So to simplify all that for a tire idiot, basically a 29' tire would give an extra half inch or whatever sidewall and therefore should be a more comfortable ride? And them maybe take out a few PSI and that's probably the best you can do? Does width matter? Would you want the widest 29' tire that would fit, for either more comfort or less road noise?
So here's what you're looking at.
Tire pressure alone isn't going to accomplish much but make you feel like you're doing something.
I'll provide more info in the coming day or two, but adding sidewall is a definite improvement. Takes a lot of the jiggle out of the system.
Today I mounted a set of BFG Terra-Terrain 255/55/18 on an 18" Model 3 Aero wheelset and threw them on my MYLR.
Note these are 18, not 19" tires, and you have 19" Gemini wheels. Which I have also, but I chose to get another wheelset because I want mostly to run the Gemini's.
I may re-think that, as the new BFG's definitely smooth things out. Even though they're over-inflated - 46 psi from the shop install right now.
And they're All Terrain tires, not known to be quiet or smooth riding !!!! But they are. I can barely tell any difference, and wouldn't if not listening hard.
A 255/50/19 would provide a very similar tire dimension to what I mounted today - 1/2" less sidewall, but same width and diameter.
And that added sidewall seems to make a substantial difference. You can look at the attachment for the dimensional comparison, and go to that website to play with numbers.
You'll find that going to a wider tire will also get more sidewall, but....the 255/55/18 has just 1/8" clearance at full lock.
Full lock is rarely ever done, and certainly not at speed (Full lock is the steering wheel turned all the way in one direction). But you shouldn't get a 29" diameter tire wider than 10".
In summary, I would suggest that when you wear out your OEM tires (or they wear you out), pick a replacement set that's 255/50/19. Whatever brand you prefer.
Net cost is the tires....maybe $800-1000. You're in the Carolinas so I'm not sure you do snow tires, but that's a thought too. Try that size in snows.
BTW, the BFG's I mounted are 3-Peak Mountain snow-rated too.
Costs - $212 at America's Tire (Discount Tire Shops nationally), and the Aero wheels net cost me $100 each. Unfortunately, the shop demanded I get TPMS sensors - 75 each.
Critical dimension guides:
1. Steering knuckle (ball joint centered above the tire on the upper wishbone) is the diameter limiter. You must not rub on that. The 29" tire has 3/8 clearance - very good.
2. Full lock steering wheel rotation provides the width limit info - you don't want to rub the wheel well. The 29" x 10" tire has 1/8" clearance at full lock - good enough.
3. Wheel (rim) width (not diameter) should be compatible with the tire width. Tire specs will guide what wheel size is applicable, +/- 1/2 inch is okay.
4. Wheel offset needs to be compatible with the suspension. This is a bit more nuanced, but if you use the factory wheels, you're good.
5. Any wheel you use must provide clearance for the brake calipers (the M3 18" Aero wheelset does NOT clear the bigger MYP brake calipers).
Finally
I'll check in after a couple more days playing with this setup. But
- I've already run thru severe roadway dips (rain troughs) that used to bounce me like hell. Not any more...
- I've run smooth pavement, looking for increased noise. Nope !!
- I've run uneven pavement, and the jangling has become muted.
There are limits to the MYLR chassis that only a longer wheelbase would help.
There are limits to what the stock dampers / springs can achieve, which can only be improved via UPP, MPP, Redwood suspension kits costing $3-5K.
So taller tires with more sidewall are, so far, looking like a very good approach to the problem.
tiresize.com
