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Model 3 Power Liftgate?

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What?

I'm looking at how the TeslaOffer kit is working RIGHT NOW.

Its using CAN bus.

I'm not looking to re-design it or anything.

I fully understand why TeslaOffer used CANbus to operate this unit. CANbus is so easy to read and program and there would be no hurdles to overcome to get the car's information.

The ONLY problem with CAN bus is that the owners of the CAN bus coding can change it whenever they want......and they did. AND they will in the future.
Unfortunately the ONLY problem has/will be a huge problem with its functionality in the future.

IMHO TeslaOffer isn't large enough to keep up with Tesla.

I'm holding off on my install because I need my trunk to work ALL of the time.

You literally asked me how the liftgate can work without CANbus. Someone showed off (I can't find the link now) a kit that worked without CANbus and allowed you to close the trunk on the in-car screen. I'm just describing how it works.

Also, your original question was to ask if this would be a problem for the soft closing doors. I'm saying no because you fundamentally don't need CANbus links to intercept the door popper circuitry.

If your trunk not opening because of an update is a killer for you, I'd just suggest not buying the kit then... So far, TeslaOffer has provided an update before the Tesla update even released to the vast majority of folks and have been responsive. Even so, this is only ever an issue immediately following updates (and not all updates). It's not like you're going to get stranded in the middle of a parking lot here...
 
The TeslaOffer one doesn't work because it was designed in a certain way. There's another kit someone linked that works just fine with no CAN connection at all. It even lets you close the liftgate using the button on the screen.

Here's how you design the liftgate to work without CAN:
  • Put something in line with the trunk latch (just like the TeslaOffer kit)
  • When the button inside the trunk is pressed and the latch is considered 'closed', send it along to the car, trigger the car to 'unlatch', then start running the trunk struts to open the liftgate
  • After some time, spoof to the car that the trunk is 'latched' (even though it isn't). That would let the trunk button on the screen work fine
  • If you receive a trunk pop command (from any buttons, or the screen) while open, run the trunk struts in reverse, close, trunk, done
Only problem I see with this method is that the Tesla doesn't know the 'true' position of the latch. You'd have to spoof the position so the screen works properly.

TeslaOffer kit is relying on access to the CANbus to know the trunk latch position before doing stuff... so it would have issues.

Honestly, not really sure why they designed this kit to need CANbus. Maybe there's something I'm missing as per required functionality? App support? Or maybe it goes into lower power mode when the car is locked?
I could be wrong, but I was under the impression that another reason for the CAN bus connection for the trunk had to do with security. For example, if your car is locked someone couldn’t just come up to the car and hit the button on the trunk or activate the foot sensor and have the trunk automatically open.
I imagine if it was just checking for a signal being sent then pressing the outside button on the trunk would generate that signal and if it isn’t actually verified if it’s allowed to open or not without talking to the CAN then it happily opens. I would also have some concerns that while driving something triggers the foot sensor and the trunk actually opens.
 
I could be wrong, but I was under the impression that another reason for the CAN bus connection for the trunk had to do with security. For example, if your car is locked someone couldn’t just come up to the car and hit the button on the trunk or activate the foot sensor and have the trunk automatically open.
I imagine if it was just checking for a signal being sent then pressing the outside button on the trunk would generate that signal and if it isn’t actually verified if it’s allowed to open or not without talking to the CAN then it happily opens. I would also have some concerns that while driving something triggers the foot sensor and the trunk actually opens.

You're right, there is some box somewhere that controls access like that, but it's a lot more basic than that:
  • You have the unlatch 'command' (which would be the trunk button, or the microswitch on the outside of the car door)
  • Then you have the actual signal to actuate the trunk popper/door popper
As long as you only send it commands to 'unlatch' (not actually actuate the trunk popper), then the access control to verify if a key is present is all maintained. No modifications needed. The foot sensor just emulates you hitting the trunk button.

Also, all Tesla's lock out all the buttons (doors, trunk, etc) once the car is past ~5mph, so I don't think you have much risk of accidentally actuating the trunk.
 
Just thought of it, perhaps adjusting the latch might help ease the pressure when opening.

If you pre
Thanks Kirby64 for the confirmation. Its weird because seeing some of the videos (like Tesla Raj), they open pretty smoothly but others (like comraddan) opens pretty fast like mine. Mine appears to be more exaggerated than others from what I observed. I'll keep an eye on it and will post a video if it still bothers me.

You can configure how slow/fast (1-6 speed) you want this to open. I learned this from email with one of the guys at TeslaOffer. When you have the trunk lift gate opened, press and hold the installed close button. You'll hear 1 beep/pause, 2 beep/pause, 3 beep/pause, up to 6 beep/pause (?? can't remember the max). Let go of the button after the beeps stop, then your lift gate should open/close on that speed. Give it a try. I have mine on 5. Hope this helps.
 
Hi, can I know if is possible to configurate the last 25cm final closing to do it more soft . Now is hitting too hard for me, I saw some Teslaoffer users videos the final closing is softer. Many thanks in advance.
 
I could be wrong, but I was under the impression that another reason for the CAN bus connection for the trunk had to do with security. For example, if your car is locked someone couldn’t just come up to the car and hit the button on the trunk or activate the foot sensor and have the trunk automatically open.
I imagine if it was just checking for a signal being sent then pressing the outside button on the trunk would generate that signal and if it isn’t actually verified if it’s allowed to open or not without talking to the CAN then it happily opens. I would also have some concerns that while driving something triggers the foot sensor and the trunk actually opens.

The unlocking of the power trunk still requires my phone's Bluetooth to open the powered trunk.
 
Hmm, my powered trunk unlocks from the car screen or the phone. We must have a different firmware version?

I think you misunderstood me.

My powered trunk unlocks from the car screen or the phone as well.

HOWEVER...I need the Bluetooth from my phone to open the trunk from the car screen. In other words...you can't open the trunk from the screen without unlocking the car via the phone.
 
Be careful with the i1 Tesla modification.

Its cool looking but could be really costly in the long run.

The balls that the struts connect to on the car can't take the closed pressure for long periods of time.

They slip off from time to time. Those red springs put more pressure on those small ball joints than the ball joints can handle.

Its a violent slip that cracked my rear glass. Thankfully I have glass repair on my insurance otherwise I'm out of over $1k to get that rear glass replaced.

Possible solution - Zip tie those struts to the car at the ball joint if you keep the i1 tesla strut from flying off and breaking the rear glass.
I had the same thing happen to me. How did you get your insurance to pay for it. How did you describe the damage to them? Also, did you get the same rear window? I heard they were not using the glass with the full IR treatment.
 
I had the same thing happen to me. How did you get your insurance to pay for it. How did you describe the damage to them? Also, did you get the same rear window? I heard they were not using the glass with the full IR treatment.

yeah....unfortunately its going to start happening more and more - the colder the weather gets.

I just called the insurance company and told them that my rear window is broken. They didn't ask any questions.

I don't know about the full IR window replacement because I didn't have one in the first place. They just replaced my glass with the same glass.
 
So my Tesla Offer power liftgate stopped working yesterday.

Upon troubleshooting today, I found that the power connector socket is shorting (0 ohms across the positive and negative terminals), so the original fuse blew as well as a replacement.

Waiting to hear back from Warren @ Tesla Offer on troubleshooting, if at all possible.
Perhaps my control box is dead? It hasn’t rained in many months here (sadly) so it’s not like water damage could be the culprit..
 
So my Tesla Offer power liftgate stopped working yesterday.

Upon troubleshooting today, I found that the power connector socket is shorting (0 ohms across the positive and negative terminals), so the original fuse blew as well as a replacement.

Waiting to hear back from Warren @ Tesla Offer on troubleshooting, if at all possible.
Perhaps my control box is dead? It hasn’t rained in many months here (sadly) so it’s not like water damage could be the culprit..

@MarcG,

Keep us updated.

Ski
 
What’s Version 2?

Ski
Check out TeslaOffer. They now have modified their power liftgate to enable the ability to close the trunk from the screen inside the car. Plus it is apparently quieter then before.
I spoke to them yesterday and they will be offering an upgrade kit to those with v1 (myself included) however by gaining that functionality to close the trunk from the screen in the car, it looks like you lose the status of the trunk from the screen in the car like you do on the Hansshow kit.
So not sure if I will do the upgrade. I want to know exactly how it works first.
It looks like it has a bit more in common to the Hansshow kit now. You now need to replace the light wiring as you do on the Hansshow however this kit also has a little control box in the lift gate as well as the usual one in the trunk.
One advantage for first time installers is I think is it looks like there are a LOT less wires required to go up into the lift gate through that rubber tubing as opposed to v1 and also Hansshow's kit which is a bit bonus!
 
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