Hey zhur0002, take a look at post 57 with those links I included and see if that's helpful. That liability release form seems like Tesla already has some sort of policy for inspecting vehicles. Maybe it's a matter of contacting the right person at Tesla as I can't see them contracting a very public statement they made to the media. Here was an official statement from someone at Tesla saying they would inspect that vehicle:
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I followed that story it broke out about a week after I bought my car. First thing I did when I received my car is call tesla parts and asked if I could order some parts they asked for the vin#, I gave them the vin# they told me that this is a dead car and they will not sell any parts. I asked what I needed to do they said I need to contact their certified body shop and they should be able to fix it. Certified body shop said sure we will fix it but we want to do the entire fix, understandable I would do the same if someone came to my shop. Than 2 days later the GM calls me from the certified body shop and tells me that Tesla does not give him permission to work on a salvage car (I think someone very high up at Tesla does not understand the difference between salvage and a junk car). I was not very excited about the certified body shop doing all the work anyways I have seen quality of their work and we can do better additionally it would cost a lot more.
I have the original estimate the one that determined the car's title status so I know how much parts from tesla would cost and how much the certified body shop was charging for their services. The total estimate was for $49k, I should note there was no battery damage or any HV system damage in the estimate. Where $23k was the parts cost. Part cost is justifiable they wanted to replace every single part that had a mark on it. It is almost a new car so if I was the original owner I would want the same thing. Now at this point of the game on a repairable car, you don't buy a new headlamp if it has a tab broken you repair the tab, you use used parts also. To make long story short I have acquired about 99% of needed parts for about $4k even if Tesla all the sudden would allow me to buy new parts directly from them it would cost me another $3k to get remainder of the parts. Granted I do have a lot of time into sourcing the parts.
At this point you might be interested where the other $26k came from. This is the monopoly effect. There is 104 hours of advanced tech labor on the estimate. Now remember there is no HV system damage on the car the bat never even needed to be removed from the car! Just to disassemble the car and to see the depth of the damage insurance company got charged $4755! I would have my dismantler disassemble a project like that in about 4 hours I pay him $17 n hour. You get the picture.
My goal is to fix the car myself and show up at the SC with the signed waiver and the car and see what they tell me. Like I said, I know what exactly my car needs and do not need Tesla SC telling me what I already know and sending me to their certified repair facility where they would stick it to me.
I have the original estimate the one that determined the car's title status so I know how much parts from tesla would cost and how much the certified body shop was charging for their services. The total estimate was for $49k, I should note there was no battery damage or any HV system damage in the estimate. Where $23k was the parts cost. Part cost is justifiable they wanted to replace every single part that had a mark on it. It is almost a new car so if I was the original owner I would want the same thing. Now at this point of the game on a repairable car, you don't buy a new headlamp if it has a tab broken you repair the tab, you use used parts also. To make long story short I have acquired about 99% of needed parts for about $4k even if Tesla all the sudden would allow me to buy new parts directly from them it would cost me another $3k to get remainder of the parts. Granted I do have a lot of time into sourcing the parts.
At this point you might be interested where the other $26k came from. This is the monopoly effect. There is 104 hours of advanced tech labor on the estimate. Now remember there is no HV system damage on the car the bat never even needed to be removed from the car! Just to disassemble the car and to see the depth of the damage insurance company got charged $4755! I would have my dismantler disassemble a project like that in about 4 hours I pay him $17 n hour. You get the picture.
My goal is to fix the car myself and show up at the SC with the signed waiver and the car and see what they tell me. Like I said, I know what exactly my car needs and do not need Tesla SC telling me what I already know and sending me to their certified repair facility where they would stick it to me.
In the beginning, you had an HV box issue, but now it seems that by mucking with stuff(without really knowing what you are doing), it's deeper than that. I would start with checking ALL of the fuses first(including the ones in the HV junction box). If everything checks out fine, then the next step would be replacing the HV junction box.
You also mentioned a melted battery connector? Post a pic of it, so we could see what it is you are looking at, because that is definately not normal.
You also mentioned a melted battery connector? Post a pic of it, so we could see what it is you are looking at, because that is definately not normal.
That's why i suggested removing the 3G card--once they put that vin on the disabled list it will turn the car off when it next talks to it. So when the 12 volt battery was fixed and powered up the system, it turned on the 3G and allowed them to send the disable charging command which turns it into a dead car. The charger, like almost everything else on the car, is on the CAN bus, and it has internal relays to control powering up the logic board and will only charge when commanded over CAN.
i don't think you damaged anything, there is plenty of heatsink aluminum in the charger for the FETs and diodes to handle 1400 watts, plus there is a thermistor on the FETs that would shut the charger off if the temperature got too high. i have repaired several EV 1.5kW chargers and all were damaged by high internal temperature events.
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spaceballs
Member
I'm still trying to find confirmation on this, do you mean Tesla is remotely disabling the car from driving under it's own power if put into that list? Or is it just to prevent the car from super charging from working?
last picture is from when car was working 2 days ago.
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San Diego man seems to think that, the one who had the news story. I would think tesla could turn the car off remotely if needed to be. I do not know if they would actually do it for legal reasons. Strechla project has no trouble driving his car and was also able to supercharge. I think my problems lies in the 12v system. I will try to get a new 12v battery here soon and see what will happen, no reason to point fingers at Tesla yet until everything is 100% in order.
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San Diego man seems to think that, the one who had the news story. I would think tesla could turn the car off remotely if needed to be. I do not know if they would actually do it for legal reasons. Strechla project has no trouble driving his car and was also able to supercharge. I think my problems lies in the 12v system. I will try to get a new 12v battery here soon and see what will happen, no reason to point fingers at Tesla yet until everything is 100% in order.
spaceballs
Member
looking at the sensor you posted.
Looks like it could communicate with this display, that be one way to test if the sensor is still good or not.
You might be able to get details info from the manufacture of the sensor. Battery Sensors | HELLA
Looks like it could communicate with this display, that be one way to test if the sensor is still good or not.
You might be able to get details info from the manufacture of the sensor. Battery Sensors | HELLA
oh now i see you were charging at 235v with 30 Amps, that is 7kW--probably too much for a 10kW charger without the cooling working.
The strechla is parked out in his pasture now and he did not supercharge after getting the written notice about no more parts would be sold to him. And i'll bet his car has the 3G card removed.
The strechla is parked out in his pasture now and he did not supercharge after getting the written notice about no more parts would be sold to him. And i'll bet his car has the 3G card removed.
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spaceballs
Member
If these systems are anything like the roadster it has at minimum 2 temp sensors to prevent it self from overheating. My guess the charger electronics are unharmed.
Just for a few minutes. Than switched to 12a 120v and went home leaving the car to charge.
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Good link spaceballs, maybe I can just by the sensor would probably be cheaper than the display to test the sensor: http://www.my-caravanning.com/en/pr...troller/WAECO-PerfectCharge-Accessories/65521
Unfortunately they are in England, would be longtime before I get the display or the sensor.
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Good link spaceballs, maybe I can just by the sensor would probably be cheaper than the display to test the sensor: http://www.my-caravanning.com/en/pr...troller/WAECO-PerfectCharge-Accessories/65521
Unfortunately they are in England, would be longtime before I get the display or the sensor.
The pic you posted is of the 12V battery terminal. Nothing really looks like it melted to me. I thought you were talking about the HV negative battery terminal.
So, with the 12V battery connected, do you hear the battery contactor close when you open the doors? It should be two clicks.
So, with the 12V battery connected, do you hear the battery contactor close when you open the doors? It should be two clicks.
The black plastic where it touches the cooper is melted. When 12v was connected yesterday it would close solenoids in the back area of the car I'm thinking around the charge port or under back seat the DC DC charger did not close the solenoids. Unless I pushed on that sensor and wiggled it around I would get the second click for a second and than it would click open again.
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I never closed my doors I leave them open got tired of not being able to open them easily from outside
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I never closed my doors I leave them open got tired of not being able to open them easily from outside
The doors(and most other things), only need 12V power to operate. Even with a low 12V battery, as long as you have a good battery charger connected to the battery posts behind the nosecone, most things should operate fine. You need 12V power to the car to diagnose this stuff.
It sounds like you have high voltage at the HV junction box, what about the DC/DC?
It sounds like you have high voltage at the HV junction box, what about the DC/DC?
spaceballs
Member
You could always call/email to do DHL, take like 4-5 days.
btw if you look at data brief it says "Galvanic isolated LIN communication and supply interface" so it talks over via LIN, you could grab a scope and power supply and see if it tries to start to communicate.
Where would I check the HV on the DC/DC? I assume I do not have it there because there is no click. No wires are damaged on my car. Would a bad connection to the main bat pack cause my problems? I know when I first put the HV battery back up into the car my right spring connection was bad I wiggled it and it clicked in place. My car did sit outside for the most of the last 9mo and all the fuses above the 12V battery would get wet every time it rained along with that Hella IBS sensor. My gut feeling is that its the IBS sensor functioning intermediately and sending false data to the car, and the car not powering up the HV system due to the sensor's input.
It sounds like repairing this vehicle is quite a bit out of your knowledge zone. I would hate to have you kill yourself(DC HV will kill you on the spot), trying to save a few bucks. Please have someone with extensive electrical experience help you with this.
Anyway, here is a pic of the DC/DC converter used on the Model S.
spaceballs
Member
What do you mean spring connection? got photo?
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I have to agree, I would leave DC/DC alone focus on areas your comfortable/safe in, bring in someone who can handle the HV for you.
Yes, I know that is the DC/DC converter located behind the pass wheel on model s, this is my first repairable Tesla. I know that the orange wires are the HV wires. I always have the 12V disconnected when I work on EV or a Hybrid to keep myself and the shop safe, as should anyone. I do a continuity test on all HV wires if there is no continuity I replace wire if there is I replace unit. I'm not going to be probing the HV system with the 12V hooked up too many unknowns and too many risks. Unfortunately I do not have the luxury on replacing Tesla components. I do not know at which wire to check the HV I never took Tesla DC/DC converter apart and have no idea how this particular one works there are also no wiring diagrams for it. The only thing I'm armed with is a voltmeter. It's not about saving a few bucks I would love to take the car to tesla and have them scan it with their scanner and tell me exactly what is wrong its just not an option.
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Will the cabin heater only have power when heat is turned on or the bat heater will have power when it calls for heat? Those things I do not know.
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I called the connection to the main battery a spring connection. As the battery gets pushed up into the car it compresses the spring on the main battery connections that is how they are kept in place, so when you take the battery down there are no clips to compress. What keeps the battery plugged in are the pressure from the spring. I took a picture but it is not very good when I had my battery down.
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Actually I bet if I had power in the Cabin heater HV wire my heat would work, so there is no power at those connections.
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Will the cabin heater only have power when heat is turned on or the bat heater will have power when it calls for heat? Those things I do not know.
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I called the connection to the main battery a spring connection. As the battery gets pushed up into the car it compresses the spring on the main battery connections that is how they are kept in place, so when you take the battery down there are no clips to compress. What keeps the battery plugged in are the pressure from the spring. I took a picture but it is not very good when I had my battery down.
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Actually I bet if I had power in the Cabin heater HV wire my heat would work, so there is no power at those connections.