Model S from US (now in Ukraine) does not start

[snagmv]

The MODEL S P85D 2014/12 (Intel) car was bought in the USA, came to me after 6 months of idleness and does not run. The first thing I did was replace the bad ground contacts under the front hood, and check if there is any antifreeze in the rear engine. The 12v battery charger shows 100% vital activity. I am attaching a photo of the errors. It is important to say that the pneumo is not working, the antifreeze pumps are also not working. The car is from NEW Jersey, so there are many traces of corrosion and oxidation. Please help, what to do next.

 

[dsm363]

Tesla or maybe Gruber motors are only options I think unless you know how to repair it.

 

[GHammer]

Tesla or maybe Gruber motors are only options I think unless you know how to repair it.

Neither of those are going to help much in Ukraine.

 

[sorka]

Rodents.

 

[GHammer]

Have you seen this thread?

What is the problem with error BMS_f036?

2018 Mode X 75D has 3 error codes BMS_w036_HVIl BMS_f036_HVIl BMS_w125_HW_BMS_Bind_Mate Measure the HVIL resistance at 180Ω, BMS HVIL has no voltage. After removing the BMS, power up repeatedly to measure the OUTPUT of BMS HVIL. There is no voltage, is this normal? What is the normal voltage...

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[snagmv]

Thank you. I will measure the resistance tomorrow, maybe I'll be lucky and it's not the rear drive. I hope more that there is no Hvil contact, because when I connect the battery and check, I don't hear the contacts clicking...

 

[dsm363]

Neither of those are going to help much in Ukraine.

Ah. Didn't see that I saw New Jersey in the post.

Yeah, I think he's going to have to find a way to fix it himself.

 

[danielk04]

Can you please tell us how much you paid for that fine New Jersey Model S? After that, remove your high voltage pack, open it up, and do a thorough pack inspection. You have tons of help available to you in Ukraine.

 

[snagmv]

I disassembled the junction box and found traces of moisture in it, I am attaching a photo, the fuses are all intact, probably for replacement... I bought the car slightly damaged for 8200. I know that there are many specialists in Ukraine, but I have not yet contacted anyone.

 

[snagmv]

Here is a photo

 

[danielk04]

When you say 8200, am I correct in thinking 8200 U.S. dollars? If so, interesting, not very expensive including shipping.
I see your car came from Atlantic City, New Jersey, a lovely salty wet environment.
Your first photo shows "grayed out" battery modules. My educated guess would be a "no com" condition to most of the modules. Is that the case?
While you're in the high voltage junction box, you could address one of your lesser problems, "Fast charge contactors welded."
Inspection time..........drop that pack!

 

[snagmv]

No, this is purely the cost of the car, but logistics and various payments are still about $4,000, once it was cheaper, due to the fact that the Black Sea is blocked, delivery through Poland. There was water in this block, I disassembled it, there is a smaller board and it is closed, I ordered a junction box for $120, I will deliver it on Monday, I hope that it does not need to be registered (hemmed) to the car. I think that the car had problems with the panorama, water was leaking, the front seats are also not working... Although everything is dry now. Chips under the hood without oxidation.

 

[snagmv]

Please tell me, I measured the resistance of the wires that go to the Rapid mate from the rear Junction box and they are one 4.5Momh, and the other 1.5Momh. Remove the battery and measure the resistance of the battery and the connector itself for oxidation? And maybe someone knows the wires that go to the front motor from the rear junction box, have a resistance of 45mohm and 15 Mohm (there is a fuse here), is this normal?

 

[snagmv]

 

[brainhouston]

Your first photo shows "grayed out" battery modules. My educated guess would be a "no com" condition to most of the modules. Is that the case?

ur 'educated' guess failed
that display is misleading, its just a charge level with pack as a picture, full charge will have green all the way to the top

Зараз такі помилки є

u have external isolation
ck ur LDU, could have coolant in it...
next would be battery heater
those 2 are common causes...
but since u found water in junction box then could be anything i guess...

 

[snagmv]

I checked the front consumers and the rear engine with a megameter, everything is ok. Removed the engine speed sensor, it is dry. But for some reason, in the service mode, I cannot see the total resistance of the car

 

[snagmv]

Help, after clearing the Rapid Mate contacts, the following errors popped up. I can't find the value of the error bms f149 anywhere?

 

[Gtech]

View attachment 1017879Help, after clearing the Rapid Mate contacts, the following errors popped up. I can't find the value of the error bms f149 anywhere?

BMS_f149_SW_precharge_too_short
The Battery Management System (BMS) detected that the length of time it took the vehicle to precharge was too short. During the precharge sequence when the BMS is closing the contactors, the time it takes to reach target precharge voltage is too short. If the DC link voltage rise does not match a time constant with a 35% tolerance, then a precharge fault shall be asserted and precharge will be aborted.

The precharge being too short means that the voltage on the DC Link bus (vehicle side of contactors) rose faster than expected, similar to how if there was not enough capacitance on the bus.

---

Btw it's interesting you get both precharge too long and too short errors at same time

 

[snagmv]

I removed the battery, after the contact of the cleaner, the Rapid mate mother rotted, I ordered new mother + father elements, I will supply them and write back... Black battery contactors of the 2nd generation, I don't know how to check, I confess that they are good...

 

[snagmv]

When the battery was connected to these rotten contactors, from the side of the junction box, there were 36mOhm on the wires