Model 3 wheel studs

[Firehuntah]

@Firehuntah...THANK YOU. That video is why we have this forum. I learned a bunch. I can only hope I can contrite as much someday.

Nice to see the video is already helpful to some. That's why it's indeed always a good thing to share info on forums. You take some and you give some, everyone's happy. I've also learned a lot of things myself through forums.


Something I forgot to mention in this thread but did mention in the other lug stud replacement thread. Some Model 3's seem to have different length wheel studs. I'm assuming European Model 3's as I've seen no one mention any issues so far with the American Model 3's. On my European Model 3 the stock wheel studs were 1.5 mm longer than what someone else measured on their American Model 3. Be aware of this when looking for spacers to use. On my 1.5 mm longer wheel studs I couldn't use the Bloxsport 15 mm bolt on spacers (very popular on this forum) in combination with the aero wheels. This while almost every American Model 3 with spacers is actually using that same exact 15 mm one, at least for the front wheels. So if you want to use 15 mm bolt on spacers with the Aero wheels, first measure your studs to see if it's possible. Do you measure 26.5 mm (brake disc to end point of stud)? Then you can't use them. If you measure ~25 mm or a little bit less then you're good to use them. With other wheels you just have to measure that hollow space inside of the wheel to see if there's enough space for the studs to go into.

 

[beastmode13]

Get a stud installer tool will make life easier, newly installed studs will come up straight. Lisle 22800 is what I used.

https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-2280...bd+wheel+stud+installer&qid=1586976696&sr=8-1

 

[Firehuntah]

Get a stud installer tool will make life easier, newly installed studs will come up straight. Lisle 22800 is what I used.

https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-2280...bd+wheel+stud+installer&qid=1586976696&sr=8-1

Yep, that would've made replacing the studs a whole lot easier I think. I actually did see that product before but thought I could do without and save the money. Now I need a new vice which is actually more expensive than that tool. Ah well, that's how you can learn the hard way.

 

[Lipham]

@Firehuntah Thanks for this! Turns out my second set of wheels for AutoX will be stock as well, so I won't need to swap out studs at this point. Truly appreciate you taking the time to provide us guidance on this process in case it's needed in the future!

 

[SM3P]

Yep, that would've made replacing the studs a whole lot easier I think. I actually did see that product before but thought I could do without and save the money. Now I need a new vice which is actually more expensive than that tool. Ah well, that's how you can learn the hard way.

Nice to see the video is already helpful to some. That's why it's indeed always a good thing to share info on forums. You take some and you give some, everyone's happy. I've also learned a lot of things myself through forums.


Something I forgot to mention in this thread but did mention in the other lug stud replacement thread. Some Model 3's seem to have different length wheel studs. I'm assuming European Model 3's as I've seen no one mention any issues so far with the American Model 3's. On my European Model 3 the stock wheel studs were 1.5 mm longer than what someone else measured on their American Model 3. Be aware of this when looking for spacers to use. On my 1.5 mm longer wheel studs I couldn't use the Bloxsport 15 mm bolt on spacers (very popular on this forum) in combination with the aero wheels. This while almost every American Model 3 with spacers is actually using that same exact 15 mm one, at least for the front wheels. So if you want to use 15 mm bolt on spacers with the Aero wheels, first measure your studs to see if it's possible. Do you measure 26.5 mm (brake disc to end point of stud)? Then you can't use them. If you measure ~25 mm or a little bit less then you're good to use them. With other wheels you just have to measure that hollow space inside of the wheel to see if there's enough space for the studs to go into.

I'm really confused now. . . are the wheel studs from a Model S compatible with a Tesla Model 3 Performance (European model) or not?

I want to replace the standard wheel studs from my Model 3 Performance to titanium wheel studs, which are intended for the Model S . . .

My Model 3 have the standard 20 inch performance rims are in Gunmetal.

 

[Firehuntah]

I'm really confused now. . . are the wheel studs from a Model S compatible with a Tesla Model 3 Performance (European model) or not?

I want to replace the standard wheel studs from my Model 3 Performance to titanium wheel studs, which are intended for the Model S . . .

My Model 3 have the standard 20 inch performance rims are in Gunmetal.

Yes, pretty much. They're the same diameter (both knurl and thread). Only the stock Model S wheel studs are longer than the stock Model 3 wheel studs. But for aftermarket wheel studs that really doesn't matter, can use for both Model S and 3. Just have to make sure that the length is sufficient. But the stock ones on the Model 3 are pretty short, aftermarket ones are usually a bit longer so probably won't have to worry about that.

Is it these that you want to order?
M14-1.5 x 52mm Knurled Wheel Stud, Tesla Model S

The only issue I see with these is that the knurl length is actually 2 mm longer than on the stock Model 3 wheel studs. And with the Model 3 Performance having a thinner brake disc I believe the stock wheel studs already have that knurl poke outside of the brake disc slightly. With the 2 mm of extra knurl however you might have an issue getting the wheels to fit. Remember, the knurl is actually bigger in diameter than the thread of the wheel stud. So it might be possible that the holes in your wheels (for the wheel nuts) won't fit over that knurl if it will really stick out too far.

But why go for titanium wheel studs? I understand weight saving is a thing with these, but if you're still running the stock wheels that are pretty heavy then it doesn't make sense really. You'd reduce weight a lot more by switching to different wheels. Replacing wheel studs for weight saving should be last on the list in my opinion, there's not really that much to be gained with them.

 

[Mash]

I tried to install studs recently and found out that rear studs are different from front ones. If I install rear ones it touches hub rubber seal and eventually going to destroy it. Stock studs have a cut on the head to prevent that. And you have to properly align that cut to the seal to make it work.

I wonder why nobody mentioned that?
Do we have different hubs?

In EPC AWD has the same hub front/rear "HUB ASSY, DRIVEN 1044121-00-E". But it's obviously not the same on my car...

 

[SM3P]

Yes, pretty much. They're the same diameter (both knurl and thread). Only the stock Model S wheel studs are longer than the stock Model 3 wheel studs. But for aftermarket wheel studs that really doesn't matter, can use for both Model S and 3. Just have to make sure that the length is sufficient. But the stock ones on the Model 3 are pretty short, aftermarket ones are usually a bit longer so probably won't have to worry about that.

Is it these that you want to order?
M14-1.5 x 52mm Knurled Wheel Stud, Tesla Model S

The only issue I see with these is that the knurl length is actually 2 mm longer than on the stock Model 3 wheel studs. And with the Model 3 Performance having a thinner brake disc I believe the stock wheel studs already have that knurl poke outside of the brake disc slightly. With the 2 mm of extra knurl however you might have an issue getting the wheels to fit. Remember, the knurl is actually bigger in diameter than the thread of the wheel stud. So it might be possible that the holes in your wheels (for the wheel nuts) won't fit over that knurl if it will really stick out too far.

But why go for titanium wheel studs? I understand weight saving is a thing with these, but if you're still running the stock wheels that are pretty heavy then it doesn't make sense really. You'd reduce weight a lot more by switching to different wheels. Replacing wheel studs for weight saving should be last on the list in my opinion, there's not really that much to be gained with them.

Yes! That are the right one i will buy!

That's right, what you said . . . but this Stock wheels and tires are for the Winter! For the Summer i have 21 Inch ADV.1 Lightweight Custom wheels and i've installed RB Performance Lightweight Brakes. I've bought Titanium wheel lugs and Last but not least i will change the wheel studs into this one you have listed . . .

 

[SM3P]

. . . i mean 21 inch ADV.1 Competition Spec Wheels . . .

 

[Firehuntah]

I tried to install studs recently and found out that rear studs are different from front ones. If I install rear ones it touches hub rubber seal and eventually going to destroy it. Stock studs have a cut on the head to prevent that. And you have to properly align that cut to the seal to make it work.

I wonder why nobody mentioned that?
Do we have different hubs?

In EPC AWD has the same hub front/rear "HUB ASSY, DRIVEN 1044121-00-E". But it's obviously not the same on my car...

There was no difference in the hubs on my Model 3, except for the rear ones having the axle openings (RWD). Had no issues using studs without that cutout. The stock studs on my Model 3 also don't have any cutout.

So yeah.. apparently there are different hubs being used then. Maybe different ones for the Performance version? But if the EPC doesn't show any difference then it's a bit weird indeed. Ofcourse its always possible to cut out a part of the stud heads yourself, bit more work though but no other choice I guess.

Yes! That are the right one i will buy!

That's right, what you said . . . but this Stock wheels and tires are for the Winter! For the Summer i have 21 Inch ADV.1 Competition Spec Wheels and i've installed RB Performance Lightweight Brakes. I've bought Titanium wheel lugs and Last but not least i will change the wheel studs into this one you have listed . . .

Ah ok, then it makes more sense at least. But like I said, I'm not 100% sure the ones in that link will work with the Model 3 Performance because of the knurl being a bit longer than stock, this in combination with the thinner brake disc might be an issue. So be careful with that, don't want you to order studs that might not work.

 

[Culby4122]

Can you use 5mm spacers safely without extending the studs?

 

[gearchruncher]

5mm is generally considered OK without longer studs, but nothing more.

 

[Mash]

You need all nut threads to be engaged on the stud. If you have less than 5mm of stud thread sticking out if nut, the answer is - you can, but you risk losing your wheel.

 

[jimsslee]

Now, you need titanium lug nuts to reduce the unsprung weight.

 

[jimsslee]

wow... the picture came out way too big... Sorry guys

 

[canasion35]

Anybody have a link to replace the stock studs on a LR?

 

[Firehuntah]

Anybody have a link to replace the stock studs on a LR?

Dorman 610-490 can be used if you want longer ones than OEM:

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-610-490-M14-1-5-Serrated-Wheel/dp/B001UC721W

Another option is these titanium ones if you're looking for same length as OEM:

Ti64 grade 5 titanium M14-1.5 x 46mm Knurled Wheel Stud, Tesla Model 3

Our Ti64 M14-1.5 x 46mm Knurled Wheel Stud, Tesla Model 3 is engineered from Grade 5 titanium to be lightweight & corrosion resistant for high performance automotive and marine racing applications.

www.ti64.com

Or you could wait untill @MountainPass starts offering them, they'll have them up soon I think. Though not quite sure when exactly, maybe they can answer that here. They will be much better quality than the Dorman ones though there aren't much details just yet. I might switch to them as well as my Dorman ones have a little bit of wear already.

 

[canasion35]

Dorman 610-490 can be used if you want longer ones than OEM:

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-610-490-M14-1-5-Serrated-Wheel/dp/B001UC721W

Another option is these titanium ones if you're looking for same length as OEM:

Ti64 grade 5 titanium M14-1.5 x 46mm Knurled Wheel Stud, Tesla Model 3

Our Ti64 M14-1.5 x 46mm Knurled Wheel Stud, Tesla Model 3 is engineered from Grade 5 titanium to be lightweight & corrosion resistant for high performance automotive and marine racing applications.

www.ti64.com

Or you could wait untill @MountainPass starts offering them, they'll have them up soon I think. Though not quite sure when exactly, maybe they can answer that here. They will be much better quality than the Dorman ones though there aren't much details just yet. I might switch to them as well as my Dorman ones have a little bit of wear already.

Shoot - I suppose I’ll wait for them to release them (or I can be a beta tester) since I only have 3 lugs securing my wheel while the other two are STUCK on there.

 

[Firehuntah]

Shoot - I suppose I’ll wait for them to release them (or I can be a beta tester) since I only have 3 lugs securing my wheel while the other two are STUCK on there.

Not really safe to drive like that though, with only 3 lugs securing the wheel. If all you're looking for is replacing the studs with same length as OEM then it might just be best to get a whole new wheel hub from Tesla. Their studs can't be bought seperately unfortunately. Both the Dorman and MPP ones are longer than OEM. Unless you plan on using spacers I wouldn't recommend going with longer studs.

 

[canasion35]

Not really safe to drive like that though, with only 3 lugs securing the wheel. If all you're looking for is replacing the studs with same length as OEM then it might just be best to get a whole new wheel hub from Tesla. Their studs can't be bought seperately unfortunately. Both the Dorman and MPP ones are longer than OEM. Unless you plan on using spacers I wouldn't recommend going with longer studs.

No way…that’s wild there isn’t any offerings that match the OEM length. I suppose it isn’t really an issue to go longer on those two since I have pretty long lugs that are open ended too.