivity
 
So just to sum up what I've learned, watching videos and reading articles. If any of these steps/products is unnecessary and/or someone knows more and can provide details, my wallet will appreciate it...

1) clean the car, I bought a foamer attachment and foaming soap
2) use an iron remover to remover iron dust and wash off
3) dry the car with microfiber towels
4) apply hydrophobic protectant to the wheels/tires/rims/windows
5) use a clay bar and lubricant to clean off the car of final contaminants
6) use a polisher and compound to remove swirls and scratches (paint correction)
7) use a polisher and polish to finish preparing the paint
8) use alcohol spray to disinfect the car
9) apply ceramic coat one panel at a time, let dry for 5 minutes then wipe off
10) reapply ceramic coat again 24 hours later
11) relax and enjoy the car finally and stop worrying about everything :)

DIY Ceramic coating - don't waste money with a pro​

Living in the Northeast where we get harsh winter and hot summers, I've always had to be on top of our vehicles. Especially when from November through March there really isn't much opportunity to even wash the car because of the weather, even though road salt turns every vehicle gray. Currently, my wife and I have a BMW X5 and a Ford Raptor which I applied Adams Ceramic coating to both of them 18-24 months ago. Both are still repelling water/dirt like the day I coated them, which is surprising because the Raptor is always outside and the BMW is garage kept.

Anyway, this is what my process is to ceramic coat a car. Hopefully, it's of value to someone who may have never ventured down the detailing road. This will be the process I use immediately after taking delivery of my Model Y.
(Note: none of the links are affiliate links and clicking any of them doesn't benefit me in any way. Just providing a means to quickly look at products I use)

Wash Decontamination. Spray car using foam cannon with strip wash. Use microfiber cleaning sponge & bucket to then wash car down. Rinse car
* This step will remove any polish/wax that the dealer may have put on the car. I use Adams Strip wash

Chemical Decontamination. Spray Iron remover on car. With gloves on, use small microfiber towel to spread evenly on paint. Let it sit a few minutes, then rinse.
* This step will remove any iron from the factory and/or transporting vehicle to you. Especially if it ships via train. Warning: The iron remover smells REALLY bad. I use CarPro IronX or Adams Iron Remover

Hand Decontamination. Using lubricant spray and either a clay bar or synthetic pad, spray lubricant on car and run clay/pad across paint until there are no particles being picked up. You'll know when you feel them. Just use a lot of lubricant and do small sections at a time & do every surface including paint, glass and plastics. Rinse car well when done. If you have some dried up lubricant on car, quick wash it before rinsing.
* I've used Griot's Clay bar & Speed Shine in the past, but recently switched to Nanoskin AutoScrub sponge and Nanoskin Glide

Dry car. Sounds simple, but make sure the car is dry before next step. In the past I've used a leaf blower, but if you do MAKE SURE if it's one that also vacuums up leaves that there are no pieces left in it or you'll be sandblasting the car.

Polish car. For this step, you really do need a polisher. A great entry level polisher is the Griots G9 polisher $129. Couple that with Adams Polish and an Adams White pad and you will really notice the difference in the paint. If your paint has a lot of swirls/scratches in it, start with Adams Compound first, and then move to polish. The great part about Adams polishing products is the color of the polish is the same color pad you need to use.

It is essential that you use a surface cleaner between the polish and ceramic/sealant step. The polish leaves oils on the paint that will mess with the LSP's ability to bond and can dramatically reduce the life of the LSP. There are lots of pre-bottled solutions, but isopropyl alcohol diluted with distilled water works just fine as well.

The kit I used from Adams had Surface Prep included, which was part of the instructions.

Apply sealant. There are many prosumer sealants out there, and almost all will offer a 4-7 year ceramic protection on your car. When the Tesla comes in, I'll use Adams Graphene coating $90. Note: You want the BOTTLE of coating, not a spray! Big difference!! One bottle can do two cars. I'll likely also do the wheels with this as well. Follow the directions on the bottle of whichever sealant you use and be sure to remove the product in the timeframe it indicates. Just do small areas of the car at a time, wait for it to dry/flash and then remove it.

All together, if you had absolutely none of the products mentioned above, it would cost about $300-400 which includes buying a polisher. Considering you could do two cars for a few hundred $$$, it's a big savings. Even if you never used the polisher again.

EDIT: Ironically, after browsing obsessed garage, I came across Matt's video where he's detailing a new Tesla. Almost identical to what I just posted above. CHeck it out
Matt at Obsessed Garage's process.

A couple of other suggestions:
  • As noted earlier, you need to strip the paint after polishing
  • On a new car, I would polish selectively, where you see issues, and not automatically polish the whole car
  • Emphasize applying the coating in small sections--no more than a panel--also use one of those paint correction lights to check for areas that you missed or high spots that you should knock down before its done flashing
How long does it take to complete the entire process as described in your post?

Strip wash. 10 min
Iron remove spray. 20 min
Clay Bar. 30 min
Polish. 60 min
Prep & apply coating. 60-90 min.

Could be anywhere from 3-4 hours for the above. Of course, there's also the tires, inside of car & then cleaning everything up and putting it all away. Not to mention taking a break here or there. I'd count on 5-6 hours.

If you’re not a Pro, Multiply every category other than the coating by 2-4x, in my experience.

The process is easy, it just takes a lot of time to do it. I would say anyone can do it if you have patience. Remember, the most important part it's buffing, you need to wait for 2 to 10 mins depending on your room tempature. If it's summer, usually 2 mins, then you need to wax if the towel. The best way it's to wait for ceramic the change it's color like the rainbow, then you need to wax/clean up with towel. I have weak eyes, so I did the timing.
Is worth it? Definitely big YES. Either you DYI or professionally is a must-have to me. Your car will shine, it will skid all water, also very easy to wash your car.

Also, once yall are done do not use car washes anymore, as they use aggressive ph soaps that will break down your coating.
 

DIY Ceramic coating - don't waste money with a pro​

Living in the Northeast where we get harsh winter and hot summers, I've always had to be on top of our vehicles. Especially when from November through March there really isn't much opportunity to even wash the car because of the weather, even though road salt turns every vehicle gray. Currently, my wife and I have a BMW X5 and a Ford Raptor which I applied Adams Ceramic coating to both of them 18-24 months ago. Both are still repelling water/dirt like the day I coated them, which is surprising because the Raptor is always outside and the BMW is garage kept.

Anyway, this is what my process is to ceramic coat a car. Hopefully, it's of value to someone who may have never ventured down the detailing road. This will be the process I use immediately after taking delivery of my Model Y.
(Note: none of the links are affiliate links and clicking any of them doesn't benefit me in any way. Just providing a means to quickly look at products I use)

Wash Decontamination. Spray car using foam cannon with strip wash. Use microfiber cleaning sponge & bucket to then wash car down. Rinse car
* This step will remove any polish/wax that the dealer may have put on the car. I use Adams Strip wash

Chemical Decontamination. Spray Iron remover on car. With gloves on, use small microfiber towel to spread evenly on paint. Let it sit a few minutes, then rinse.
* This step will remove any iron from the factory and/or transporting vehicle to you. Especially if it ships via train. Warning: The iron remover smells REALLY bad. I use CarPro IronX or Adams Iron Remover

Hand Decontamination. Using lubricant spray and either a clay bar or synthetic pad, spray lubricant on car and run clay/pad across paint until there are no particles being picked up. You'll know when you feel them. Just use a lot of lubricant and do small sections at a time & do every surface including paint, glass and plastics. Rinse car well when done. If you have some dried up lubricant on car, quick wash it before rinsing.
* I've used Griot's Clay bar & Speed Shine in the past, but recently switched to Nanoskin AutoScrub sponge and Nanoskin Glide

Dry car. Sounds simple, but make sure the car is dry before next step. In the past I've used a leaf blower, but if you do MAKE SURE if it's one that also vacuums up leaves that there are no pieces left in it or you'll be sandblasting the car.

Polish car. For this step, you really do need a polisher. A great entry level polisher is the Griots G9 polisher $129. Couple that with Adams Polish and an Adams White pad and you will really notice the difference in the paint. If your paint has a lot of swirls/scratches in it, start with Adams Compound first, and then move to polish. The great part about Adams polishing products is the color of the polish is the same color pad you need to use.

It is essential that you use a surface cleaner between the polish and ceramic/sealant step. The polish leaves oils on the paint that will mess with the LSP's ability to bond and can dramatically reduce the life of the LSP. There are lots of pre-bottled solutions, but isopropyl alcohol diluted with distilled water works just fine as well.

The kit I used from Adams had Surface Prep included, which was part of the instructions.

Apply sealant. There are many prosumer sealants out there, and almost all will offer a 4-7 year ceramic protection on your car. When the Tesla comes in, I'll use Adams Graphene coating $90. Note: You want the BOTTLE of coating, not a spray! Big difference!! One bottle can do two cars. I'll likely also do the wheels with this as well. Follow the directions on the bottle of whichever sealant you use and be sure to remove the product in the timeframe it indicates. Just do small areas of the car at a time, wait for it to dry/flash and then remove it.

All together, if you had absolutely none of the products mentioned above, it would cost about $300-400 which includes buying a polisher. Considering you could do two cars for a few hundred $$$, it's a big savings. Even if you never used the polisher again.

EDIT: Ironically, after browsing obsessed garage, I came across Matt's video where he's detailing a new Tesla. Almost identical to what I just posted above. CHeck it out
Matt at Obsessed Garage's process.

A couple of other suggestions:
  • As noted earlier, you need to strip the paint after polishing
  • On a new car, I would polish selectively, where you see issues, and not automatically polish the whole car
  • Emphasize applying the coating in small sections--no more than a panel--also use one of those paint correction lights to check for areas that you missed or high spots that you should knock down before its done flashing
How long does it take to complete the entire process as described in your post?

Strip wash. 10 min
Iron remove spray. 20 min
Clay Bar. 30 min
Polish. 60 min
Prep & apply coating. 60-90 min.

Could be anywhere from 3-4 hours for the above. Of course, there's also the tires, inside of car & then cleaning everything up and putting it all away. Not to mention taking a break here or there. I'd count on 5-6 hours.

If you’re not a Pro, Multiply every category other than the coating by 2-4x, in my experience.

The process is easy, it just takes a lot of time to do it. I would say anyone can do it if you have patience. Remember, the most important part it's buffing, you need to wait for 2 to 10 mins depending on your room tempature. If it's summer, usually 2 mins, then you need to wax if the towel. The best way it's to wait for ceramic the change it's color like the rainbow, then you need to wax/clean up with towel. I have weak eyes, so I did the timing.
Is worth it? Definitely big YES. Either you DYI or professionally is a must-have to me. Your car will shine, it will skid all water, also very easy to wash your car.

Also, once yall are done do not use car washes anymore, as they use aggressive ph soaps that will break down your coating.
Thank you very much for the detailed outline. It sounds like my research was correct and yes I did spend about 400$ for all the products including the polisher. The only thing I am concerned about is using the polisher as I have not done so before. I have my old beater car that I will practice on prior to the tesla but any suggestions on using the polisher would be appreciated. Also when you say "strip the pain" you are talking about using the alcohol after polishing to remove the oil correct? With regards to the alcohol step should I only do it on the parts I machine polish or the whole car? Thanl you