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Model X 20-inch square wheel setup

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Hello, I have a 2016 Model X P90D with 20-inch stock staggered wheels. Does anyone know:
1) Can I buy two more stock front wheels from another older X and install them on the rear? Then all four of my wheels will be same size 20in x 9in. and I can buy the same 4 tires and do rotations front to back.
2) Will there be some offset problem and need spacer in the rear when using 20in x 9in wheels in the back? I don't tow anything so hopefully I don't need the wider rear wheels.

Any info is appreciated. Thx.
 
Hello, I have a 2016 Model X P90D with 20-inch stock staggered wheels. Does anyone know:
1) Can I buy two more stock front wheels from another older X and install them on the rear? Then all four of my wheels will be same size 20in x 9in. and I can buy the same 4 tires and do rotations front to back.
2) Will there be some offset problem and need spacer in the rear when using 20in x 9in wheels in the back? I don't tow anything so hopefully I don't need the wider rear wheels.

Any info is appreciated. Thx.
Where you located? I have a spare staggered set that I don’t intend on putting back on.
 
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FYI, one of the factory (and elsewhere) documented options is 9" on the front and 9.5" on the rear.

I like that idea but probably won't go to the expense since all my tires have wore the same and I replace all 4 at once.
 
Looking at tire sizes, the cheapest tires for the 20x9 inch stock X wheels are 255/45R20, this is a Tesla recommended tire size for 20x9 wheel. So for a square setup of all four 20x9 wheels, will I encounter any problem with using 255 width tires on the whole car including the rear? (the rear normally use 275 width on wider wheel). I don't care about looks or curb rash, I don't tow, and I know my grip will be somewhat lower. But I assume I'll have better efficiency and hopefully less noise with 255 width on the rear. I appreciate all the replies from the experts on this forum.
 
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9" front and 9.5" rear is the standard wheel for almost all pre-refresh 20" equipped cars. The 20x10 slipstreams were not sold for very long, maybe 18 months? and got superseded in the parts catalog by the 9,5" slipstream, and that wheel size didn't come back until the Cyberstream wheels on the refresh cars. They 20x10's are rare but you can find them out in the wild if you look. The Slipstream 9's are ET35, and the 9.5's are ET40. The offset difference got reversed for the Cyberstream, which is now 20x9 ET40 front and 20x10 ET35 rear. Which suggests to me there's room for refresh cars to do 20x10 ET35 rear wheels all around as their square setup, since plenty of people have done 10+" wide fronts on legacy cars

I had good success buying a used slipstream wheel from Ebay wheel seller. They're not very expensive at $220-250 each.
 
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Where you located? I have a spare staggered set that I don’t intend on putting back on.

It seems I can't message you @ElectricIAC
If you still have this set....
I'm in South Florida, but I travel the USA for work and have a trip to California in the near future, and I'm actually on the way to Connecticut right this minute. If you still have these, maybe we can make something work, I'd definitely be interested! Staggered wheels annoy me b/c of how much driving I do, I like to be able to rotate them once in a while. Message me please and we can work out the details.

For anyone on I-95... If you see a Platinum MX with a Jeep following way too close... Wave at the Towing Tesla!
 
The fronts fit fine in the rear, it's the rears that are a little too low-offset for the front, it actually touches the upright a bit. I was able to make it work with 6mm of spacer, but that's not worth the hassle IMO when the fronts are fine and you can do a square 265 setup and rotate
Does anyone have a picture of their X on 20 inch fronts on all 4 corners? Just wondering how different it looks. Really annoyed there's no square setups from the factory. 30k miles and my fronts are down to the wires because I couldn't rotate. Costco doesn't carry continental, so now I can either run mismatched front and rear or buy new wheels so I can go square and having matching rotatable tires
 
Does anyone have a picture of their X on 20 inch fronts on all 4 corners? Just wondering how different it looks. Really annoyed there's no square setups from the factory. 30k miles and my fronts are down to the wires because I couldn't rotate. Costco doesn't carry continental, so now I can either run mismatched front and rear or buy new wheels so I can go square and having matching rotatable tires
Rear rims are wider (8 vs 9 or 9 vs 10 dont recall) so you need to be careful.

Buy two Coninentals from tirerack-com and have them shipped to a local 'partner'. I did that the last time and the 'partner' was Firestone and installation was inexpensive.

Or switch to another brand ... for all 4. I used tirerack and did these (60K Mile Manufacturer's Warranty) less than 1 yr ago.
275/45R-20 Michelin CrossClimate2 XL on rear and
265/45R-20 Michelin CrossClimate2 XL on front.
 
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how do ppl get more than 20k on any set of tires is beyond me (safety)... every 10k i get new tires... like clockwork... no checking no thinking no opinion... just do it...
There may be (Probably IS!) something severely wrong with your alignment if you are halfway through the tires at 10k miles. But it is also EXTREMELY wasteful of materials and cash to get them so often!

I realize that NASCAR and other race organizations might go through a set of tires in only a few HUNDRED miles, but that doesn't make this any less ludicrous. For my driving, that would be $1000 in tires every 2 months, and $6000 in the last year. Hmm.... No. That's crazy pants.
 
Does anyone have a picture of their X on 20 inch fronts on all 4 corners? Just wondering how different it looks. Really annoyed there's no square setups from the factory. 30k miles and my fronts are down to the wires because I couldn't rotate. Costco doesn't carry continental, so now I can either run mismatched front and rear or buy new wheels so I can go square and having matching rotatable tires

PXL_20230227_010656632.jpg
 
There may be (Probably IS!) something severely wrong with your alignment if you are halfway through the tires at 10k miles. But it is also EXTREMELY wasteful of materials and cash to get them so often!

I realize that NASCAR and other race organizations might go through a set of tires in only a few HUNDRED miles, but that doesn't make this any less ludicrous. For my driving, that would be $1000 in tires every 2 months, and $6000 in the last year. Hmm.... No. That's crazy pants.
crazy pants but alive and well... rainy day, snowy day, icy top... u slippin and slidin...

i d rather be in a ford pinto w new tires every 10k miles than in a tesla mx with 20k mile tires...
 
I've already put 17k miles on my X since I bought it in February, and been in all four seasons worth of weather too. No "slippin and slidin" anywhere, even in chain-controlled areas of the Sierra Nevada mountains in April. Lots of ice and snow at 7500 feet.

First: Michelin Crossclimate2 tires are great on snow and ice, and those tires did most of the traveling. If you are having traction issues on tires with only 20k miles on them, there is something about how YOU are using the tires. It's not reasonable for normal tires to wear out that fast.

I drive over 50k miles a year - this last year is closer to 70k - and fully expect the treadlife to reach the numbers that Michelin thinks the Crossclimate2 can do. Maybe you are buying tires with a treadlife number below 300? Or using snow tires all year long? Hint: You don't have to do either one.
 
I've already put 17k miles on my X since I bought it in February, and been in all four seasons worth of weather too. No "slippin and slidin" anywhere, even in chain-controlled areas of the Sierra Nevada mountains in April. Lots of ice and snow at 7500 feet.

First: Michelin Crossclimate2 tires are great on snow and ice, and those tires did most of the traveling. If you are having traction issues on tires with only 20k miles on them, there is something about how YOU are using the tires. It's not reasonable for normal tires to wear out that fast.

I drive over 50k miles a year - this last year is closer to 70k - and fully expect the treadlife to reach the numbers that Michelin thinks the Crossclimate2 can do. Maybe you are buying tires with a treadlife number below 300? Or using snow tires all year long? Hint: You don't have to do either one.

when a set of allseason tires go from 10/32 to 5/32 - it s no longer at max possible performance in rain or snow or mud...

when it goes under 5/32 it s dangerous...

you can save $ and keep driving under 5/32...

so summer in rain or winter in snow, tires under 5/32 is still at poor performance tread life...

that s my logic... and in an mx i don t ever expect 20k mile tires to be above 5/32 and in fact i will change tires at 6/32...
 
Going off the beaten path with 255/50R20s. Have a non Plaid 2022 MX. Bought a set of 20 x 9 fronts off ebay to go square. Already run 20 x 9 square for winters.

The summer rear Contis are worn to 3/32 in 10k miles. Fronts are still at 8/32. Am going with 50 series as the speedo reads 2 mph high at 60, so a larger tire will bring me 1.2 mph correction to the speedo. Also 255/50R20 has lots more tire choices at a lower price point than 265s, so must be more popular. Getting Nokian One 109V XL for $166/tire. Run Nokian winters and they are great. The One is a well reviewed USA made tire for the price of cheap Chinese tires.
 
What I'm reading in other threads is that the Continentals seem to be the most expensive trash tire you can find - and that mileage out of them is not unusual.

I'm looking to go a different direction for my X, going to pick up a set of 19" Tsportline rims and (though it kills me to do it) get a new set of Michelin Crossclimate2 in 235/55/19 for them. I'm running with the OEM 20" wheels right now on another trip, NOT towing (but I do have a tray on the back) and getting about the same 400-420 wh/mi at 80mph that I got on my last trip with the 235/45/19 Crossclimate2 and OEM wheels from my S... WITH A TRAILER and 70mph! The load on the trailer was the same tool boxes that I have on the tray, plus a couple body parts - all low profile and the trailer is all aluminum 6x12 that weighed about 600 lbs.

So I'm 600 lbs lighter, less wind resistance with taller and wider tires (265 and 275 width 20") with OEM heavy wheels.... And getting the same terrible range. A 90% charge before today, in FLAT land (South Carolina) the navigation said a 115 mile leg would arrive with 12% remaining. That's nuts.

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Tessie said that 90% charge should have been "real world" 167 miles. Something's got to give, this was actually also when the previous 30 miles was only at 386 wh/mi because of construction and a much lower average speed.
2023-05-08 19-21-12.png
 
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What I'm reading in other threads is that the Continentals seem to be the most expensive trash tire you can find - and that mileage out of them is not unusual.

I'm looking to go a different direction for my X, going to pick up a set of 19" Tsportline rims and (though it kills me to do it) get a new set of Michelin Crossclimate2 in 235/55/19 for them. I'm running with the OEM 20" wheels right now on another trip, NOT towing (but I do have a tray on the back) and getting about the same 400-420 wh/mi at 80mph that I got on my last trip with the 245/45/19 and OEM wheels from my S... WITH A TRAILER and 70mph! The load on the trailer was the same tool boxes that I have on the tray, plus a couple body parts - all low profile and the trailer is all aluminum 6x12 that weighed about 600 lbs.

So I'm 600 lbs lighter, less wind resistance with taller and wider tires (265 and 275 width 20") with OEM heavy wheels.... And getting the same terrible range. A 90% charge before today, in FLAT land (South Carolina) the navigation said a 115 mile leg would arrive with 12% remaining. That's nuts.

View attachment 935963

Tessie said that 90% charge should have been "real world" 167 miles. Something's got to give, this was actually also when the previous 30 miles was only at 386 wh/mi because of construction and a much lower average speed.
View attachment 935965

235 55 19 would be great for lowering your wh/mi - 235 would be perfect fit for ms 19" slipstreams...

245 55 19 or 255 55 19 would work too... these are my two current setups along w/ 265 (275) 45 20...
 
Yeah the Tsportline rims I'm looking at are from an S, 8.5" wide. I would have used another set of OEM rims, but on that trip with the trailer and the wheels from my S, I caught a pothole and trashed two of the rims. The tires did NOT get damaged, but the rims cracked. If there had been more sidewall, maybe the rims would have been OK.... But those cast rims are heavy anyway.

2023-04-09 15-18-55.jpeg
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ms 19' slipstreams are 29 lb each so i think that is light but amazingly the 20' mx slipstreams are only 31 lb each....

high profile will save rims amd wh/mi...

someone else mentioned that higher profile also increases towing capacity or load capacity as well but i can t confirm that it s true...