Wrong on all 3 guesses. I had a good friend with battery pack injury and battery pack failure. It seems to me you are super defensive about feedback outside your experiences or at odds with all your assumptions. People are just trying to provide you with a friendly warning that battery pack failure is not something you want to get within a 100 yd of - particularly if the insurance company and/or Tesla can argue rightly that it's actually your fault.
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MountainPass Performance Comfort Coilovers
- Thread starter noshadow
- Start date
fair enough, but I honesty believe it to be a very outlier possibility, and I see your persistence as unnecessary.
FWIW. We had the HV battery pack fail on the car, and a big issue (in addition to mere $$) is thei time it take for Tesla to ID a replacement pack and get the work done. In our case, it was 6-7 weeks, but could have gone longer. I would not do anything that risk voiding warranty due to modifications as Tesla can then argue they are not responsible.
I've had the experience of running over road debris, in our 2019 Avalon. Downpour, reduced visibility, deep puddling, an aluminum "RoadConstruction" sign had blown over in my path. Hit it at about 30mph. It jammed underneath the car, on a cross member. No damage, but if it had been my Tesla MY, it would have impacted the leading edge of the battery pack/plumbing.
Re: insurance. Another incident. I struck a shoebox sized block of concrete that the car in front of me had kicked up. It went through the grill of our 2014 Avalon Hybrid, crushing the HV coolant radiator. Insurance agent was adamant that if it was on the ground, it would be considered "at fault", but since it was airborne, it was "no fault."
For $300, an aluminum skid plate is cheap insurance.
YMMV.
Re: insurance. Another incident. I struck a shoebox sized block of concrete that the car in front of me had kicked up. It went through the grill of our 2014 Avalon Hybrid, crushing the HV coolant radiator. Insurance agent was adamant that if it was on the ground, it would be considered "at fault", but since it was airborne, it was "no fault."
For $300, an aluminum skid plate is cheap insurance.
YMMV.
This thread took a little bit of a detour! Agreeing to disagree is probably the best route here because from what I can see, no one is going to change their mind or have it changed for them.
The lowest I have seen is $400 and the highest I have seen is $2000. It really varies based on where you live and the door rate of the shop you choose. I would consider $800 to be fair if it includes an alignment.
You can raise the kit up to 426mm hub to fender, which would net you roughly an inch of compression travel without going so high that you compromise droop travel. Just note that if you make a big ride height change like that, an alignment will be necessary!
I've had my MPP coilovers installed for about 8 months. I am getting ready to do some height adjustments. Is there any harm in spraying the threads with some silicon spray to make turning the perch easier? I was reading the instructions that said to make sure the threads were clean before adjusting.
Please clarify for those that might not know:
426mm from hub CENTER to fender lip, right?
Thanks.
You could do that, but make sure you wash it off after, because the reduced friction can cause the spring to move and noise.
Yes, from the very middle of the wheel to the fender! Here is a picture from Google showing it:
@MountainPass While we are discussing ride height, to get back to stock could we measure from the ground to the battery pack at the points specified by Tesla (75mm in from the jack points on Model Y) and raise the car to measure 182mm (Tesla spec) at those points?
Not at all. "Preloading" the spring and causing a harsh ride is a common misconception. The only way you'll end up with a firmer ride is if you lower the car significantly (decreasing compression travel) or raise the car significantly above stock (decreasing droop travel). You can turn the spring perch and preload the spring all you want, but when you set the car down, it will compress it to the length it will be at with ~1000 lbs on it, regardless of how much you compressed it with the spring perch.
Wreckz
Member
Question, does the front struts have a locking or not locking washer before installing the two lock nuts? Watched 2 videos and one doesn’t seem like he had one, whereas the other did?
I’m asking because I’m hearing a noise now and retorqued the top nut (and top hat nuts). I did a bounce test and I can feel my front right strut is loose still.
I’m asking because I’m hearing a noise now and retorqued the top nut (and top hat nuts). I did a bounce test and I can feel my front right strut is loose still.
There are no washers required since there is a 2 nut setup there. If you can feel it is loose, I would suggest removing the top nut, torquing the bottom nut, then torquing the top nut, all at ride height. If you do this at droop, the downward tension on the damper shaft will make your torque wrench click prematurely. The hardest part of this procedure will be making sure your damper shaft isn't spinning, but usually, it cooperates!
Wreckz
Member
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