New 12V Battery [need to install insurance tracker box on 2022 Model3]

[LeeroyJ]

Hi there,

I just received my new 2022 Model 3. As I havent had a car since 2011, the only Insurance I was able to get was one with a tracker box installed.
The problem is, the installer was unable to figure out how to install the tracker to the new 12v battery in the 2022 Model.

I know it's a long shot, but does anybody have any ideas or experience? My 7 day temporary insurance has expired, and they refuse to send me a new disc until the box is installed, meaning my brand-new Model 3 now sits in the driveway and cant be used. Im a little frustrated as I mentioned it's a Tesla Model 3 to them multiple times, and they ensured me that the box can be fitted. Apparently the new 2022 Model 3 has a different battery to all other previous Tesla.

 

[cbdream99]

May be tapping in the fuse box since it cannot be wire directly into the battery terminals? In the ICE car, tapping into the fuse box can power up other accessories, not sure about Tesla and any risk. Tesla probably will tell you it's not supported.

 

[ATPMSD]

You absolutely should not attach anything directly to the 12v battery! If the car has an OBD2 port (may not be there anymore since Tesla stopped installing them recently) there is an un-switched 12v tap there, there is also one on the CAN Bus.

Search YouTube for other sources.

 

[GtiMart]

OR switch insurance companies. Some install a Tag system which is a set of independent modules that have batteries. I believe there's no need to tap the 12V in that case. Much safer anyway as the thief cannot just unplug it.

 

[KenC]

I'd also post your query in the subforum for UK/Ireland as this may be a more common problem faced by those members.

 

[SilverString]

Is there no old style 12v cigarette lighter adapter?

 

[RayK]

My assumption would be that whatever tracker the insurance company installs needs to have constant 12V power and is not easily removable.

 

[LeeroyJ]

Unfortunately, this was the only insurance I was able to obtain. Insurance companies in Ireland are extremely strict and since I dont have an insurance record for the past 10 years, I was denied by every insurance except this one. Cost me a fortune too (4000 EUR)

 

[Sophias_dad]

If nothing else, something like this would do exactly what you want.

www.amazon.co.uk/Regulator-Protector-Stabilizer-Waterproof-Protection/dp/B08TQQHQPS

This one is probably better, as I doubt the tracker needs anything like the 4 amps the above one can supply....

www.amazon.co.uk/BZONE-Converter-Regulator-Waterproof-Transformer/dp/B0B1PQ2GJ1

or even better, with only a 2 amp output:

www.amazon.co.uk/Voltage-Convertor-10-28V-Regulator-Waterproof/dp/B07TQ64S1V/

 

[LeeroyJ]

If nothing else, something like this would do exactly what you want.

www.amazon.co.uk/Regulator-Protector-Stabilizer-Waterproof-Protection/dp/B08TQQHQPS

This one is probably better, as I doubt the tracker needs anything like the 4 amps the above one can supply....

www.amazon.co.uk/BZONE-Converter-Regulator-Waterproof-Transformer/dp/B0B1PQ2GJ1

or even better, with only a 2 amp output:

www.amazon.co.uk/Voltage-Convertor-10-28V-Regulator-Waterproof/dp/B07TQ64S1V/

Hi Sophias, thanks for the tip! I really appreciate it. Where would you install these devices you linked?

this is what the tracking box looks like:

 

[Sophias_dad]

Here are the specs on that device:

10 - 30 V DC with overvoltage protection

The current is so low as to be not worth mentioning, but I'll mention it anyway:

At 12V < 1.47 mA (Ultra Deep Sleep)
At 12V < 3.21 mA (Deep Sleep)
At 12V < 3.75 mA (Online Sleep)
At 12V < 5.48 mA (GPS Sleep)
At 12V < 24.41 mA (nominal)

You can safely connect the device right to the 15.5V battery. It also has an internal fuse so if things go badly that'll blow. I assume they don't think they need an external fuse if the wires are kept so very short. It looks like they plan on you literally sticking it to the top of the battery.

https://teltonika-gps.com/downloads/en/fmt100/FMT100_Quick_Manual_v1.5.pdf

As far as actually connecting, I'd probably follow that giant red wire until it reaches some sort of lug or at least some smaller gauge wire. I certainly wouldn't entertain trying to splice into it directly. Almost any always-on power source will be fine for your purposes, but be aware if you take it from somewhere other than your battery or the wires hanging directly off of it you might find that it gets de-powered when the car goes to sleep. There's an internal battery in your tracker, but I'm sure its not intended for daily use.

 

[Randy-12]

Hi Sophias, thanks for the tip! I really appreciate it. Where would you install these devices you linked?

this is what the tracking box looks like:

View attachment 850604

Can you not bolt it to the jump post?
That is what I did for my EVOffer front frunk automatic opener.

 

[Sophias_dad]

Can you not bolt it to the jump post?

I assume OP was concerned that he needed a 12V source, not 15.5V. Now that the device is known to have 10-30V tolerance, the jump post is a great place to connect.

 

[LeeroyJ]

Here are the specs on that device:

10 - 30 V DC with overvoltage protection

The current is so low as to be not worth mentioning, but I'll mention it anyway:

At 12V < 1.47 mA (Ultra Deep Sleep)
At 12V < 3.21 mA (Deep Sleep)
At 12V < 3.75 mA (Online Sleep)
At 12V < 5.48 mA (GPS Sleep)
At 12V < 24.41 mA (nominal)

You can safely connect the device right to the 15.5V battery. It also has an internal fuse so if things go badly that'll blow. I assume they don't think they need an external fuse if the wires are kept so very short. It looks like they plan on you literally sticking it to the top of the battery.

https://teltonika-gps.com/downloads/en/fmt100/FMT100_Quick_Manual_v1.5.pdf

As far as actually connecting, I'd probably follow that giant red wire until it reaches some sort of lug or at least some smaller gauge wire. I certainly wouldn't entertain trying to splice into it directly. Almost any always-on power source will be fine for your purposes, but be aware if you take it from somewhere other than your battery or the wires hanging directly off of it you might find that it gets de-powered when the car goes to sleep. There's an internal battery in your tracker, but I'm sure its not intended for daily use.

Amazing thanks a lot! I'm going to bring this suggestion to a Tesla experienced garage and hopefully get them to install it! Really appreciate the help!

 

[Resist]

You absolutely should not attach anything directly to the 12v battery!

This is not true. Many people have installed a bluetooth battery monitor device, to monitor their 12 volt battery health. I just bought one and plan on installing it as well.

 

[RayK]

I think the implication is that whatever is connected to the 12V (15.5V) battery should not draw an "excessive" amount of current. Exactly what that means is anybody's guess as I don't think that Tesla has ever come out and said what that current value (drain) is. For something that I was planning to do, which is to attach a 12V accessory outlet (i.e., cigarette lighter outlet) directly to the battery and have it available in the frunk, is certainly not advised. But something requiring several mA of power in a sleep or idle state is probably okay.

 

[ATPMSD]

This is not true.

I stand by this statement, anything you attach to the battery interferes with the ability of the BMS to monitor the battery. You should instead use an un-switched source elsewhere such as the OBD2 port, if you have one, or the CAN bus.

Having said that, yes something in the low milliwatt range is probably OK but then where do you draw the line? Also, I would never connect anything to the battery without a fuse.

 

[cbdream99]

This is not true. Many people have installed a bluetooth battery monitor device, to monitor their 12 volt battery health. I just bought one and plan on installing it as well.

Obviously, there is a reason why all the electronic accessories in the car are connected to the fuse box instead of directly to the battery terminals. There is always a risk of direct connection to the terminals, especially without any fuse ... what if there is a short or an accident pinched the wires, creating fire hazards?

 

[Resist]

I stand by this statement, anything you attach to the battery interferes with the ability of the BMS to monitor the battery. You should instead use an un-switched source elsewhere such as the OBD2 port, if you have one, or the CAN bus.

Having said that, yes something in the low milliwatt range is probably OK but then where do you draw the line? Also, I would never connect anything to the battery without a fuse.

Have you even seen a battery monitor device? They couldn't be more simpler and some do have a fuse in line but if someone is that concerned they can always add a fuse in line, not like it's hard to do. But I've never heard of an electrical issue with these small devices, if you have then point me to the source.

 

[VT_EE]

The Model 3 does not have fuse boxes. There are no traditional fuses.