sevolution8228
Member
Thank you so much!I live in Wisconsin. Best bet is proper snow tires. I use Blizzaks. If you can't do that, get some snow rated (not just all season) all weather tires like Vredestein or Michelins.
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Thank you so much!I live in Wisconsin. Best bet is proper snow tires. I use Blizzaks. If you can't do that, get some snow rated (not just all season) all weather tires like Vredestein or Michelins.
Thank you! Greatly appreciate the insight and suggestion.Get some good snow tires (xIce SNOW or Blizzaks or VikingContact) and it’ll be awesome.
Did you ever receive a response to this? I'm in Minnesota as well. Just signed up for Holiday gas station car wash only to go through and have the dreaded rainbow swirls. I'm now taking WD-40 to the trim after the wash but like you, living here we cannot hand wash in the winter. Curious if only certain touchless washes leave the marks because I hadn't seen that in previous touchless washes but my local one is causing issues. Of course.So I’ve tried to scan through the 10 pages of this thread and I have a question - has anyone just wiped down their trim upon exiting the car wash before it has a chance to dry? Does this help avoid the issue? Just wondering if it’s more of a residue or an actual reaction.
Coming up on winter in Minnesota. I am planning to try rinseless washes in my garage (or maybe a spray down rinse at a self serve coin wash to get the worst off, followed by the rinseless), but January and February will be brutal. Don’t want to use a touchless or automatic if I can avoid it, but if a simple wipe down after will help avoid the problem I’ll give it a shot.
Hi! Also in Minnesota - used the Holiday here in Buffalo so not far from you. Same issue. I know this is an older thread but have you had any luck finding a different touchless wash locally?I got this today also from a touchless car wash... noticing you're in MN, maybe we got it at the same car wash LOL. Holiday in Elk River. Glad to know it's only going to get worse.
View attachment 552943
Pic shows original untreated trim. Trim on left shows discoloring, trim on right is as good as day 1. All trim attached to same car going through car washes. So what is different?Same issue, same theory by Tesla, but I have 1 piece of trim that shows no issue. Seams more like a manufacturing batch issue from the trim supplier
How “deep” is the anodized layer one might wonder…So I noticed if you rub really hard with your finger it does kind of comes off. So I took my 3m tape residue remover wheel which took it right off. Makes sense as folks are using turtle wax polish, stainless steel polish, and other things with mild abrasives to get it off and something like soap doesn't work.
I'd try this before someone shells out $$ to get the trim replaced which seems really unnecessary.
Link below if you want to see what I used. Same tool used to take off 3m mounting tape so folks that have done external body modifications, debadging, etc will probably know what this is or have used it as well. It is safe for you car, just don't keep it in one spot long.
3M Stripe Off Wheel Adhesive Remover Eraser Wheel Removes Decals, Stripes, Vinyl, Tapes and Graphics 4” diameter x 5/8” thick 3/8-16 threaded mandrel 07498 Pack of 1 https://a.co/d/0pCfemn
Did it come back the next day? It does that on my Model Y after removing the oily, iridescent film. Personally, I think it's substandard trim decomposing in sunlight and/or outgassing over time, similar to how cheap recycled chinese black rubber and plastic products often do.Nothing chemical or otherwise worked for me. I found a perfect method that requires no chemicals or microfiber towels.
I found that sweat aided in the process so as your rubbing just touch your hand to the sweat of your brow. Sounds weird but it took me all of 5 minutes to restore all my trim.
I wanted to send an update. So far I have tried the Orange degreaser from chemical guys and meguiars hyper dressing. Back to Black hasn't arrived yet. The orange degreaser helped, but the pattern was clearly still there. Maybe I needed to use more and rub harder. The Mequiars hyper dressing made it look much better, almost as good as before. I can still sort of see a little of the soap pattern, but it is very hard to see. I don't know how long it will last, but I will keep you updated.
I used WD40 on a microfiber towel and it turned out pretty good. I'm going to wait a couple of days then apply 303 Aerospace Protectant
Nothing chemical or otherwise worked for me. I found a perfect method that requires no chemicals or microfiber towels.
I found that sweat aided in the process so as your rubbing just touch your hand to the sweat of your brow. Sounds weird but it took me all of 5 minutes to restore all my trim
Once the anodized coating’s sealant is removed, there’s nothing that can be done to permanently restore it. All the fixes people suggest in here are just temporary cover-ups. The only permanent fix is replacement, period.I'd like to know in each of these cases how long the "fixes" lasted? The oily residue film comes back on the trim of my nearly two-year old 2020 Model Y within hours or a day of trying to clean it. I think it's the trim or paint decomposing or outgassing, guys.
Yep. I think the best bet would be to get it wrapped (chrome delete) since then you should be able to use touchless car washes.Once the anodized coating’s sealant is removed, there’s nothing that can be done to permanently restore it. All the fixes people suggest in here are just temporary cover-ups. The only permanent fix is replacement, period.
A PPF shop can apply black vinyl (like a chrome delete) to mimic the original appearance, which is probably the best solution here since Tesla uses such an inferior coating that is subject to easy failure.
Once the anodized coating’s sealant is removed, there’s nothing that can be done to permanently restore it. All the fixes people suggest in here are just temporary cover-ups. The only permanent fix is replacement, period.
A PPF shop can apply black vinyl (like a chrome delete) to mimic the original appearance, which is probably the best solution here since Tesla uses such an inferior coating that is subject to easy failure.
I used chemical guys ceramic coating and it didn't last a single wash. I just don't think the ceramic bonds well to the metal, and the pH of the chemicals just kicks the butt of almost everything. Acid and bases are pretty hard to protect against...Someone mentioned that DIY ceramic coating prevents staining. This is possible since ceramic has chemical resistance property. Of course, ceramic coat will eventually wear down but if it can prevent staining for 2 or 3 years then it is a great fix. I ordered Gyeon ceramic coating. Let's see this will work.
Ceramic coating will do nothing to help this situation because they are not designed to react to this substrate. They will act more like a wax and provide minimal short-lived protection.Someone mentioned that DIY ceramic coating prevents staining. This is possible since ceramic has chemical resistance property. Of course, ceramic coat will eventually wear down but if it can prevent staining for 2 or 3 years then it is a great fix. I ordered Gyeon ceramic coating. Let's see this will work.
I think this damage has been pretty tightly linked to aggressive pH differences.I don't do car washes, so I won't need to worry about the chemical issues. But... I do wonder if through time, rain and sun will do the same damage eventually to the trim. Anyone here with discoloration issues with basically doing no chemicals and no car washes -- just rain, sun, and hosing off their cars?
Same as mine, Formula 303 restores shine until next wash, even hand washes . Interestingly passenger door trim does not get it.I have a 2022 M3 and it does in fact have discoloration!