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My car's fuzzy range math

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No, have not pre-heated or pre-cooled, nor run the ac while car is off.
My responses were directed to the OP, or the issue the OP was seeing.

There's no way from the car to tell how efficient/inefficient the charging was.The car only tells you how much makes it to the car and is spent by the car. Not how much was used to generate the amount put into the battery. You'd need some way tomeasure electricity at the wall and compare that to the car.
 
Wow, I have been using about 300 Wh/mile. Most of the time at low speed, it drops below 300, but if I am running at 75 mph with the air conditioning running and the stereo blasting it goes to 320. I don't seem to able to get to 350 using the 30 mile average. But then I don't have the performance version.
I have no problems getting to more than 400 Wh/mile. Easy. My current average is more than 350 with hardly any freeway driving.
 
Where is this number from?

"Rated" = EPA 5-Cycle Certified Range = 265 miles

  • 85kWh / 265mi. = 320 Wh/mi.

Tesla doesn't actually give you access to all 85kWh. They won't say how much is in reserve, but consensus on the boards (don't recall how it was determined) has been that we have access to somewhere around 81.5kWh. 81.5/265 = 308Wh/mi.
 
Where is this number from?

"Ideal" = Estimated Range at 55 mph = 300 miles
  • 85kWh / 300mi. = 283 Wh/mi.


"Rated" = EPA 5-Cycle Certified Range = 265 miles
  • 85kWh / 265mi. = 320 Wh/mi.

My Energy graph shows a "Rated" line at 300 Wh/mi.

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My responses were directed to the OP, or the issue the OP was seeing.

There's no way from the car to tell how efficient/inefficient the charging was.The car only tells you how much makes it to the car and is spent by the car. Not how much was used to generate the amount put into the battery. You'd need some way tomeasure electricity at the wall and compare that to the car.

I wasn't using the car while off, either. well, except for maybe a minute or two of putting stuff into / out of the car while parked.
The way the car's climate control turns on full blast when you open the passenger door to put something in the car and then shuts completely off as soon as you shut the door, well, the logic strikes me as odd, but that's a whole other ball of wax.

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I guess on the whole, 11 miles of vampire activity over 15 hours is somewhat reasonable and probably explains most of my discrepancies.
 
My Energy graph shows a "Rated" line at 300 Wh/mi.
Ah, ok. I think mine shows it slightly above 300.
RatedLine.png
 
I personally wish there was an option to display a simple old fashioned gas gauge with and E and an F with no calculator, it would be kind of retro and help get people out of the mindset of being exact with range predictions, it's just not possible except on flat open roads with constant wind and temps.

+1, or at least let the user input a factor to adjust the value displayed with the speedometer.

The rated range is misleading for me. It's hard to explain to passengers the expected discrepancy. I was in San Diego last week and the car was showing 40 miles (rated) left. My brother wanted to take a side trip that was ~25 miles with another 10 miles to his home. Yes, 35 is less than 40 I told him. I'm then trying to explain why I really only expect ~25 miles of range left on the car. I didn't have the numbers in my head. After the fact I did some calculations and found that city driving gives me ~0.63 actual of the rated range, freeway driving gives me 0.78 to 0.86. Clearly my driving style and the HVAC usage etc. is just not being accounted for in the estimated/rated range on the main display. I'd really rather have the display show a more conservative number based on real usage. My thought is that an algorithm should determine an average point to point trip length and use a sliding window of energy usage with that length to calculate the worst case expected range to display (based on remaining battery energy). More desirable is to use some fuzzy logic to bin the above information so as to estimate city and freeway values to display.

However it is done, we do need more relevant information to decide on trip options. In the long run, it has to be something the average person would understand. I would submit that displaying a calculate range value has got to mean that value can be relied upon. Given varying driving habits, the current method is not accurate and will lead to angry customers. Until this is fixed, a simple kWh display showing available energy (i.e. not including the Tesla reserve) is more factual and, due to the different units used, less likely to be mislead the driver. This is true even though I believe 'remaining kWh' would still need to be a calculated value (gauge display with E&F or digital value aside).
 
Projected range (in older firmware) used to give us functionality like you're describing -- in place of the Rated/Ideal below the speedometer you had the choice of Projected/Rated. I still missed Projected from when they removed it. It's about the only feature I miss from each of the firmware upgrades I've had so far. (I don't miss Sleep mode because it never really worked well enough or me to leave on.)