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Negative Camber in the Rear and Expensive Tires

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zwede,
Have you tried combining your camber work with working closer to zero toe in on the rear? Less toe in makes the car hunt a little more on the highway (and also rotate a bit better if you are into such things) but does significantly reduce wear and even improves range.
 
So I have a P100D with the unplugged lowering brackets and just smoked a set of Hankooks in what I'm guessing is 5-7k miles. So can I go to Tesla and ask them to do an alignment to help correct the rear or do I need to go to a custom shop? Not sure how Tesla would react to the brackets, if they would even notice or should I just come out and say hey I have it lowered can you help me correct it at the risk of them saying we won't touch it?
 
So I have a P100D with the unplugged lowering brackets and just smoked a set of Hankooks in what I'm guessing is 5-7k miles. So can I go to Tesla and ask them to do an alignment to help correct the rear or do I need to go to a custom shop? Not sure how Tesla would react to the brackets, if they would even notice or should I just come out and say hey I have it lowered can you help me correct it at the risk of them saying we won't touch it?


Are you sure the Hankook tires meet the load rating for the tesla? should be 96 for the front tires and 101 for the rears. I seem to recall another thread where this was the issue with the Hankook tires...
 
Are you sure the Hankook tires meet the load rating for the tesla? should be 96 for the front tires and 101 for the rears. I seem to recall another thread where this was the issue with the Hankook tires...

You are correct found that out when I showed up to get them installed about an hour ago, not sure how I was sold those originally for my P85D unless the P85D has a different weight rating.

Soooooo, now waiting on a pair of super sports to show up to see if the 295 will fit, if not then I think I'm screwed because there doesn't appear to be an option available in the 275 or 285 for that weight rating.
 
You are correct found that out when I showed up to get them installed about an hour ago, not sure how I was sold those originally for my P85D unless the P85D has a different weight rating.

Soooooo, now waiting on a pair of super sports to show up to see if the 295 will fit, if not then I think I'm screwed because there doesn't appear to be an option available in the 275 or 285 for that weight rating.


Im sure its been mentioned already but the wider the tire the more issues you will have on that inside edge of the tire as well as lower overall range. Personally im not totally sold on the wider tire thing for Teslas, my car came with 19" 245/45/19 tires pilot sport 3 summer tires and with them I was able to record a 0-60 run of 2.63 seconds!! Obviously the 21" tires definitely win for looks but personally anything wider then the 265 seems like overkill on a D model, especially since I was able to record 2.63 to 60 with 245 wide tires!!!
 
Yeah didn't necessarily want wider rims/tires just really liked the look of the rims and definitely would not have gone this route had I known about the tire issue. Maybe I'll just switch over to the 21" forged I got from referrals instead or sell all three sets and get a custom forged set and a 19 or 20" set for winter.
 
Update.
I have adjustable links to set desired ride height in combination with running the car in "Always Low". A recent software update erased this setting. I learned this when I noticed the car was less stable in a straight line. I checked the ride height and it was returning to normal every time the car started up.

One of the ways I try to control tire wear in the rear even with negative camber is to reduce scrub by running as little rear toe as possible. I run near zero total toe in on the rear of my D. This setting used to make me RWD S' a bit more lively at highway speeds with them tending to hunt or trammel following any imperfections in the road (grooving and the like). The AWD S does much better with near zero rear toe and is stable.

Just like there are camber changes with changes in ride height due to unequal suspension arm lengths, some cars can have toe changes with ride height. In the race car world it is called bump steer for obvious reasons. Given that my 85D starts to hunt more in normal ride height, I suspect the Model S has some bump steer where you get some toe in on the wheel as it is pushed up. This would make sense as the loaded rear wheel would tend to turn into the corner (toe out in the rear while corning makes for a very lively car to drive).

So, just an observation. If you are doing like I am and running near zero rear toe be wary of changes in stability due to increased ride height.
 
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Good to know, I just had my camber links and an alignment done yesterday. I'm not sure I asked where the rear toe ended up, but it does feel like it rides much better than it did before and hoping I don't go through this set of tires in 5k miles like the last set.
 
I have had several cars that run better than 1.5 degrees of negative camber in the rear. Looking at my MS and comparing the front to the rear I'd guess the rears are over -1.5. Camber gain is built into suspensions so the negative value will only increase as the car lowers going down the road.

Running this much camber reduces contact patch which decreases rolling resistance. It also helps save you on throttle off over steer. Most people's normal reaction when they feel like they have entered a corner too fast is to lift off the accelerator. This causes forward weight transfer, unloads the rear and the car can swap ends. Negative camber in the rear gives more safety margin.

The down side is it wears the inside of the tire, sometimes very quickly. I've had cars that would destroy rears in 4,000 miles. I have addressed the problem by going to the lower limit of the factory recommended values for rear camber (and sometimes less) and have even had to adjust ride height to get to an acceptable number. That acceptable number is no more than -1.0 degree for me but this is a personal preference.

Has anyone looked at this? Have you measured tread wear across the rear contact patch? I'll do mine shortly and share the results. At $500 a piece, I would prefer to not be buying Pilot's on a regular basis.

Thank you! Good Info. Curious how much tire life I “should” be getting on these, I am at 21k, so probably just time to replace them come spring anyway....maybe that’s just me being positive! :)
 
How is it there are no more postings? Everyone happy? Ive just bought new Michs for my 85D (19s) at 49K (30kMiles) with insides scrubbed out. Going to a suspension specialist next week. Dave

Most of the original postings had to do with the air spring P85+ cars with 265/35ZR-21 tires that, because of their profile, amplified toe errors, and to some degree, benefited from aftermarket camber-reducing parts and careful attention to rear (toe) alignment. In large part that issue has been sorted as those cars are ~~5 years old now and the owners have figured this out.

19s have shown more tolerance for alignment errors, but still need thoughtful alignment skills which, in my personal experience, are sometimes not present at the service center. ymmv.
 
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