Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Model Y Confusion, what battery will I get?

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I have a 2022 M3 with LFP and 2020 MY with NCA. They are both great.
LFP: ~5% loss in 2 years, 27k miles
NCA: ~9% loss in 4 years, 68k miles

I do like being to regularly charge my LFP to 100% and still having regen.

I didn't bother paying for teslafi on my M3, but the data on my MY is interesting.
View attachment 1048571
Will be interesting to see LFP after 4 years to see if it’s better or worse at the same age and mileage. I predict they’ll be about the same.

I lose regen all the time with my LFP - long hills or cold weather it seems to hate. I wonder if you’re getting a bit of blended braking at 100%…
 
If you are somewhere close to anywhere they’re probably wrong about batteries :rolleyes:

In general the sales persons have about 5% of the knowledge of these forums, unfortunately.
They often doesn’t know, and when they *know* its wrong.

I had my S on the Servicecenter for some issues, and had a coffee in the showroom.
Overheard a discussion about the terrain mode in Y (Off Road or something), which I know NIL about, not owning an Y.
Next day there was a discussion in a Swedish forum about that terrain mode/Off road so I wrote what the seller said.
Soon, I was shot at in the thread as I was clearly wrong. Doublechecked in the manual and it was very clear that what the seller told was not at all correct.
Usually I do not state things like that without knowledge but it sounded safe to use the sellers information…:oops:
It's doubly confusing for me down here with Chinese made versions with the same names as US. The model is MYLR dual motor. It has offroad mode and a 533km statutory range. I am still not sure what the chemistry is because I haven't accepted delivery due to unresolved leaky lights issue.
+1. Though all Teslas now (software) mimic regen when the battery is too full, so you have one pedal driving whether regen is active or not. Evidently there was a short period a few years ago where at 100% charge, the car would not brake if one pedal driving (HOLD) was selected - yikes!
I drove it up a decent grade 3 minutes up and 3 down. It braked very well with it in hold while I was still "on the gas" to avoid stopping. It had a 90% charge or thereabouts. If that was assisted by disc brakes automatically I would be feeling highly duped.
 
I drove it up a decent grade 3 minutes up and 3 down. It braked very well with it in hold while I was still "on the gas" to avoid stopping. It had a 90% charge or thereabouts. If that was assisted by disc brakes automatically I would be feeling highly duped.
Not sure what you're trying to say, here's the info - been an option since 2022
Tesla Has Improved Braking With A Full Battery! - CleanTechnica
Tesla updates car software to start applying regular brakes when regenerative is limited
 
It's doubly confusing for me down here with Chinese made versions with the same names as US. The model is MYLR dual motor. It has offroad mode and a 533km statutory range. I am still not sure what the chemistry is because I haven't accepted delivery due to unresolved leaky lights issue.
To a very high degree of certiness it is the LG 78.8 kWh pack you have. (LG M-50 cells, NMC / NMCA chemistry).

They do not ship Panasonic cells ti China, they use the LG cells.
 
  • Like
Reactions: E90alex
To a very high degree of certiness it is the LG 78.8 kWh pack you have. (LG M-50 cells, NMC / NMCA chemistry).

They do not ship Panasonic cells ti China, they use the LG cells.
That sounds like good information. So I am a 80% daily maximum for best available milage without causing undue aging?

I worded that as carefully as possible for my particular use case.

If I charge anywhere from 60 to 80% the aging is the same. Over 80% there is a small aging penalty cost. I think I worked out if I was regularly supercharging I would be better off eating the 100% charging aging penalty and saving for a new battery while secretly hoping to be able to add it to my retirement fundage instead.

Assume I will regularly need to start with more than 55% and occasionally use closer to 80% and am allergic to range anxiety. SC is pretty available but very costly.

I think I am way better off keeping it topped up to 80% overnight rather than coughing for a SC to finish a shift if I can get all the regular work done that way.

Trips is different. Can't do the trip without a good bit left in it. Usually get some notice so a 15min or 30min ZAP would be appropriate rather than going without the trip.

I would still miss the best trip I ever had, what with the SC dessert beyond. I had to do an emergency run to Milford Sound with licence to throw it around the bends to save time even if pax threw up. She wanted to get there yesterday! We went prepared and she was fine.

There was a cruise ship waiting on her. It transpired it wasn't my turn for a trip but the other choices were not considered capable of judicious bend taking without speeding.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AAKEE
That sounds like good information. So I am a 80% daily maximum for best available milage without causing undue aging?

I worded that as carefully as possible for my particular use case.

If I charge anywhere from 60 to 80% the aging is the same. Over 80% there is a small aging penalty cost.
Yes, you will be fine at 80%. I do not think ypu need to save for a new battery.

(60% and lower would reduce the degradation but that do not seem like an option for you.)
 
  • Like
Reactions: QtownTaxiGreg
Yes, you will be fine at 80%. I do not think ypu need to save for a new battery.

(60% and lower would reduce the degradation but that do not seem like an option for you.)
The cab needs to do ten years service. 400000km if we get a wriggle on recovering from Covid and Putin. Then it will be basically worthless with the old battery if it lasts that long. That would suit me fine. Battery contingency savings can go into a retirement splash or more likely medical bills.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AAKEE
The cab needs to do ten years service. 400000km if we get a wriggle on recovering from Covid and Putin. Then it will be basically worthless with the old battery if it lasts that long. That would suit me fine. Battery contingency savings can go into a retirement splash or more likely medical bills.
I would charge when possible during the day, to keep the cycles in reasonable size.
Also, charge late so the 80% is reached just before the morning shift starts.
(I take it, it is not driven 24h/day, from the estimated miles after 10 years?)
 
I would charge when possible during the day, to keep the cycles in reasonable size.
Also, charge late so the 80% is reached just before the morning shift starts.
(I take it, it is not driven 24h/day, from the estimated miles after 10 years?)
I will have to be a little leary on charging late until I suss the night controlled power. That is the only way I can get a night tariff.
 
I would charge when possible during the day, to keep the cycles in reasonable size.
Also, charge late so the 80% is reached just before the morning shift starts.
(I take it, it is not driven 24h/day, from the estimated miles after 10 years?)
The NMC graphs you’ve provided us show degradation up to 90% is identical to LFP - so if that’s how the LG NMCA battery works too, then he could in theory charge daily to 90%. For 400,000km in a taxi you’d say a LFP RWD Model Y might be a better bet - that’s what all the Taxis are in nearby Wellington. Not sure which is the better bet for the requirement of ten years service - only time will tell on that one - but if he needs all wheel drive and a bit more range from time to time then an LR on 19inch wheels might be a better bet. As for charging, there’s free 25kw chargers in Nelson, plus fast chargers in Picton at Z which are much cheaper than Superchargers. The South Island infrastructure is improving fairly rapidly.
 
It's doubly confusing for me down here with Chinese made versions with the same names as US. The model is MYLR dual motor. It has offroad mode and a 533km statutory range. I am still not sure what the chemistry is because I haven't accepted delivery due to unresolved leaky lights issue.

I drove it up a decent grade 3 minutes up and 3 down. It braked very well with it in hold while I was still "on the gas" to avoid stopping. It had a 90% charge or thereabouts. If that was assisted by disc brakes automatically I would be feeling highly duped.
My Shanghai built Long Range MY hasn’t reduced regen on me once yet. My LFP MY does all the time and it’s pretty noticeable. Given your username I assume you’re in Queenstown. Perhaps you will get reduced regen on super cold days, but I wouldn’t be surprised if you didn’t. You’ll have to get a Long Range for the All Wheel Drive I’d say. Just make sure you get 19 inch wheels as many came with 20 inch wheels initially in NZ. I see there are some 50kw public chargers in QT for 80 cents, so from completely flat to completely full might cost you $55, but normally you’d be going from 20% - 90% or so, so maybe $40. There are superchargers but they are the most expensive option normally. I’d say the Z down there will eventually install chargers so they should be cheaper. The best would be Zero chargers - as they are normally completely free - I’d say the charging in Queenstown will improve a lot over the next five years. Cheers
 
The NMC graphs you’ve provided us show degradation up to 90% is identical to LFP - so if that’s how the LG NMCA battery works too, then he could in theory charge daily to 90%.
The research has always known that 90% is safe from a calendar aging perspective.

But then year at 80-90% daily charge will cause a calendar aging at about 15-16% or so (general value, did bit look into this cars place and average temperature etc).

We know that the lithium battery industry consider lithium batteries consumed after 20% degradation, this is for a valid reason = the degradation starts to become unpredictable. The cells may or may not start to loose capacity rapid. But nmsome cases materiel needed for stability is consumed etc.
To be safe, its better to try to stay below 20% capacity loss.

So we would like to keep the cyclic aging down, which we in general do by using smaller cycles preferably at lower SOC.

Also, if possible having the battery to spend time when not in use at lower SOC ( at or below 60%) in this case.

10 years in this case may bot be a problem, but it could be.
These cells are rather new so we do not have the answer to this to be sure.
I would use a conservative approach to it increase the possibility of success.
 
Inferior? Doesn't it have double the charge discharge cycle life span?

Also despite the 30% reduction in energy density I thought that's why they build it structurally to reduce weight else where.

Also how do we know they aren't eligible for Federal Tax Credit? Because they are Chinese batteries?

I have to say this is all what makes buying a Tesla stressful...

The sales reps who you would think should be most knowledgeable seem to be the most confused and left in the dark. Which is odd because they work for Tesla.

It's like I have to really dig deep and learn all the details to challenge them and gauge what is going on.
waaay too many assumptions