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Model 3 wheel studs

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Does anyone know the dimensions of the original wheel studs used in the Model 3 wheel hubs? I need these dimensions:
zMTYGk5.png

1 - Length under head
2 - Knurl length
3 - Knurl diameter

I want to replace the original wheel studs with extended ones so I have some more options with spacers that I want to use with both my aftermarket wheels and the aero wheels. Before anyone asks: no, I couldn't change the offset on the aftermarket wheels. ;) I need somewhere between 7-10mm on the front to have it flush with the fender and this just isn't possible with the original wheel studs. But yeah.. to replace them I first need to know the dimensions. Figured I'd ask here first before knocking one out of the hub to measure it myself. Can't find any info on these in the service manual or parts catalog unfortunately.

Are the Model 3 wheel studs perhaps the same as the Model S wheel studs? Because I did find dimensions for those.
 
Does anyone know the dimensions of the original wheel studs used in the Model 3 wheel hubs? I need these dimensions:
zMTYGk5.png

1 - Length under head
2 - Knurl length
3 - Knurl diameter

I want to replace the original wheel studs with extended ones so I have some more options with spacers that I want to use with both my aftermarket wheels and the aero wheels. Before anyone asks: no, I couldn't change the offset on the aftermarket wheels. ;) I need somewhere between 7-10mm on the front to have it flush with the fender and this just isn't possible with the original wheel studs. But yeah.. to replace them I first need to know the dimensions. Figured I'd ask here first before knocking one out of the hub to measure it myself. Can't find any info on these in the service manual or parts catalog unfortunately.

Are the Model 3 wheel studs perhaps the same as the Model S wheel studs? Because I did find dimensions for those.
You don't need to extend the studs if you get proper spacers.There are videos on YouTube about this.
 
  • Disagree
Reactions: FlyNavy01
You don't need to extend the studs if you get proper spacers.There are videos on YouTube about this.
You will need longer wheel studs, especially on the performance models. If the spacer is greater than 5mm but 15mm or less on the performance model, you are “in-between”.

If you attempt to use the factory studs and standard spacer, there is not enough thread engagement to be safe.

If you attempt to use a spacer where they add additional studs to the spacer and you first bolt the spacer onto the hub, then the factory studs will stick out of the spacer (spacer <= 15mm) and will make contact with the wheel lip unless that wheel lip has a sufficient enough cavity. The factory wheels do not.

Since @Firehuntah needs 7-10, he falls into this void (as do I).
 
+1. Are you planning on just removing the hub and bringing it to a local shop that has a press?

Yes I'll be removing the hubs and I plan on doing it myself. Don't really need a press. A big hammer or a strong and big enough vise should do the job just fine I think. :) Many videos on YouTube of people just hammering them out and using an impact wrench to get the new ones in. So it shouldn't be too difficult. I'm just not going to use an impact wrench as that may damage the new threads. I do have a press at my workplace though so if I don't succeed I can still use that. ;)
It's still easy now since the car is still rather new. Once those hubs get some rust on them it'll be much more difficult to do.

You don't need to extend the studs if you get proper spacers.There are videos on YouTube about this.

You do know there are more types of proper spacers right? I know almost everyone here is using the spacers with the extra studs pressed in and they're definately good and safe to use. But I'd like to go the other way and just use spacers that can go on the hub's studs. Only 1 set of lug nuts this way and easier to switch between different sizes for summer and winter set. And ofcourse the other reason which @jmaddr already pointed out.

I've measured them before, the measurements below might be off by +/- 1mm due to measuring them while still on the hub.

1. Length under head: 46mm
2. Knurl length: 16mm
3. Knurl OD: 15.7mm

They seem to be the same dimensions as Model S.

Thank you! That's exactly what I was looking for. :) That indeed seems to be the same as the Model S studs. Now to look for extended ones. :) ARP unfortunately doesn't offer them in this size.
 
I have the exact same issue, i am TeslaDIY on youtube, i posted about using bloxsport spacers, but now with my BBS, there are no cutout on the back of the BBS so any thinner spacer adapters will allow stock studs to poke thru and without the cutout on the back of the wheels, it won't clear.

I spoke with MPP, i was told to use ARP studs for Cameros and Mustangs. I have not confirm about this tho
 
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Reactions: Firehuntah
I have the exact same issue, i am TeslaDIY on youtube, i posted about using bloxsport spacers, but now with my BBS, there are no cutout on the back of the BBS so any thinner spacer adapters will allow stock studs to poke thru and without the cutout on the back of the wheels, it won't clear.

I spoke with MPP, i was told to use ARP studs for Cameros and Mustangs. I have not confirm about this tho

My research came to the same conclusion. Late model Camero and Mustang would work, both have 14Mx1.5 lugs.
 
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Reactions: Firehuntah
Here is another thread on this topic

Lug Stud Replacements

Don't know why I couldn't find that thread, definately searched for it. :p Thanks! Some more info in there.

Edit: I actually did find that thread, just didn't see the new posts in there yet. :) Nice to read them now.


I decided to order these Dorman lug studs, thanks to a tip from @nixnexus who used them on a Tesla Model S (same dimensions).
Dorman Products - 610-490
I ordered them on Amazon, too expensive everywhere else I found them.

They might be a bit too long on the front but I can always cut them a little bit if necessary. Think it's fine for the rear though. Still not sure what spacers I'll be running with them. Will have the car lowered a bit in a few days so I'll have to measure after that. Probably 10mm front 18mm rear. Maybe few mm more, depends how much the wheels move in after it's lowered (about 20mm lower, a subtle one).

ARP doesn't have studs available with the right dimensions, the Camaro and Mustang ones are a little bit thicker (0.625" vs 0.618"). ARP told me it could damage/break the wheel hubs without drilling the holes a bit larger so I didn't order those. It's not a big difference but still.. I didn't want to take the risk and I don't want to drill those wheel hubs.
 
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  • Funny
Reactions: beastmode13
Don't know why I couldn't find that thread, definately searched for it. :p Thanks! Some more info in there.

Edit: I actually did find that thread, just didn't see the new posts in there yet. :) Nice to read them now.


I decided to order these Dorman lug studs, thanks to a tip from @nixnexus who used them on a Tesla Model S (same dimensions).
Dorman Products - 610-490
I ordered them on Amazon, too expensive everywhere else I found them.

They might be a bit too long on the front but I can always cut them a little bit if necessary. Think it's fine for the rear though. Still not sure what spacers I'll be running with them. Will have the car lowered a bit in a few days so I'll have to measure after that. Probably 10mm front 18mm rear. Maybe few mm more, depends how much the wheels move in after it's lowered (about 20mm lower, a subtle one).

ARP doesn't have studs available with the right dimensions, the Camaro and Mustang ones are a little bit thicker (0.625" vs 0.618"). ARP told me it could damage/break the wheel hubs without drilling the holes a bit larger so I didn't order those. It's not a big difference but still.. I didn't want to take the risk and I don't want to drill those wheel hubs.

.625” is the standard size. .618” is measure from a used stud, which has the knurlings compressed from installation.
 
.625” is the standard size. .618” is measure from a used stud, which has the knurlings compressed from installation.

I don't know about that. These studs specifically made for the Model S have that 15.7mm/0.618" knurl diameter as well.
M14-1.5 x 52mm Knurled Wheel Stud, Tesla Model S

@FlyNavy01 measured on the hub instead of a removed stud I believe and that was 15.7mm/0.618" also.

But like I said it's not a big difference so it probably won't matter much. I just don't want to risk it myself after what ARP told me. ;)
 
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I don't know about that. These studs specifically made for the Model S have that 15.7mm/0.618" knurl diameter as well.
M14-1.5 x 52mm Knurled Wheel Stud, Tesla Model S

@FlyNavy01 measured on the hub instead of a removed stud I believe and that was 15.7mm/0.618" also.

But like I said it's not a big difference so it probably won't matter much. I just don't want to risk it myself after what ARP told me. ;)

Hub holes supposed to be smaller than the stud. That’s how press-fitted parts works. 0.007” is all that’s needed for it to work.

Anyhow. I’m sure both Dorman and ARP will work just fine.
 
Hub holes supposed to be smaller than the stud. That’s how press-fitted parts works. 0.007” is all that’s needed for it to work.

Anyhow. I’m sure both Dorman and ARP will work just fine.

True, then I don't know how it was measured on his Model 3. ;) But yeah, both should be fine I think.

I'll receive the Dorman ones in about 10 days, I'll post an update here once I find some time to install them after that.
 
Took a while but during Easter I finally got around to installing the Dorman 610-490 wheel studs on my Model 3. :) Unfortunately forgot about your thread @beastmode13, so I didn't see your info there of you installing them. Would've probably helped a bit but yeah.. ;)

Anyway I managed to do it just fine. Did have a few issues, but only one that couldn't be fixed and it wasn't anything on my Model 3 so that's good I guess. :D

This is pretty much my last picture with the old studs. Had everything removed up untill the hub. They really look tiny compared to the Dorman extended ones. I removed the hubs to replace them, decided it was better not to use a hammer on them. Not much place to put the new ones in without removing the hub anyway.

OEl2FG0.jpg


The new studs installed on both the rear and front hubs.

j7QrUtn.jpg


rCpolCi.jpg


This is how I pressed them out and in the front hubs, with an hydraulic press. Really easy that way. Wish I had done the rear hubs this way as well.

VJPm5ID.jpg


JWZxp0x.jpg


I just couldn't get them perfectly straight in the hub with the press. So I still had to use some M14 rings and an old wheel nut and tighten that on each of the wheels tuds to get them to straighten out completely. I guess a stud installer tool might be a little bit better and easier here.

As for those rear hubs, I highly underestimated how much force was needed to press the new wheel studs in. Thought I could do it with a vice. I have (or should say had) a really big and strong vice that I've been able to use to press things in and out very often. But these wheel studs were just a little bit too much. So warning to everyone attempting this with a vice, DON'T! Do NOT use a vice for this! Because it'll look like this afterwards.

8Nv73g7.jpg


Anyway, I'm happy they're all in. And happy my friend and colleague had a press that I could use after my vice broke. I also made a how-to video out of all this to hopefully help others who want to replace the wheel studs on their Model 3's. :)


@Lipham You wanted some more info, here it is. ;)