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Model S Refresh Mud/Splash Guards
- Thread starter DJ-3
- Start date
Just based on the pic they look pretty big, I'll see what I can do with mine. I don't care about full width coverage of the tire, just protecting the paintwork
Bumping this post in the hopes that someone in the area can accommodate them. They are located in Springville UT and would need the car for one full day (drop it off in the morning and get it back that evening. Properly fitted flaps coming soon after that.
Contact Eli at [email protected]
WilliamG
Hinge Fanatic
MFrunkerOG
Active Member
There's gotta be a refresh S owner somewhere in either Salt Lake County or Utah County that could do this.
I'm 275 miles away from Rokblokz, although if I did have my car, I would certainly be up for using this as an excuse for a wee bit of a road trip.
I'll see if I can find a "Utah Tesla Owners" thread here and put up a post about this.
Edit: Done!
Utah: Are You a 2021 Refresh S Owner?
I'm 275 miles away from Rokblokz, although if I did have my car, I would certainly be up for using this as an excuse for a wee bit of a road trip.
I'll see if I can find a "Utah Tesla Owners" thread here and put up a post about this.
Edit: Done!
Utah: Are You a 2021 Refresh S Owner?
Last edited:
MFrunkerOG
Active Member
MFrunkerOG
Active Member
jebinc
Well-Known Member
Low volume production vehicle means few will invest capital, as payback period would be too long (not a good investment). Model 3 and Y assessors hit the market in a reasonable period as there was "money to be made," due to delivery volumes.
scrapps
Member
Unfortunately after my buying experience with EBay I've realized there's not a whole lot of incentives for these Chinese vendors on Ebay to market their products correctly. The 2021 S mudflaps I bought clearly don't fit and I have to pay $40 to ship them back to China, so I can maybe get a refund. Bleh
M4H4X
Member
Alright the ABS stock has arrived:
Going to experiment with .06” and .125” thicknesses. (Most ABS/Urethane flaps are either .06” or .08”, rubber is generally thicker.)
So today she went up in the air so I could do some templating:
I came up with this shape that will reuse two of the factory nylon fasteners and only require 1 additional fastener, but it will be in the liner and not the fender.
The shape has a few small thermoformed angles in it that will allow it to sit flush on the fender (with some 3M) and reach the inner liner…
I translated the template into Fusion 360 and created some specs one can use to recreate the work so far…
For reference, here is this design next to the universal flaps:
It’s pretty close: however, this design mirrors the width of the tire and can mount a little lower to provide a little more protection.
My next post should show the completed product as well as steps to get there from the ABS sheets including how to mold it to fit the fender.
Going to experiment with .06” and .125” thicknesses. (Most ABS/Urethane flaps are either .06” or .08”, rubber is generally thicker.)
So today she went up in the air so I could do some templating:
I came up with this shape that will reuse two of the factory nylon fasteners and only require 1 additional fastener, but it will be in the liner and not the fender.
The shape has a few small thermoformed angles in it that will allow it to sit flush on the fender (with some 3M) and reach the inner liner…
I translated the template into Fusion 360 and created some specs one can use to recreate the work so far…
For reference, here is this design next to the universal flaps:
It’s pretty close: however, this design mirrors the width of the tire and can mount a little lower to provide a little more protection.
My next post should show the completed product as well as steps to get there from the ABS sheets including how to mold it to fit the fender.
M4H4X
Member
Today I cut the first test set out of .06 ABS. Thermoforming proved challenging without a heat rod (first try with it), but I believe I produced generally usable results.
The purpose of the curve for meeting the liner without stressing the material seen here (apologies for the dirt):
I did not put them on the car yet as I want to experiment with the thicker stock next.
I think in the end I will end up using this thickness because in the event that you run over a curb and hit the flap, I would rather the flap break and shatter than have it cause damage to the car.
The purpose of the curve for meeting the liner without stressing the material seen here (apologies for the dirt):
I did not put them on the car yet as I want to experiment with the thicker stock next.
I think in the end I will end up using this thickness because in the event that you run over a curb and hit the flap, I would rather the flap break and shatter than have it cause damage to the car.
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M4H4X
Member
Definitely going with the 0.06”.
The .12” is much too thick, would definitely damage something if it got hit by a curb.
.12”:
.06”:
Ideally 0.08” would be what you’d want. But I cannot find any.
So I believe I will mount these and then replace them with 0.08” if I can ever find any (or if a legitimate vendor comes out with a better option.).
Mounting pics coming tomorrow.
The .12” is much too thick, would definitely damage something if it got hit by a curb.
.12”:
.06”:
Ideally 0.08” would be what you’d want. But I cannot find any.
So I believe I will mount these and then replace them with 0.08” if I can ever find any (or if a legitimate vendor comes out with a better option.).
Mounting pics coming tomorrow.
M4H4X
Member
One more post with a tire turned:
When I mount these tomorrow I will put a curve in the whole inner panel to prevent tire interference.
I’m going to put a small strip of PPF underneath the guard on the painted portion of the fender and install some sort of 3M foam/padding between that and the guard. Not sure exactly which yet.
When I mount these tomorrow I will put a curve in the whole inner panel to prevent tire interference.
I’m going to put a small strip of PPF underneath the guard on the painted portion of the fender and install some sort of 3M foam/padding between that and the guard. Not sure exactly which yet.
Please put me down for e set as these are a must! When will you have some for sale?
WilliamG
Hinge Fanatic
M4H4X
Member
Guys last night I slept on it, and looked at what other companies have done for previous models… Which led me to the conclusion that I was very much over complicating this…
So today I developed a simplified template:
Figuring out attachment points now.
So today I developed a simplified template:
Figuring out attachment points now.
M4H4X
Member
Also, random. If you’re looking to do this yourself and maybe looking to add another hole in the fender liner, i noticed that what appears to be one of the battery pack coolant lines is RIGHT behind the driver side inner liner, so be careful. I outlined the area below.
M4H4X
Member
2 out of 3 attachment points tackled…
Good rocker panel coverage and MILES of tire clearance:
The upper “connector” requires no drill in the fender, it is just a C clip (put PPF underneath) that stabilizes the upper blade which the flap will bolt to (just like the previous generation RokBlokz:
Now for the scary part, the “extra” hole in the inner liner.
Good rocker panel coverage and MILES of tire clearance:
The upper “connector” requires no drill in the fender, it is just a C clip (put PPF underneath) that stabilizes the upper blade which the flap will bolt to (just like the previous generation RokBlokz:
Now for the scary part, the “extra” hole in the inner liner.
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