The Drive article is here. Another funny quote made me update the shirt with The Drive quote on the back.
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I put the regen on 'Low', instead of 'Standard' because I wanted to initially lower the possibility of power unit heating issues. My intent was to try 'Standard' later in the day, if 'Low' regen worked. However, I went in thinking this whole thing wasn't going to get past two laps anyway. So, I was initially happily surprised that I didn't experience thermal limiting on the power unit under 'Low' regen setting. When the brakes wore out, then the day was over, so I didn't have another opportunity to test 'Standard'. Obviously more testing is needed and we don't know if higher ambient temperature and/or 'Standard' regen will ultimately power limit the system. Finding out will be fun!
DragTimes dyno'ed the Model 3 and got 327 HP to the wheels.Higher ambient temperature will be interesting, especially since the temperature differential in an EV isn't as high, as on an ICE. So a higher ambient temperature should have an increased impact.
Will be interesting to see how the performance version will be on a track, let's hope Tesla will increase the cooling to match the increased power. Could be a really good track car with 500hp.
My second hand experience with antique Porsche 911 autocross cars is that drilled rotors cause cooler brakes, longer pad life, better brake feel, less dust accumulation. High performance German cars have had drilled rotors for circa 2 decades, so I would not expect much problem with them despite the significantly higher expense to manufacture.There are safety regulations that make it more and more difficult to allow the operator to fully disable these systems. So it's unlikely as time goes on that stability control will be able to be disabled. It's more likely that we'll start to see control profiles that are more suited to aggressive driving and making lap times faster.
So far, it doesn't seem that the Model 3 needs a larger radiator since the PMAC motor by its very nature runs significantly cooler than an AC induction motor. Larger rotors might require larger wheels depending on how tight things are with the 19" option, but I agree a more aggressive brake kit would be good. As well as a more adjustable regen.
I hope @arnis never stops digging. After all, he's got a race track on his continent, everybody! That makes him a pro for sure. The old "drilled and slotted rotors are weaker", even though the only ones I've ever seen fail have been extremely cheap. And the "Manufacturer A has feature B. Why doesn't Tesla. LUUUUULZ". That's a classic. The tire rant was a gem of a read. It's like someone that just realized there's more to a tire than a partial torus of rubber, but didn't quite understand what it all meant.
As for the person claiming to have done many tens of thousands of miles on their stock pads, then tracked it four times. The only way I believe that is if they were glazed and offering terrible stopping power but lots of heat. But that's still beside the point, since different pads are chosen for different applications and different situations. Expecting a stock pad to work on a race track, regardless of how many may have, is an idiotic idea. You can take any car you want to any track you like with whatever pads you choose. Nobody at the track is going to stop you. But the walls might. Personally, I've spent the money for a StopTech upgrade with stainless lines, Motul fluids, and Hawk street performance pads. I would not expect those pads to last more than a day at the track and still be useful to my daily driving. And since they're a consumable part, I wouldn't be butthurt about it either. It's a cost of tracking a car in my opinion.
Anyway, @arnis, you keep doing you! You're doing a great job trolling, and some day you'll make it to the big leagues. I have faith in you.
There are safety regulations that make it more and more difficult to allow the operator to fully disable these systems. So it's unlikely as time goes on that stability control will be able to be disabled. It's more likely that we'll start to see control profiles that are more suited to aggressive driving and making lap times faster.
So far, it doesn't seem that the Model 3 needs a larger radiator since the PMAC motor by its very nature runs significantly cooler than an AC induction motor. Larger rotors might require larger wheels depending on how tight things are with the 19" option, but I agree a more aggressive brake kit would be good. As well as a more adjustable regen.
How different is racing from towing a trailer on a long curvy downgrade regarding brake load?If you find better (i.e., longer lasting, less brake dust, just as good if not better at stopping) pads, please let us know. Having them give out after only 4 hot laps seems a little weak.
Battery charging braking will stop if down hill energy exceeds battery capacity, much more load on brakes!How different is racing from towing a trailer on a long curvy downgrade regarding brake load?
I know nothing about brake ventilation. How does the ventilation compare to an ICE vehicle?Posted a video of the brake pads/rotors/pistons, here.
Model 3 is getting towed to the Tesla service center tomorrow. I let Tesla know about the track day and shared the details, so they know as much as possible before I drop it off.
Changing pad compound isn't going to change the amount of heat generated.
Posted a video of the brake pads/rotors/pistons, here.
Model 3 is getting towed to the Tesla service center tomorrow. I let Tesla know about the track day and shared the details, so they know as much as possible before I drop it off.
In the video, I see a jack stand under the steering knuckle that may be keeping the spring partially compressed.With the car jacked up like it is, and the spring extended as much as it would ever be
In the video, I see a jack stand under the steering knuckle that may be keeping the spring partially compressed.
You are very welcome!I agree with sreams, and have had a similar experience with a pad compound (at Buttonwillow, not LS) going from near new to gone in one day. Although Laguna is pretty hard on brakes, and the 3 is a fairly heavy car, the fact that this happened in one SESSION clearly shows that in the "pad compound compromise decision" Tesla clearly emphasized initial cold bite, quiet, and low dust over any performance metric. This makes sense when you consider how 99% of buyers will use the car, and how much regen braking lowers pad wear. However, this is also VERY informational for anyone who wants to try tracking the car that switching from the stock pads is a MUST, probably even if it's your first track day.
Thanks for being the guinea pig mattcrowley!
This one is tough, since I had the jack still holding some pressure (under the jack mount location), and the wheel/tire (under the car for added safety) holding some pressure of the car...while the jack stand was under the lower suspension arm. So...don't read too much into this compression, since the spring wasn't holding the entire load of the car.From your video... I see a potential issue with those Unplugged Performance springs. With the car jacked up like it is, and the spring extended as much as it would ever be, all of the tighter coils are completely collapsed. That would suggest that the softer rate of the spring does nothing at all, and that it is always acting on the increased rate coils.
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Yep. If I had prizes to give out...you won!In the video, I see a jack stand under the steering knuckle that may be keeping the spring partially compressed.
This one is tough, since I had the jack still holding some pressure (under the jack mount location), and the wheel/tire (under the car for added safety) holding some pressure of the car...while the jack stand was under the lower suspension arm. So...don't read too much into this compression, since the spring wasn't holding the entire load of the car.