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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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Had a major issue with my S60 today that required towing. Problems started after I approached the driver door and the handles did not auto-present as usual. No problem, it sometimes happens. I unlocked the car with my fob and got into the driver's seat. I step on the brake pedal, nothing. I hit the brakes several times again and start seeing an error on the dash stating "Car needs service, may not be able to drive". I hit the brake pedal again and able to shift the car into reverse and am on my way home. No errors on the way home. I approach my home and decide to drive to the community mailbox to pick up the mail. As I slow to a stop, the car needs service message pops up again. I hesistantly put the car into park, get out of the get, get the mail.

I get back in the car, step on the brake again, getting the same error "Car needs service, may not be able to drive". Additionally, it states something to the effect of "12V battery low, car my power down unexpectedly". I cannot shift out of park this time and am essentially stuck half a block from him. I contact the local Tesla service center, they say that they sees the errors from my car and think there may be a problem with the battery coolant. They instruct me to call Tesla Roadside Assistance to have my car towed and delivered to the service center tomorrow morning. While on the phone with roadside assistance, I am able to get my car moving again and park it in my driveway. Less than an hour later, the tow service takes it away. The tow guy says he's tows a few Teslas recently for a similar issue of not being able to start, "must be the cold weather" he adds.

I'm expecting a call from the service center in the morning to see if they can fix it or may have give me a loaner, or which they are short on at the moment and may need to get me an Enterprise rental car instead. What do you guys think? It is a simple as the 12V battery going back or something else?
 
Had a major issue with my S60 today that required towing. Problems started after I approached the driver door and the handles did not auto-present as usual. No problem, it sometimes happens. I unlocked the car with my fob and got into the driver's seat. I step on the brake pedal, nothing. I hit the brakes several times again and start seeing an error on the dash stating "Car needs service, may not be able to drive". I hit the brake pedal again and able to shift the car into reverse and am on my way home. No errors on the way home. I approach my home and decide to drive to the community mailbox to pick up the mail. As I slow to a stop, the car needs service message pops up again. I hesistantly put the car into park, get out of the get, get the mail.

I get back in the car, step on the brake again, getting the same error "Car needs service, may not be able to drive". Additionally, it states something to the effect of "12V battery low, car my power down unexpectedly". I cannot shift out of park this time and am essentially stuck half a block from him. I contact the local Tesla service center, they say that they sees the errors from my car and think there may be a problem with the battery coolant. They instruct me to call Tesla Roadside Assistance to have my car towed and delivered to the service center tomorrow morning. While on the phone with roadside assistance, I am able to get my car moving again and park it in my driveway. Less than an hour later, the tow service takes it away. The tow guy says he's tows a few Teslas recently for a similar issue of not being able to start, "must be the cold weather" he adds.

I'm expecting a call from the service center in the morning to see if they can fix it or may have give me a loaner, or which they are short on at the moment and may need to get me an Enterprise rental car instead. What do you guys think? It is a simple as the 12V battery going back or something else?

Cold weather? In Florida? Pssh. :rolleyes:

If it weren't for the comment from service on the battery coolant, I'd say it sounds like you may have a bad 12V battery. There was a bad batch I think in late 2013 or early 2014 that, to my understanding, Tesla replaced for everyone on an opportunity basis (TSB) if not by necessity. What VIN sequence or build date?

Mine has been going great for 17 months, through one moderately frigid winter (~2 weeks with negative lows, as low as -15F), so I would think my car is pretty solid in that regard. (knock on wood)
 
If the coolant gets low it will let you know, if some component overheats because of insufficient cooling, you will first see a power limit, much like the regen limit or a low battery limit, that manifests as the dashed yellow line. If the temperature continues to rise, it will then do a "Car shutting down, please pull over safely" and then "Call Tesla service".

The 12v battery error happens anytime the car is awake for a few minutes without the DC-DC converter enabled. This means it detects a low voltage. The main contactors probably opened due to the fault and then began pulling down the 12v battery until you got the error. Even with a brand new 12v battery, that will happen in only a few minutes if for some reason the car doesn't close it's contactors and begin supplying power to the 12v rail.

So whatever it was, doesn't sound like a coolant issue. Please let us know what they find!
 
Cold weather? In Florida? Pssh. :rolleyes:

If it weren't for the comment from service on the battery coolant, I'd say it sounds like you may have a bad 12V battery. There was a bad batch I think in late 2013 or early 2014 that, to my understanding, Tesla replaced for everyone on an opportunity basis (TSB) if not by necessity. What VIN sequence or build date?

Mine has been going great for 17 months, through one moderately frigid winter (~2 weeks with negative lows, as low as -15F), so I would think my car is pretty solid in that regard. (knock on wood)

Oops, forgot to change my location. I live in the Pacific Northwest now.

They didn't tell me much today, only that they needed to order some parts. I'll have to ask for specifics when I pick it up.
 
I finally received my S60 back four days after having it towed. They had to replace the battery coolant heater. Took a while to get the part. Just did a range change for my trip to Whistler this weekend but noticed the max charge is only 185 miles of range. I guess it must be due to the cold weather, 30s outside, slightly warmer in my garage. I'm not sure I've seen the full charge range this low though.
 
Hoping for some guidance/someone to talk me off the ledge here...

We took delivery of our 70D on 7/17 and it worked flawlessly for about the first 6 weeks (including a road trip from Colorado Springs, CO to Park City, UT). Since that time, I've experienced some significant technical issues that I will outline here, but the car has been operable:

1. LTE connectivity - this was the first thing I noticed. Car would come off WiFi at home and then just go to nothing. Seemed odd considering the fact that I had great signal strength for the previous 6 weeks, including some fairly surprising spots while on said road trip. I believe this was related to the software update around he same time that seemed to cause shuddering and LTE issues for some. I also noticed the shuddering, but didn't come up as a red flag for me.

2. Connectivity to iPhone app - I noticed as well that the app would just spin and spin, saying "trying to wake-up the car" and getting nowhere. As I already noticed the connectivity issue, this wasn't much of a surprise, but an annoyance as I was trying to put the car in valet mode after leaving it with a restaurant valet and forgetting to do so prior.

3. Internet radio sporadically working - using Slacker, one song would play and then just spin as if trying to download the next. I pressed the button to advance to the next song and one more would play, and then spinning again. Eventually I would see a error asking me to log into my Slacker account, which of course it already was, but trying to "reconnect" the account would fix it again for one song, and so on.

[Around this point is when I first called the Tech Support hotline. I was driving at the time and they said there was nothing hat they could do until I got to my location, but confirmed it showed Offline for them as well. The rep gave me instructions to perform a soft reboot by pressing the steering wheel scroll wheels and cycling through to the T logo, rinse and repeat, once I got to my destination. Ironically, I was going for window tint where the car would be sitting in a shop for a few hours. Would have been nice to have connectivity with my iPhone app so I could keep an eye on it.]

I attempted the soft reboot twice at the shop, did not seem to fix the issue as I still had no connectivity through the app. However, my Slacker seemed to be working better or at least was playing a song when I exited the car.

4. GPS stopped working a couple days after I first noticed the connectivity issue. Red arrow no longer tracking my location, but instead appeared permanently fixed at my home where it last worked. This was a much more significant issue than I first realized because of all the things tied into GPS. For example, Homelink stopped appearing in my driveway because of course the car didn't know where it was. I attempted another soft reboot while at home and on WiFi, and was able to connect to the car through the app, but GPS did not come back.

5. Car clock 2 hours off (on Eastern while in Mountain) - using the phone app, I was now able to see the car's location was showing somewhere outside of Quebec City, which explained the Eastern time zone and clock issue. The car was at home in Colorado. Another soft reboot and at least the time came back, but GPS was stuck at home.

I called Tech Support again and got a service appt scheduled. No small task as the closest one is an hour away from me and the only appt they could offer me was at 3:30 on a Tuesday, which means leaving work and a lot of time on my part. No evening or weekend appts are available EVER, per the woman at the SC who I talked to. Not very customer friendly in my book and I was pretty disappointed to hear that.

When I pulled in for my appt, the car connected immediately to the SC WiFi and showed the correct location in Denver. When the advisor came out, we drove around the shop and the red arrow followed. Of course it did. Because why wouldn't it work perfectly now at the SC? They pulled the LTE fuse to reset just to be sure, and I was fine all the way and for a day after. But guess what doesn't work anymore? That's right, my GPS. If I reboot, I *may* get one trip out of it. But when I park, location is again frozen when I drive off to come back home. For example, I ran to Whole Foods in Colo Spgs last night, parked and then drove home. The car today is still showing me somewhere in Colorado Springs with just a solid gray screen (not at home, outside of the city). And guess what's also back? My current time is 8:47AM and the car is showing 12:47AM. I'm attaching a photo of the screen for reference.

This weekend was Labor Day and we took a mini road trip to Glenwood Springs. Here again the GPS issue is bigger than just Nav because the car no longer knows where it needs to stop for a charge, causing some significant range anxiety on my part. There were some folks on a test drive stopped at one of the superchargers with us and asked how we liked the car. I found myself for the first time saying, I'm not in love, which is a little bit heartbreaking after spending 100K and being a shareholder.

On another note, I called and escalated this issue again on Friday before the weekend to the SC. It's Wednesday morning and still nothing. Trying to call them goes to voicemail, as I'm finding to be the norm.

Would appreciate hearing from anyone who has experienced something similar...thanks.

-Brie

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Having both LTE connectivity and GPS issues suggests some kind of problem with the antenna or signal pathways common to the radios, or something interfering with normal radio function. Or, it could be an LTE radio issue alone, as internet problems could adversely affect GPS (not necessarily, and I don't know what Tesla has or hasn't done, but it is a possible side-effect on some systems).

The other symptoms (slacker cutting out, time being off, app can't connect) would occur if you had a poor/unreliable internet.

Having wifi would temporarily cure these issues, of course.
 
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Driver's side door handle

Sadly, just a couple months into ownership, the first door handle failure has already occurred, on the driver's side door.

First sign something was wrong: I noticed that the door handle was sometimes trying to close on my hand, after I stepped out and was using it to close the door. Sounds worse than it was - the mechanism feels "proofed" against pinching, and would just softly press against your hand. But it was clearly not right. Then within a few days the handle was stuck closed.

This many years into production, for a brand new car to have one fail this quickly, when the door handles have always been a well-known, nay, notorious reliability problem from the beginning, makes me feel like they have an even bigger problem with failing to iterate/improve their way out of a design flaw.

I feel like my experience eerily mirrors Consumer Reports feedback overall. They describe a superlative car. Also they ding it for reliability issues (and Consumer Reports' own car was reported to have had a door handle issue - heh). They also note its great support organization and 97% happy/would-by-again owners. Sure enough, I was dreading a few weeks of back and forth with service centers, but instead, Tesla did a valet swap for a loaner within 24 hours, and had a cleaned, totally fixed car back to me 24 hours after that. Awesome. They went absoultely above and beyond to meet me at a convenient time and place both times. It's an impressive service organization, and it shows how customer service can trump many other things. The whole experience was so surprisingly good, it actually left me happier than I started.
 
Picked up my Model S yesterday afternoon. As soon as I got it home, the passenger door started to pop open when the car unlocks. Called Tesla and I have an appointment for Friday AM. They sounded really concerned and wanted to get it fixed ASAP. I still freaking love the car, so it's hard to be upset.
 
This was common with early cars and the Gen 1 door handles. I had the problem myself. Tesla replaced all 4 handles with the new style and my problem is gone. Surprised to see it still cropping up on newer cars.

Even if you get the failure rate down to .1%, that's still 1 car out of 1000 that will have the issue, so I'm not too worried....

I did take a friend for a ride in the car and she thought that the door popping open was one of the coolest features. She was pretty deflated when I told her it was actually a bug ;).
 
As I was driving tonight, each time I reached a complete stop at a stop light / stop sign, I got a beeping and visual feedback telling me to stop. Seems like a false park assist warning. Sensors were perfectly clear. People have mentioned rebooting the instrument cluster as a possible fix? Any other ideas?

IMG_4732.JPG
 
I was able to capture a video of what I'm calling a malfunctioning parking sensor tonight -- and there is a possibility that it was causing false lane departure warnings as well.

Anyway, I have an email out to the local service center to see if they can schedule me for a fix. Again, the sensor is completely free and clear from any debris.

 
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Two days ago, my driver's door spontaneously opened. Yesterday, it happened again. When I got out and closed the door, the handle stayed out. It is now stuck in presented position and I'm unable open the door from the outside. I entered from the passenger side and the door opens normally using the interior handle but locks shut with the handle sticking out when closed again. I have a call into the service centre. Unnerving to think the door might pop open while driving.