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My tesla reverts back to 48 AMP on its own after I configure 30 amps max charge after 5 mn (NO wall charger).
- Thread starter Laureninusa
- Start date
In order for us to even speculate what might be wrong, there needs to be a lot more data provided.
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
You can’t charge at 30 amps on a 30 amp circuit, only 24 amps. So that’s problem #1.
Whatever you’re using to charge should enforce this 24 amp limit, but clearly isn’t. Thats problem #2.
If you want help, provide more info and pictures of your charging setup. There’s nothing at all to go on here.
Whatever you’re using to charge should enforce this 24 amp limit, but clearly isn’t. Thats problem #2.
If you want help, provide more info and pictures of your charging setup. There’s nothing at all to go on here.
More details would be helpful, but if you are using adaptors sold by Tesla it should not ever revert.
If you are using a homemade stack of adaptors to 14-50 and then using a Tesla 14-50 adaptor to the car, the amp setting is dependant on the GPS location and it can sometimes be flakey.
Exactly how are you plugging in? If it's for regular use, I'd definitely start using Tesla adaptors.
If you are using a homemade stack of adaptors to 14-50 and then using a Tesla 14-50 adaptor to the car, the amp setting is dependant on the GPS location and it can sometimes be flakey.
Exactly how are you plugging in? If it's for regular use, I'd definitely start using Tesla adaptors.
RayK
Active Member
What it sounds like is that you are not using a Tesla Mobile Connector (the thing that plugs into a socket on the wall and is usually mistakenly called a "charger"), nor a Tesla Wall Connector (mounted permanently on the wall and not plugged into an outlet), but some kind of third-party charging equipment (typically called an EVSE).
As outlined above by others, a photo would help immensely. Show us the outlet (with nothing plugged into it) so that the "holes" are visible (so we can determine what type of outlet it is, and therefore, confirm what the maximum amps you can get out of it), the EVSE, and any intermediate cabling.
I believe that it is normal that the car reverts back to showing 48A when charging is interrupted. Usually after the successful completion of a charging session, the car will remember what the maximum current is for that location. I don't charge at home myself, but that's what I recall reading here.
As outlined above by others, a photo would help immensely. Show us the outlet (with nothing plugged into it) so that the "holes" are visible (so we can determine what type of outlet it is, and therefore, confirm what the maximum amps you can get out of it), the EVSE, and any intermediate cabling.
I believe that it is normal that the car reverts back to showing 48A when charging is interrupted. Usually after the successful completion of a charging session, the car will remember what the maximum current is for that location. I don't charge at home myself, but that's what I recall reading here.
ATPMSD
Active Member
@Laureninusa
Others have suggested photos so here is a list of what is needed:
Others have suggested photos so here is a list of what is needed:
- Confirm you are using the Tesla Mobile Connector. If not what are you using?
- Confirm the outlet is protect by a 2-pole, 30-amp GFCI breaker (provide a photo it at all unsure)
- A photo of the outlet itself
- A photo of the Tesla adapter cable, specifically a view of the wall plug
- Are you using anything in addition to the Tesla adapter?
You're giving us nothing to go on to help you. A properly set up charging solution should enforce the amps properly and not let the car overdraw anything at all, so maybe you are using some hacked together stuff that shouldn't be that way.
The other possibility, which I saw recently in another thread is that you are misunderstanding what you're seeing in the car:
When the car is not connected, it will just default on the display to showing the maximum capability of the onboard charger, which is 48A. So if you were charging, and then the breaker trips for whatever reason, that disconnects it. With it disconnected, the car perceives that as not plugged in, so the display flips back to the default 48A, which doesn't have anything to do with whatever the problem in your circuit was.
The other possibility, which I saw recently in another thread is that you are misunderstanding what you're seeing in the car:
When the car is not connected, it will just default on the display to showing the maximum capability of the onboard charger, which is 48A. So if you were charging, and then the breaker trips for whatever reason, that disconnects it. With it disconnected, the car perceives that as not plugged in, so the display flips back to the default 48A, which doesn't have anything to do with whatever the problem in your circuit was.
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