I'm wondering what the additional $1500 is going to for my 2014 60 quote? Mine shows $600 and change for the unit and then $6k for an assembly at the end. I'm quite positive they didn't install some special assembly in my 2014 60!!!
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Need Help: Rear Drive Unit Replacement $6k
- Thread starter dwoo0418
- Start date
airborne spoon
Active Member
Different part numbers I got the remanufactured motor you're getting quoted for a new one that's like $1500 more expensive.
Also that first 600 bucks is the labor cost on you're estimate.
Also mine is a large sport motor you have the base motor so I don't if they sell remanufactured ones of those but it's worth asking about to save a few bucks because a new sport motor is like 6k so it's strange a new base motor is the same price.
geordi
Mr Fusion V.1
They are the same rear drive unit - my non performance base model S has the same LDU that the P85 of my other S has.
ucmndd
Well-Known Member
The inverter is different, hence the different part numbers.
I’m sure you could probably use a “sport” in place of “base” but probably not the other way around.
I had thought they were identical units. When I pressed "Jason" the virtual diagnostic tech about the difference in cost for the 2 part #'s he had no answer this morning. He kept stating that taxes, labor rates, good will, etc. could play a part in the cost difference. Lol, I wasn't having it. I was able to get a hold of someone on the phone at the Mesa, AZ SC. They're looking into what other options I have other then the new $6k base unit I was quoted. An hour after hanging up I got a message from Jason in the app stating that they were looking to see if there are any cheaper replacement options.
I'm going to have to fix this thing 1 way or another.....but I'm not approving that $7500 repair estimate until I'm positive there's no cheaper option. I intended to get rid of the car within the next 6 months. This is terrible timing.
I'm going to have to fix this thing 1 way or another.....but I'm not approving that $7500 repair estimate until I'm positive there's no cheaper option. I intended to get rid of the car within the next 6 months. This is terrible timing.
I think that is the prudent approach. I've heard that some Service Centers quote/charge differing prices and services. Apparently folks near Miami seem to be charged a premium, folks around Dublin, Ca can't get their SC to sell them a new 350V 85kW battery pack, but the SC near Berkeley is happy to do it.
I'm seeing this now. I just moved to Arizona from Indiana this past April. I've had my car at the SC in Castleton, IN on more then 1 occasion for small things. Those repairs were all sub $1k fixes, It was out of warranty every time and I was offered a loaner everytime. This time I'm being asked to pay $7500 and when I asked about a loaner at drop off once this is settled I was told that Tesla doesn't provide loaners for out of warranty repairs!! Huh?
I love my car and as of this moment still intend to purchase another Tesla, albeit new this time, next year. But every moment that passes I'm beginning to rethink that decision to be honest.
Interesting what you got last month was a Reman Rev T according to PN which I'm pretty sure still runs coolant through the rotor. Rev U (no coolant through the rotor) is in catalog now but I guess takes a few months to cycle through logistics.
Probably desirable to get Rev U if one believes Tesla's rotor coolant delete mod has robust longevity. It will certainly not have the leak problem. Question is does higher thermals on a aluminum copper squirrel cage rotor reduce longevity in relation to other parts of the car (say HV battery)
geordi
Mr Fusion V.1
What would be considered too hot? When running at highway speed and towing, monitoring the temperatures I have seen rotor (edit, possibly stator - I'm tired) numbers of 265 or so. Nothing else in the temperature system is close to that number. I have not had any drive unit replacements.
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There is no rotor temp sensor that I'm aware of. There is a stator temp sensor which is probably what you saw. On longevity, probably need induction motor dev engineer to attempt to answer. Found some literature but just general summaries
Could consider Tesla properly performed longevity analysis+test. But historical seal+rotor shaft reman revision's poor track records don't inspire much confidence.
New estimate arrived this morning, this time with a reman LDU. I'll be dropping it off Monday morning and we'll tussle over the loaner situation at that point.
Your post made me feel a little better about it all seeing that the intended reman replacement LDU is indeed the "U" version. The NEXT owner sometime in 2024 might appreciate this fact.
I have same issue with 2014 model S85 with 94878 miles, but tesla wants almost $10,000 to replace the LDU which was replaced under original warranty in 12/20, at 62000 miles lasted less than 3 years. What a lose lose situation.Just stumbled upon this thread whipe searching for alternatives to the $7.5k estimate Tesla is quoting me for the replacement of the LDU. 2014 60 with 131k miles.
I had no idea that this was a known issue. The drive unit was replaced by the previous owner ~ 1 year before I bought it, so less then 3 yrs ago now. This just happened last night and all of my options are awful. Option 1) pay Tesla $7500 for what seems as though it'll be a reman unit. 2) I live in AZ and Gruber Motors will replace it with a used unit for 6-7k. Lol, yeah right. 3) Source my own unit and pay Gruber ~ $800 for installation.
I had planned to sell/trade it in next year for a new LR Model 3 and sinking $7.5k into it seems like a terrible idea. Why would they be quoting me that as opposed to the $6k or less that I'm seeing others have been quoted in this thread?
Can you post quote detail? Most quote I see is about $7k. Maybe they are adding some suspension items..
Also note I’ve read cars that had both high priced failures (drive unit and battery) one after another so need to consider that before thinking 1 repair will last awhile. Could encounter double whammy. New battery is $20-23k. Tesla refurb battery seems poor quality control.
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This right here...this is my biggest fear in all of this. I've been a Recurrent member since I bought the car and my battery seems to be ok according to them. But who's to say that doesn't change the day after I cut this check for the LDU? I had planned to let the S go after the 1st of the year, cut a check for the difference between sale price and what the bank is owed, and use the point of sale tax credit on a new LR 3. The $6500 LDU has me thinking a RWD 3 might be ok now.....but a battery issue.
My options were all bad, I still owe on the car. I'm in AZ so it was either pay Gruber 4-5k for a used replacement with no warranty that I had to source (if I found the LDU and had it shipped to them they'd have installed it for ~$800. The cheapest used LDU I could find in reasonable shape was around $3k before shipping).....or pay $6500 for this reman LDU via Tesla with a 4yr 50k warranty.
I think I'm listing it once the repair is done.
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