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MYLR has same motors as MYP

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So I was toying with getting the performance vs the LR and my Tesla SA told me that the only difference was the 1/2 lower with stiffer suspension, bigger wheels by 1” and an unlocked software for the motor to pump out that little extra juice to make it go faster. He explained that they are the same motors and is why you can make your LR go faster by installing a software boost for 2k to get it to go faster. He was like, most people believe that the motors are somehow better, but I face they are the same. Well, I saved my self 10k … I don’t need to have a stiffer suspension or bigger wheels to feel every bump in the road and to go that fast when I can spend a fraction of that to get it close with the boost. I bought a mat black spoiler for $95 and red calipers for $200. Thinking of getting some coil overs for about 2k to make them adjust to a smoother ride.
 
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Look at VIN decoder. 8th digit. Motor/Drive Unit. LR = E, P = F
LR has 990 motor, P has 980 motor, IIRC
Motors are different on my 2021. I had wanted to get the ghost mod but got AB after I discovered I did not have the correct rear motor.

But his SA said it, and we know that all SA's are experts and all of them are honest :D

Keith
 
What version of XBox controller is needed for that? And is that while rubbing your tummy in a CW or CCW manner? 🤪
I think it works best with an 8 bit NES controller. It’s finding the 8 bit NES to USB-C adapter that is the challenge.
 

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So I was toying with getting the performance vs the LR and my Tesla SA told me that the only difference was the 1/2 lower with stiffer suspension, bigger wheels by 1” and an unlocked software for the motor to pump out that little extra juice to make it go faster. He explained that they are the same motors and is why you can make your LR go faster by installing a software boost for 2k to get it to go faster. He was like, most people believe that the motors are somehow better, but I face they are the same. Well, I saved my self 10k … I don’t need to have a stiffer suspension or bigger wheels to feel every bump in the road and to go that fast when I can spend a fraction of that to get it close with the boost. I bought a mat black spoiler for $95 and red calipers for $200. Thinking of getting some coil overs for about 2k to make them adjust to a smoother ride.

Actually the price difference is $8K now, then $2K for the boost - so $6K and then really down to $4K if you wanted the 20" instead of the 19". That said, if I was to do it over again (or in hindsight) I don't know if I would have sprung for the performance version. At the time (over a year ago now) they didn't have the performance boost option and most people were expecting what they did with the M3P would carry over to MYP (adding track mode, tuning it a bit faster etc.) that never happened. Also while the 21" look fantastic I found the ride too harsh and ended up swapping them out for different wheels anyway and there wasn't much resale market for the 21s.
 
He explained that they are the same motors and is why you can make your LR go faster by installing a software boost for 2k to get it to go faster.

@Frisco Texas your SA would have been correct in very early production (spring 2020 basically) units. For whatever reason, Tesla used the upgraded front motor on the early LR vehicles and software locked it. However, that was changed part way through the 2020 model year and is definitely no longer the case.

The boost that you can buy does make the LR faster than without the boost upgrade, but still slower than an MYP. Honestly, in day to day driving, unless you're planning to race sports cars from a traffic light, you're probably going to be just fine with even a non-boosted LR.
 
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