Model 3 Performance Spacers

[vogz]

I believe it's a different approach than a studded spacer. H&R is a regular 14mm spacer paired with shank bolts that dig further into the lug bore.

This is a decent solution for spacing OEM wheel applications, as you don't have to worry about the hub pocket depth. However, you will be stuck using these bolts exclusively.

I think you mean shank nuts, not bolts. That would make sense since the oem lugs are the only thing you're tightening down on.

 

[KyleM3]

I'm not doubting you but this doesn't add up with all the data I have pulled on my 2020 P3D with the factory 20" wheels. You have obviously pulled this off without issues or vibration so just gonna check some things. You have the red calipers right? Wheels just like mine as seen below?

I found the P3D stud protrusion on factory rotors is 32mm. With that said a 14mm spacer will still have (32 - 14) = 18mm of stud protrusion. Since the 2020 P3D OEM wheel has a 16mm pocket depth then there's still a 2mm clearance issue and is why a 20mm is recommended. It's very interesting that yours is working out so I'm just trying to figure out how or why your car is different.
View attachment 642382 View attachment 642383

Lol, yes. It’s a Performance with red calipers and satin 20’s (September ‘20 build). I remember when researching whether I was going to add spacers or not the issue kept coming up about the spoke depth from the backside. It was inconsistent amongst M3P owners. Maybe I got lucky? I made H&R swear these would work before biting the bullet. Maybe mine had a little more spacing, but I didn’t install them so I can’t speak to the specific measurements. I had springs installed with the spacers and told them specifically do not install spacers if it requires any modification.

 

[P3D-R]

Lol, yes. It’s a Performance with red calipers and satin 20’s (September ‘20 build). I remember when researching whether I was going to add spacers or not the issue kept coming up about the spoke depth from the backside. It was inconsistent amongst M3P owners. Maybe I got lucky? I made H&R swear these would work before biting the bullet. Maybe mine had a little more spacing, but I didn’t install them so I can’t speak to the specific measurements. I had springs installed with the spacers and told them specifically do not install spacers if it requires any modification.

Oh I see so your spacers are not studded in this case. They are slip on spacers with a shank lugnut. That's definitely clever and resolves this problem of running less than 20mm spacer on our car with certain OEM wheels/brakes. You can see how these spacers have studs embedded into them. Yours did not correct? Note the last picture where this spacer bolts to the hub and then the wheel bolts to the studs on the spacer.

Thanks, Rishie

 

[MODEL+]

I think you mean shank nuts, not bolts. That would make sense since the oem lugs are the only thing you're tightening down on.

Yup! I come from German cars, that's why I'm used to referring to "lug bolts". With that being said, if our cars used lug bolts instead of nuts/stud, we wouldn't need to discuss any of this haha.

 

[KyleM3]

Oh I see so your spacers are not studded in this case. They are slip on spacers with a shank lugnut. That's definitely clever and resolves this problem of running less than 20mm spacer on our car with certain OEM wheels/brakes. You can see how these spacers have studs embedded into them. Yours did not correct? Note the last picture where this spacer bolts to the hub and then the wheel bolts to the studs on the spacer.

Thanks, Rishie

View attachment 642430
View attachment 642431

Exactly. Did not have studs attached, used OG hardware.

 

[AAKEE]

So you are saying the 21 M3P need different sized spacers than the 20?

Wonder if the additional 1/2" of rim width of the ubers changed what spacers fit right.

Yes, thats right. The half inch wider wheel distrubutes 1/4” per side, and the ET is 34mm compared to 35mm on the 2020 20” wheels?
In total the outer side of the wheel sits 1/4”+ 1 mm = 7.3mm longer out in stock position.

Compared to the common choise for the 2019/2020 spacers of 20 mm rear and 15 mm front it should be about 14 mm rear and 8 mm front to get the wheel rim in same outer position.

I measured the pockets inside the stock 20” Überturbines, and they are at least 17.5 mm (0.69”)deep( measurements 17.7-17.8mm).

I think theres place in rear in the pockets for the stock studs if using spacers that bolts on new studs. In front, probably not depending on the selected spacer thickness. I will probably go for H&R DRS spacers where the stud bolts is changed for longer ones.
Im about to measure the ”need” for spacers with the 20” Überturbines but still, as my performance isnt lowered yet (30the exact choise of spacers isnt clear.
Ideas/tips for this is welcome.

 

[MODEL+]

Yes, thats right. The half inch wider wheel distrubutes 1/4” per side, and the ET is 34mm compared to 35mm on the 2020 20” wheels?
In total the outer side of the wheel sits 1/4”+ 1 mm = 7.3mm longer out in stock position.

Compared to the common choise for the 2019/2020 spacers of 20 mm rear and 15 mm front it should be about 14 mm rear and 8 mm front to get the wheel rim in same outer position.

I measured the pockets inside the stock 20” Überturbines, and they are at least 17.5 mm (0.69”)deep( measurements 17.7-17.8mm).

I think theres place in rear in the pockets for the stock studs if using spacers that bolts on new studs. In front, probably not depending on the selected spacer thickness. I will probably go for H&R DRS spacers where the stud bolts is changed for longer ones.
Im about to measure the ”need” for spacers with the 20” Überturbines but still, as my performance isnt lowered yet (30the exact choise of spacers isnt clear.
Ideas/tips for this is welcome.

View attachment 644279

There should be no issues running 15/20 with Uberturbines, it all comes down to preference on how much poke you like.

We started carrying Aspira Auto Design and H&R to accommodate for a wide range of needs. We have been doing some spacers testing on our demo car.




This wheel spec is almost identical to Uberturbine's 20x9 +34. Though keep in mind, this is on a non-performance model car, so account for 5mm less poke on a performance model car. Also, our car is using 245/35s, while factory spec are 235/35s, so you will have even less to worry about.



However, thank you for measuring the hub pockets on the Uberturbines, we now know that you can use the 15mm version Aspira Spacers on a Performance Model 3. We also carry hub-centric H&R 14mm / 17mm / 20mm to accommodate a range of wheel options and stance preferences.

Feel free to message us for any fitment related questions, we do this all day long.

-Danny

Aspira Auto Design Wheel Spacers

All sizes in-stock ready to ship. Hub-centric design with notch cut out. Compatible with ALL versions of Model 3 & Model Y. 6061-T6 billet aluminum keeps things strong and lightweight. Anodized Black finish is just plain sexy, and will remain that way throughout the seasons. 12.9 top-grade...

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H&R TRAK+ Wheel Spacers

In-stock ready to ship. H&R TRAK+ premium hub-centric spacers for Tesla Model 3 & Model Y are made in Germany. These spacers are to be used ONLY with Factory OEM Tesla Wheels. Please use Aspira Auto Design Spacers with aftermarket wheels. 10mm - DRS Style includes extended shank lug nuts (as...

modelplusstudio.com

 

[AAKEE]

There should be no issues running 15/20 with Uberturbine

This wheel spec is almost identical to Uberturbine's 20x9 +34. Though keep in mind, this is on a non-performance model

Something doesnt add up:
I briefly put the Uberturbines on for measurements today and at rear the outer part of the wheel is about 17mm in from the outer part of the wheel house/fender outside. A 15mm spacer would work, 20 mm would put the outer side of the wheel outside of the wheel house( about 3mm of the wheel/tyre would be visible if looking from straight above.

In front there only 7 mm (or slightly below) difference between the wheel/tyre and the wheel house/fender outer part. If I put 15 mm spacers in front there would be 8 mm of the wheel visible from straight above on the widest part of the fender. This was measured on the left hand side of the car, its about 2mm less on the right side.
This is also before lowering the car( H&R 30mm kit on order), lowering should widen the track by about 0.7-1mm due to the suspension link arms changing angles( I did measure the length and present angle and did a calculation on it).

I think I go for 10 Front and 15 Rear, that should put my wheels slightly 1-2mm more poking than the usual 15/20 on a 2019/2020 with 20”.
5-7 Would be best in front but I didnt really find any good solutions there.

 

[MODEL+]

Something doesnt add up:
I briefly put the Uberturbines on for measurements today and at rear the outer part of the wheel is about 17mm in from the outer part of the wheel house/fender outside. A 15mm spacer would work, 20 mm would put the outer side of the wheel outside of the wheel house( about 3mm of the wheel/tyre would be visible if looking from straight above.

In front there only 7 mm (or slightly below) difference between the wheel/tyre and the wheel house/fender outer part. If I put 15 mm spacers in front there would be 8 mm of the wheel visible from straight above on the widest part of the fender. This was measured on the left hand side of the car, its about 2mm less on the right side.
This is also before lowering the car( H&R 30mm kit on order), lowering should widen the track by about 0.7-1mm due to the suspension link arms changing angles( I did measure the length and present angle and did a calculation on it).

I think I go for 10 Front and 15 Rear, that should put my wheels slightly 1-2mm more poking than the usual 15/20 on a 2019/2020 with 20”.
5-7 Would be best in front but I didnt really find any good solutions there.

I'm assuming there's strict car modifications regulations in Sweden, like some other parts of the world? We don't have that here in the US so it all comes down to preference. Another thing to keep in mind is when you lower your car, natural camber will set in to pull the wheels/tires inward. It's a delicate balance.

 

[AAKEE]

I'm assuming there's strict car modifications regulations in Sweden, like some other parts of the world? We don't have that here in the US so it all comes down to preference. Another thing to keep in mind is when you lower your car, natural camber will set in to pull the wheels/tires inward. It's a delicate balance.

Yes, we have regulations and it used to be strict adherence at least for the once a year safety inspection. But since we entered EU there was a new concept of ”whole-car-approvement/certification” whick where supposed to straighten things up even more. In the end, it got impossible to control = everything got more or less free. But still they cannot stick out of the fender. Not that I worry about that, Id like to try to get them flush with the fender or maybe 1 mm inside.

I did see this post:
’21 M3P with Überturbinesand spacers
As it looks, the spacers thickness and amount of ”poke” is in like with my measurements. It dorsnt look lowered though, and the pictures doesnt really say much about the percieved look from the side and a bit away from the car. So judgemrnt about the look is hard.

I will do a wheel alignment after the lowering springs is mounted so I would guess the camber will be according to stock values after that, and no gain in extra space there.

 

[MODEL+]

Yes, we have regulations and it used to be strict adherence at least for the once a year safety inspection. But since we entered EU there was a new concept of ”whole-car-approvement/certification” whick where supposed to straighten things up even more. In the end, it got impossible to control = everything got more or less free. But still they cannot stick out of the fender. Not that I worry about that, Id like to try to get them flush with the fender or maybe 1 mm inside.

I did see this post:
’21 M3P with Überturbinesand spacers
As it looks, the spacers thickness and amount of ”poke” is in like with my measurements. It dorsnt look lowered though, and the pictures doesnt really say much about the percieved look from the side and a bit away from the car. So judgemrnt about the look is hard.

I will do a wheel alignment after the lowering springs is mounted so I would guess the camber will be according to stock values after that, and no gain in extra space there.

That makes a lot of sense to me now.

Keep in mind, 20x9 +34 is 7mm wider all around compared to previous 20x8.5 +35 performance wheels. That's why things look a bit funky when the car isn't lowered. Our demo car is lowered all the way down on MPP coilovers.

If you're doing lowering springs and would like to keep your tires within regulation guidelines, I'd suggest 14mm rear spacer.
I would do a 10mm in front. I found these, but I'm not sure if the CB is notched out to accommodate for performance hubs.
Actually, I will contact and ask, and then report back here.

 

[AAKEE]

That makes a lot of sense to me now.

Keep in mind, 20x9 +34 is 7mm wider all around compared to previous 20x8.5 +35 performance wheels. That's why things look a bit funky when the car isn't lowered. Our demo car is lowered all the way down on MPP coilovers.

If you're doing lowering springs and would like to keep your tires within regulation guidelines, I'd suggest 14mm rear spacer.
I would do a 10mm in front. I found these, but I'm not sure if the CB is notched out to accommodate for performance hubs.
Actually, I will contact and ask, and then report back here.

I have ordered 10 + 14mm H&R DR, which use special nuts. Also another 5 mm fit in spacer, mostly for testing. I guess 10mm maybe will be a tad to much so the 5mm is to test between 5 and 10. I also have the option to lathe a couple of millimeters of the 10mm spacer if needed.

Thanks for the answers and time, much helpful

 

[MODEL+]

Generic spacer photos aren't good enough for us here.
As promised, here is a better look at the H&R extended shank nut next to a standard aftermarket lug nut.

The cool thing is the black anodized version includes matching black lug nuts. Ideal for those with darker factory wheels like Zero-G and Uberturbines.

The 17mm/20mm version are restudded, which also features notch cut out for you to use with ALL Model 3 and Model Y variants.
We will try our best to always keep these in stock and ready to go.

-Danny

H&R TRAK+ Wheel Spacers

In-stock ready to ship. H&R TRAK+ premium hub-centric spacers for Tesla Model 3 & Model Y are made in Germany. These spacers are to be used ONLY with Factory OEM Tesla Wheels. Please use Aspira Auto Design Spacers with aftermarket wheels. 10mm - DRS Style includes extended shank lug nuts (as...

modelplusstudio.com

 

[MODEL+]

Follow Up​

After some late night testing on our Model 3, we found some pretty interesting information with these H&R Spacers.

1) H&R Spacers are to be used with Factory OEM Tesla Wheels ONLY! This was a real head scratcher at the beginning, but I think we found the culprit. These spacers fit over the car's hub just fine, but we couldn't mount our aftermarket Forgestar wheel onto the spacer itself.
These same wheels were previously mounted onto the car directly, as well as onto Aspira spacers with no hiccups. No matter what, we couldn't get the H&R spacer bore lip to sit inside of our Forgestar wheel. We compared the H&R bore lip side by side with the car's bore lip and visually they look the same, which should be 64.1mm.

Finally, we took the spacers and tested it directly onto the factory wheels (18" Aero) and it fits!

Our suspicion is that H&R made the tolerance tight on purpose so these spacers can only be used with OEM Factory wheels, which has relief cuts as shown below...

2) H&R 14mm DRS Style Spacers are to be used on Model 3 Performance ONLY.

Model 3 Performance or PUP cars have hubs that sit 5mm further in, which translates to 5mm extra stud exposure. This is crucial as demonstrated below on the front of our non-performance Model 3.

15mm of thread exposure before the wheel is mounted is NOT enough thread, even when used with included extended shank lug nuts. This applies to the rear of non-performance Model 3 as well.

Conclusion​

Spacing out factory OEM Wheels on Model 3 Performance - use H&R Spacers
Spacing out factory or aftermarket wheels, use Aspira Auto Design Spacers.
H&R 14mm Spacers are designed to be used on Model 3 ONLY.
Confused? Contact us for any compatibility and fitment related questions. We're happy to assist!

-Danny

 

[AAKEE]

I bought H&R DRS 10mm and 14mm, with the lug nuts in the picture.

The 10mm spacers I got can not be used on a Model 3 Performance due to the dual diameter center hub. The 10mm spacers lacked the gropve for the 70.1mm inner center ring and instead obly had a about 45 degree chamfer. Trying to mount the spacer causes the chamfer to hit the 70.1mm inner hub.
The 14mm spacer worked fine, and I think there was enlugh number of complete thread revolutions to achieve full strength.

14 mm was sweet spot in my eyes rear with the überturbine, which ended up just one mm shy of the fender outside. Looks good. When using my winter wheels( yes the spacers work fine om these as well) but as the wibter tyres is 8.5” with ET35 the wheel outer side comes about 7 mm longer in in the wheel housing( which I knew when ordering)
For the front, the 10 mm spacers couldnt be mounted. I also ordered 5mm spacer plates because the calculation said 10 mm might be too much. I found the 5mm to be quite good with the wheels flush to the fender outside, so if using more than 5 mm there would be more poke in front.

To sum up, for the M3P with 20” überturbine 14mm rear and 5mm front seems like a good choise.

 

[MODEL+]

I bought H&R DRS 10mm and 14mm, with the lug nuts in the picture.

The 10mm spacers I got can not be used on a Model 3 Performance due to the dual diameter center hub. The 10mm spacers lacked the gropve for the 70.1mm inner center ring and instead obly had a about 45 degree chamfer. Trying to mount the spacer causes the chamfer to hit the 70.1mm inner hub.
The 14mm spacer worked fine, and I think there was enlugh number of complete thread revolutions to achieve full strength.

14 mm was sweet spot in my eyes rear with the überturbine, which ended up just one mm shy of the fender outside. Looks good. When using my winter wheels( yes the spacers work fine om these as well) but as the wibter tyres is 8.5” with ET35 the wheel outer side comes about 7 mm longer in in the wheel housing( which I knew when ordering)
For the front, the 10 mm spacers couldnt be mounted. I also ordered 5mm spacer plates because the calculation said 10 mm might be too much. I found the 5mm to be quite good with the wheels flush to the fender outside, so if using more than 5 mm there would be more poke in front.

To sum up, for the M3P with 20” überturbine 14mm rear and 5mm front seems like a good choise.

Yes that would make sense the 10mm doesn't work. The hub lip on the M3P makes finding proper hub-centric spacers and wheels very difficult in the aftermarket. Can you tell me about how many lug nut revolutions are you getting using the 14mm on the rear of your M3P? Or better yet if you have any thread exposure measurements? Thanks in advance

-Danny

 

[AAKEE]

The hub lip on the M3P makes finding proper hub-centric spacers and wheels very difficult in the aftermarket. Can you tell me about how many lug nut revolutions are you getting using the 14mm on the rear of your M3P? Or better yet if you have any thread exposure measurements? Thanks in advance

-Danny

Strange that H&R had the 14mm DRS made right but the 10mm wrong.

Well, the studs is 31.5mm long so it leaves 17.5mm when using 14mm spacers.

The special longer nuts has 8 3/4 revolutions from grip to torqued on my 19” aftermarket winter wheels. I did test the spacers with the überturbine to check that the wheels positioned nice but I didnt count the revolutions on those.

For 8.8 and 12.9 bolts the industry norm is thread grip length = 1 x the nominal diameter so about 14mm thread grip length to reach maximum strength. For strong materials(or HQ nuts) it could be set down to 0.8 x the nominal diameter.

8 3/4 x 1.5 mm pitch gives 13mm thread grip length which means that we are very close to the maximum strength. I would not be worried about this.

I have a plan to change to longer studs when I have set the spacer amount to the right look, this will make it possible to use stock nuts and also normal wheel lock nuts. The DRS special nut can not safely be changed to a classic lock nut.

I did choose this DRS over the thicker versions that use extra stud bolts as it might be possible that I get other rims that have too small grooves/pockets. This solution both set me with the same type front and rear, and no pocket depth to worry about.

 

[MODEL+]

Strange that H&R had the 14mm DRS made right but the 10mm wrong.

Well, the studs is 31.5mm long so it leaves 17.5mm when using 14mm spacers.

The special longer nuts has 8 3/4 revolutions from grip to torqued on my 19” aftermarket winter wheels. I did test the spacers with the überturbine to check that the wheels positioned nice but I didnt count the revolutions on those.

For 8.8 and 12.9 bolts the industry norm is thread grip length = 1 x the nominal diameter so about 14mm thread grip length to reach maximum strength. For strong materials(or HQ nuts) it could be set down to 0.8 x the nominal diameter.

8 3/4 x 1.5 mm pitch gives 13mm thread grip length which means that we are very close to the maximum strength. I would not be worried about this.

I have a plan to change to longer studs when I have set the spacer amount to the right look, this will make it possible to use stock nuts and also normal wheel lock nuts. The DRS special nut can not safely be changed to a classic lock nut.

I did choose this DRS over the thicker versions that use extra stud bolts as it might be possible that I get other rims that have too small grooves/pockets. This solution both set me with the same type front and rear, and no pocket depth to worry about.

Thank you for your insight. We will continue to do more testing and will post here if we find anything to add.

 

[IDRVSLO]

Hi everyone been reading thru this thread and hopefully I have this right... 2020 Model 3 Performance with PUP, (manf in Feb 2020, delivered in March of 2020)
Right front pocket depth between 13.4 and 13.7mm/Left front pocket depth between 12.9mm and 13.3mm ... so no go on the "studded" 15mm spacers without mods. I'm more than likely going with 5mm up front for now.

If I look on Ebay there are a crap ton of BloxSport 20mm spacers that say they work for 2019 but not 2020... are they the same?
I noticed the Aspira spacers that Model+ carries specify 100 ft-lbs of torque. For those of you using the Aspira, Bloxsportm or any other spacer do you torque at 129ft-lbs?

TIA

 

[MODEL+]

Hi everyone been reading thru this thread and hopefully I have this right... 2020 Model 3 Performance with PUP, (manf in Feb 2020, delivered in March of 2020)
Right front pocket depth between 13.4 and 13.7mm/Left front pocket depth between 12.9mm and 13.3mm ... so no go on the "studded" 15mm spacers without mods. I'm more than likely going with 5mm up front for now.

If I look on Ebay there are a crap ton of BloxSport 20mm spacers that say they work for 2019 but not 2020... are they the same?
I noticed the Aspira spacers that Model+ carries specify 100 ft-lbs of torque. For those of you using the Aspira, Bloxsportm or any other spacer do you torque at 129ft-lbs?

TIA

For your set up, I recommend the H&R 14mm/20mm combo.
These have been flying off the shelves for us lately.
Thanks to all you guys for the support on here!

Torque Aspira @ 100lbs on ALL hardware. Can't speak for the other products.

Danny