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MountainPass Performance Comfort Coilovers

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In case you all had any questions about MPP customer service, they have already gotten back to me with instructions on how to re-attach the knob. It looks like the plastic lock ring popped out. Simple fix.

More importantly, I went 2mm lower in front a d 6mm in rear. Perfection! I also took some friends for a spin who were complaining about the ride on their MYLR. I'm at 13/12 in front and 11/9 in back. They could easily feel the difference.

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In case you all had any questions about MPP customer service, they have already gotten back to me with instructions on how to re-attach the knob. It looks like the plastic lock ring popped out. Simple fix.

More importantly, I went 2mm lower in front a d 6mm in rear. Perfection! I also took some friends for a spin who were complaining about the ride on their MYLR. I'm at 13/12 in front and 11/9 in back. They could easily feel the difference.

View attachment 914518
Glad to hear. Thanks for the follow up!
 
You referred to the knob being a "little stiff." I have encountered this if I haven't made any adjustments for a few thousand miles.

Question for MPP: Is there a way to lube the adjustable mechanism?
I found the same thing when I tried to adjust the lower portion of my front struts. I tapped it with a hole punch (gently). After it moved the first time it was fine, but still needs to be lubed somehow. Can we spray it with silicone?
 
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I found the same thing when I tried to adjust the lower portion of my front struts. I tapped it with a hole punch (gently). After it moved the first time it was fine, but still needs to be lubed somehow. Can we spray it with silicone?

Same here. Couldn't adjust my fronts after several thousand km. The dial seemed seized. Couldn't seem to move it with gentle taps of a tool either.
 
The detents in the knob face upward, so salt and dirt can find their way in there and prevent the detent ball from moving up and down to create the clicking feeling. The knob is easy to remove and clean out if you need to. If that doesn't work, we have created our own bump knobs for harsh climates that utilize a rubber seal to prevent this issue from happening. The bump knob design is shared across all the KW BMW-style dampers but we have never seen anyone totally resolve the issue with a different knob design like we did! You can shoot us an email if you're having this issue and we can get you sorted out with no problem.
 
In case you all had any questions about MPP customer service, they have already gotten back to me with instructions on how to re-attach the knob. It looks like the plastic lock ring popped out. Simple fix.

More importantly, I went 2mm lower in front a d 6mm in rear. Perfection! I also took some friends for a spin who were complaining about the ride on their MYLR. I'm at 13/12 in front and 11/9 in back. They could easily feel the difference.

View attachment 914518
Looks amazing! What PSI are you running your tires at with those settings? I'm thinking of increasing stiffness from my current setting of 14/14 F, 14/12 R and dropping my PSI to 37 or 38.
 
Looks amazing! What PSI are you running your tires at with those settings? I'm thinking of increasing stiffness from my current setting of 14/14 F, 14/12 R and dropping my PSI to 37 or 38.
When you drop your tire pressures down into the high 30s or even 35-36 lbs then you can really crank the shocks without the ride getting too flinty. We run 36 lb and my wife's car is 12/10 with comfort adjustables and I've got the sport adjustable set at 10/8. Her car's ride is actually quite amazing. That's the default setting according to MPP, but it's a wonderful blend of handling, turn in and very smooth ride. Obviously those tire pressures are not great for range and we do crank them up on trips but for around town where we don't really care, you really get the best handling and a better ride from the Pilot Sport 4S in the mid-30s.
 
Maybe I should have been more specific. 😆

I did see those posts but it does not intruct you how to put it back in, only that it is "easy" to remove.

Do you insert the dial first then the plastic retainer (recessed side facing upwards)?

Does the retainer snap in and is that what holds it in place? What tool is recommended to snap it in?
 
FWIW, I've had an opportunity to drive a few Model Y's with the new "Comfort" Suspension. I've also driven several with the "Old Suspension", and my wife's Y currently has MPP's on it. Keep in mind these are just my personal observations/opinions.

In my opinion, Tesla's new "Comfort" suspension is actually worse than the outgoing suspension. Let me explain. Tesla appears to have basically just softened the damping and spring rates. But, nothing else was changed. So, while the suspension is arguably "softer", it doesn't improve the ride quality at all. The damping is still quite bad, and now the car actually has a tendency to "bounce" over road imperfections which makes driving a rather uninspiring experience. Large road imperfections are just as bad as they have always been, with a pronounced "jarring" effect. Basically, the problem with the "Old Suspension", which was concerning ride quality over large road imperfections. potholes, or other substantial suspension travel events is still present, and now there is the compounding frustration of a floaty/bouncy effect. A bit annoying, for sure. I imagine over very smooth roads it's an improvement, but that was never really the problem to begin with. It reminds me of the BMW F30 chassis, which if you are familiar, was very floaty, and a complete departure from the previous generation E90, which I much preferred.

At the root of the suspension comfort concern lies the fact that the suspension is very much carry-over from the Model 3 which is ~400lbs lighter and had a trunk that was separated from the rest of the cabin. While there is no issue with the Model 3 suspension, it is just a pretty stiff design to begin with that transmits a fair amount of NVH into the chassis. Adding weight doesn't seem to have helped. Then, with the Model Y's large open trunk area, you get a lot more noise from the rear that reverberates through the rest of the passenger cabin area, compounding the NVH effect. I would like to stress that I actually really like the Model 3/Y suspension design overall, and it's a really enjoyable car to drive as a result, but there's no doubt that it does have more NVH than you might expect for the target market.

All of that being said, dampers/springs are only one part of the equation. I have been very happy with the MPP's on my wife's car and I feel they ride considerably better than either the old suspension or the new "Comfort" suspension. This is likely due to the fact that the dampers themselves are of significantly higher quality and have more travel. That all being said, I don't feel that they are really "softer" than Tesla's "Comfort Suspension", and I think it's an important distinction to separate stiffness and ride quality, as they do not go hand in hand. I think it's also important to understand what MPP was trying to achieve, which, as mentioned in the great post above, was not to make the Model Y ride like a Cadillac - which is likely impossible given the stiffness and NVH characteristics of all the other parts that make up the suspension/chassis of the Model Y (Control Arms, Bushings, Subframes, Ball Joints, Sound Deadening, etc). MPP achieved what I think is great Ride Quality and Sportiness, and is clearly (IMO) a much better setup than either of Tesla's iterations. To conclude, the point is that softer does not just equal better.
If we are looking for better ride quality in 2023 are we looking. To improve suspension or downgrade to 19 inch tires / wheels? I have the inductions 20 inch and I feel like I feel everything and loose things in my car just vibrate like my garage door opener. I feel I am losing my mind . But say you had 3-4k to invest in ride quality. What would you do with it?
 
If we are looking for better ride quality in 2023 are we looking. To improve suspension or downgrade to 19 inch tires / wheels? I have the inductions 20 inch and I feel like I feel everything and loose things in my car just vibrate like my garage door opener. I feel I am losing my mind . But say you had 3-4k to invest in ride quality. What would you do with it?
I'm biased, but have zero regrets with the MPP Comfort coilovers (now with 34k miles), or whatever they call them now. I kept the 19s, thinking I might go to 18s, but for the moment thinking the MPP switch is right for me.

Jesse at MPP responds quickly to questions and will give you excellent advice.
 
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If we are looking for better ride quality in 2023 are we looking. To improve suspension or downgrade to 19 inch tires / wheels? I have the inductions 20 inch and I feel like I feel everything and loose things in my car just vibrate like my garage door opener. I feel I am losing my mind . But say you had 3-4k to invest in ride quality. What would you do with it?
I went from 19s to 18s with oversized tires and the comfort improvement was minimal. I think to see substantial comfort improvement you need to do something more drastic. I'll find out soon if that thought is correct. :)