naszero
Member
Just installed my mud flaps from Tesmanian. Was prepared to use the tips from the youtube video posted above but I didn't have any trouble removing the two 10mm bolts from the rear.
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That worked for me on the right rear mudflap but not on the left. I texted RPM customer support about this and they said it was Tesla's fault. That helps a lot.Nice workaround! Thanks for sharing the video.
Or just don't install the rear ones...they don't offer much protectionThat worked for me on the right rear mudflap but not on the left. I texted RPM customer support about this and they said it was Tesla's fault. That helps a lot.
I don't have the gear to take the wheel off to get in there to remove the spinning (round) nut and am going to have to take it to a shop to have it done. Drat.
I thought about that but already have the right one installed and prefer things to be symmetrical.Or just don't install the rear ones...they don't offer much protection
Rear mud flaps don’t offer protection? What does then? Adding PPF to the rear panel? I can’t see that holding up over time either.Or just don't install the rear ones...they don't offer much protection
Look at where the rear mud flaps are positioned - they are not going to protect the rear door panel so PPF is probably your best protection option.Rear mud flaps don’t offer protection? What does then? Adding PPF to the rear panel? I can’t see that holding up over time either.
Having front mud flaps and not having rears to me just looks odd. But living in WI I have to come up with a game plan on what I should add before this winter season.Look at where the rear mud flaps are positioned - they are not going to protect the rear door panel so PPF is probably your best protection option.
I got the left rear mudflap installed at my mechanic's shop, Reeve's Automotive in San Luis Obispo CA. He's maintained our vehicles for years now. They jacked up the car (with the jack puck), got my vice grips on the nut and it was off in a jiffy. The mudflap then went on quickly after that.
After John put the wheel back on and torqued it down (129#), he checked the other wheels. With <300 mi on it, all lug nuts were a little loose.
He recommends checking torque on wheel lug nuts when the car has 50-100 miles on it as new as well as whenever a wheel it taken off (e.g., new tires).
My Y built in July 2020 doesn’t have those bolts, was that a running change the made to later vehicles?There is a new YouTube on how to remove the bolts...very informative!
Great thought. The first RPM video made no mention of the bolt issue. Subsequently, RPM issued two other videos attempting to deal with the bolts. I saw the first vid for RPM and other manufacturers.Just a thought. If you are inclined to purchased mud flaps for self-installation then prior to ordering see if you can remove the required bolts first.
Rich
So, TESLA has PPM for the rears $50. I got some XCEL pre cut film for the rockets and actually had them installed 4 panels already had PPF on the front of the car.Look at where the rear mud flaps are positioned - they are not going to protect the rear door panel so PPF is probably your best protection option.
So much for the theory that red multi-coat is more durable! I'm waiting for Tesla response on my chipping problem, not nearly as bad as this though.Just get the mud flaps on ASAP
View attachment 648748
All the white spots are where the red paint is gone and the white undercoat is exposed. Do not see any exposed metal yet. Just over 5k miles.
I’d also like to know this!Anyone have or installed the mud flaps from Tesmanian?
They look to be exactly like the other china-sourced flaps - very similar to RPM. I had more success with Basenor - they attach much more solidly than the RPM.I’d also like to know this!
Don’t those stick down closer to the ground though?They look to be exactly like the other china-sourced flaps - very similar to RPM. I had more success with Basenor - they attach much more solidly than the RPM.