It probably doesn't matter that much, Tesla's current recommendation for LFP is to charge to 100% weekly.
So I would probably just charge to 100% before your 135 mile drive, 2x / week.
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Model 3 SR+ LFP Battery Range, Degradation, etc Discussion
- Thread starter Baluchi
- Start date
So I would probably just charge to 100% before your 135 mile drive, 2x / week.
thebestiam1
Member
30,000 mile (48,000 km) update for my Sep 2021 SR+ LFP. The car is now 12 months old and was originally rated at 253 miles on a full charge. The Tessie app shows a battery capacity of 52.6 kWh (down 3.7% from my original 23 Oct 2021 post of 54.6 kWh), and a max range of 243 miles (down 4.0% from my original range of 253 miles). I've had Tessie since my first day or two or ownership, so this data shows the entire life of the car.
According to the car's screen, I'm now averaging 214 Wh/mi over the life of the car (down from 217 at the 25,000 mile update). Seasonal temps and driving style are HUGE when it comes to the car's efficiency. In the winter I can expect 240+ Wh/mi, and in ideal temps (75-85f) I routinely manage under 200 Wh/mi on my 100 mile roundtrip commute (you can see my summertime average is currently 202 Wh/mi). Assuming I could tap into the current 52.6 kWh battery at my lifetime average 214 Wh/mi efficiency, that gives me a real-world range of 245.7 miles.
My charging is mostly Level 2 from a Grizzl-E set to delivery 24 amps on a 40 amp circuit in my garage. I charge most nights due to a long commute, typically to about 70-80% a few times per week and a 100% once or twice a week. I do fast charge about once per week on average due to a side gig that requires long days of weekend deliveries...the CCS adapter has been a huge improvement for this, greatly expanding my charging options during these deliveries and saving me lots of time in the process.
Tessie says I've spent $830.37 on electricity for the life of the car, while the same driving in my old Ford Focus would've cost $2,939.19 in gasoline. So my fuel costs have been 28% compared to keeping my old car. Assuming the average US emissions of 0.85 pounds CO2 per kWh, the 6,428 kWh used while driving equates to 5,463 pounds of CO2 spent driving my Tesla. If I'd kept my 2012 Ford Focus (37mpg), I would've used 811 gallons of gas to travel these 30,007 miles. At about 19 pounds of CO2 per gallon, that would've been 15,409 pounds of CO2. So I'm spewing 35% of the carbon emissions than I would've released in my efficient little Focus. As the grid moves toward more renewables, that should only get better over the life of the car. Also, my Focus would've had 220,000 miles on it now, so I'd probably be forced to replace it soon anyway.
I'll try to post another update at 35,000 miles. We should be into cold weather by then, so my efficiency will be taking a hit.
According to the car's screen, I'm now averaging 214 Wh/mi over the life of the car (down from 217 at the 25,000 mile update). Seasonal temps and driving style are HUGE when it comes to the car's efficiency. In the winter I can expect 240+ Wh/mi, and in ideal temps (75-85f) I routinely manage under 200 Wh/mi on my 100 mile roundtrip commute (you can see my summertime average is currently 202 Wh/mi). Assuming I could tap into the current 52.6 kWh battery at my lifetime average 214 Wh/mi efficiency, that gives me a real-world range of 245.7 miles.
My charging is mostly Level 2 from a Grizzl-E set to delivery 24 amps on a 40 amp circuit in my garage. I charge most nights due to a long commute, typically to about 70-80% a few times per week and a 100% once or twice a week. I do fast charge about once per week on average due to a side gig that requires long days of weekend deliveries...the CCS adapter has been a huge improvement for this, greatly expanding my charging options during these deliveries and saving me lots of time in the process.
Tessie says I've spent $830.37 on electricity for the life of the car, while the same driving in my old Ford Focus would've cost $2,939.19 in gasoline. So my fuel costs have been 28% compared to keeping my old car. Assuming the average US emissions of 0.85 pounds CO2 per kWh, the 6,428 kWh used while driving equates to 5,463 pounds of CO2 spent driving my Tesla. If I'd kept my 2012 Ford Focus (37mpg), I would've used 811 gallons of gas to travel these 30,007 miles. At about 19 pounds of CO2 per gallon, that would've been 15,409 pounds of CO2. So I'm spewing 35% of the carbon emissions than I would've released in my efficient little Focus. As the grid moves toward more renewables, that should only get better over the life of the car. Also, my Focus would've had 220,000 miles on it now, so I'd probably be forced to replace it soon anyway.
I'll try to post another update at 35,000 miles. We should be into cold weather by then, so my efficiency will be taking a hit.
Thanks for the Tessie chart Baluchi, since I am at 243 for my Sept ‘21 RWD I am going to assume your Tessie chart is pretty much mine as well. It kind of feels like the range loss is plateauing at this point, since it has beeen at 243 for a while now. Watt hours have been kind to me lately too as the day before yesterday I drove 173 miles using 182 miles of range. I have gone just 7500 miles in the past year, maybe all the range loss for us both is calendar loss as opposed to battery stress-related loss?
Agree that the drop in range seems to have stagnated to some degree. Very interesting that you've experienced about the same range loss with so few miles, and really suggests a bulk of the degradation comes from time rather than usage. It'll be interesting to see if that holds true.
xallenx1
2021 LFP SR+ with the 980 motor and rear sway bar
Thanks for the update. I also
own one of the few Sept. LFP that was on the inventory. I'm seeing the same estimated miles.
In my opinion we have pretty special cars, with both the LFP battery and the quicker acceleration.
Pre-conditioning the battery for supercharging/driving is always good. Even though high temperature accelerates calendar degradation with all lithium batteries, LFP likes to be charged and discharged hot. It especially does not like high current at near-freezing temperatures which results in lithium plating. Luckily software manages this for you and will limit supercharging power if the battery is not warm enough (40C!). Preconditioning LFP is good but if you forget it's not big deal either.
If you live somewhere that gets cold, just wait...
Still incredibly efficient though.
LFP batteries have pretty low cyclic degradation, which is why they're used in municipal buses (long shift use every day) and energy storage which have big cycles ever day.
For ordinary personal owners and drivers with LFP batteries, almost all loss, especially at beginning will be calendar losses. There is still a state of charge and temperature effect (both are more detrimental the higher). Although you need to charge to 100% to calibrate the BMS more frequently, high state of charge will still degrade more than lower states of charge.
in2survive
Member
What impresses me the most in my wife’s M3 RWD is the efficiency compared to my MYLR. We both drive mostly in the city, short rides ~5 to 10km, but according to Tessie (same week) it is 77% efficiency on the Y versus 96% on the 3.
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Yeah, the SR+ RWD is amazingly efficient - lighter weight without the extra drag of the front drivetrain results in superb efficiency even compared to the AWD Model 3, but add in even more weight and bigger frontal area of the Model Y and larger wheels/tires (more aerodynamic drag and rolling resistance) and you get to the ~25% reduction in energy consumption for a given distance.
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