New 240v outlet pulling 0 amps

[toki]

Hello,

I had an electrician friend come today and install a new 240v outlet in my garage. I went with him to Home Depot to purchase the supplies. We purchased some 6-3 wire, a 50a outlet, and a 50a two-pole breaker.

After everything was set up and he left, I plugged in my mobile charge cable and while the car shows that it is getting 240v, it is pulling 0 amps, no matter what I set the amperage to on the GUI. It also shows “Max 5A” underneath the amperage, even though it will let me set that as high as 32a.

My friend said that he will come back tomorrow to check all the connections and test the outlet, but I was wondering if anyone here might have some helpful insight.

Thanks for reading!

 

[mongo]

Hello,

I had an electrician friend come today and install a new 240v outlet in my garage. I went with him to Home Depot to purchase the supplies. We purchased some 6-3 wire, a 50a outlet, and a 50a two-pole breaker.

After everything was set up and he left, I plugged in my mobile charge cable and while the car shows that it is getting 240v, it is pulling 0 amps, no matter what I set the amperage to on the GUI. It also shows “Max 5A” underneath the amperage, even though it will let me set that as high as 32a.

My friend said that he will come back tomorrow to check all the connections and test the outlet, but I was wondering if anyone here might have some helpful insight.

Thanks for reading!

That's a weird one.
The display shows 244V so the outlet appears to be wired correctly
However, it also shows 0/0 which means the Mobile Connector (MC) is saying it can't pass any current.
What is the light pattern on the MC?
Is the plug adapter firmly seated into the MC?
Does the MC work in other locations or with a different adapter?
Can you borrow a different MC to try?

 

[hsfrank]

Hello,

I had an electrician friend come today and install a new 240v outlet in my garage. I went with him to Home Depot to purchase the supplies. We purchased some 6-3 wire, a 50a outlet, and a 50a two-pole breaker.

After everything was set up and he left, I plugged in my mobile charge cable and while the car shows that it is getting 240v, it is pulling 0 amps, no matter what I set the amperage to on the GUI. It also shows “Max 5A” underneath the amperage, even though it will let me set that as high as 32a.

My friend said that he will come back tomorrow to check all the connections and test the outlet, but I was wondering if anyone here might have some helpful insight.

Thanks for reading!

electrician, friend,mmmm . I am certainly no electrician, but I have done some minor wiring (not this) and made some minor mistakes. A friend like that causes me some suspicion. To check for the obvious.
One is it wired correctly to the breaker? is it grounded correctly ? is the outlet a 14–50 outlet? Is the plug a 14-50 plug? If all is correct you should be drawing 32 Amp. although 14-50 will theoretically draw 42 A the mobile connector is only rated for 32.

 

[ATPMSD]

I agree with @hsfrank

The first thing to do is to check the outlet. Using a multimeter check voltages. The 14-50 has four slots, L1, L2, N and G. The voltage from L1-N, L1-G, L2-N and L2-G should all be 120v. L1-L2 should be 240V.

Assuming you are using the Tesla Mobile Connector are you using the Tesla 14-50 adapter? Make sure it is FULLY seated.

Plug in the adapter and do not plug it into the car. Make sure the plug is fully inserted and square to the wall. Do you see anything other than a green lights?

 

[mongo]

I agree with @hsfrank

The first thing to do is to check the outlet. Using a multimeter check voltages. The 14-50 has four slots, L1, L2, N and G. The voltage from L1-N, L1-G, L2-N and L2-G should all be 120v. L1-L2 should be 240V.

Assuming you are using the Tesla Mobile Connector are you using the Tesla 14-50 adapter? Make sure it is FULLY seated.

Plug in the adapter and do not plug it into the car. Make sure the plug is fully inserted and square to the wall. Do you see anything other than a green lights?

Definitely worth checking, but may show up normal when not loaded down.
Car is reporting 244V so L1-L2 seem correct.
MC is passing voltage so ground check seems to have passed
Neutral is not used by the MC (but should be connected in outlet)

Almost seems like a software issue or the MC contactors are welded and it detects that fault and will not allow current draw.
Or, there is a bad connection and its faulting after the charging starts. Lights should infucate that...

 

[StanMI]

Is the breaker in the panel turned on ?????

 

[toki]

That's a weird one.
The display shows 244V so the outlet appears to be wired correctly
However, it also shows 0/0 which means the Mobile Connector (MC) is saying it can't pass any current.
What is the light pattern on the MC?
Is the plug adapter firmly seated into the MC?
Does the MC work in other locations or with a different adapter?
Can you borrow a different MC to try?

electrician, friend,mmmm . I am certainly no electrician, but I have done some minor wiring (not this) and made some minor mistakes. A friend like that causes me some suspicion. To check for the obvious.
One is it wired correctly to the breaker? is it grounded correctly ? is the outlet a 14–50 outlet? Is the plug a 14-50 plug? If all is correct you should be drawing 32 Amp. although 14-50 will theoretically draw 42 A the mobile connector is only rated for 32.

I agree with @hsfrank

The first thing to do is to check the outlet. Using a multimeter check voltages. The 14-50 has four slots, L1, L2, N and G. The voltage from L1-N, L1-G, L2-N and L2-G should all be 120v. L1-L2 should be 240V.

Assuming you are using the Tesla Mobile Connector are you using the Tesla 14-50 adapter? Make sure it is FULLY seated.

Plug in the adapter and do not plug it into the car. Make sure the plug is fully inserted and square to the wall. Do you see anything other than a green lights?

Definitely worth checking, but may show up normal when not loaded down.
Car is reporting 244V so L1-L2 seem correct.
MC is passing voltage so ground check seems to have passed
Neutral is not used by the MC (but should be connected in outlet)

Almost seems like a software issue or the MC contactors are welded and it detects that fault and will not allow current draw.
Or, there is a bad connection and its faulting after the charging starts. Lights should infucate that...

Is the breaker in the panel turned on ?????

Thank you all for the replies.

The light pattern on the mobile charger is solid green when not plugged in to the car, and streaming green when plugged in. No error lights. According to the troubleshooting guide it is working fine. Everything is fully seated. The breaker was not flipped off but we tried flipping it anyways last night just to check - no improvement.

I should have mentioned, the mobile charger works fine from the standard outlet, it pulls 12a and charges normally.

My friend (licensed electrician) will be stopping by this afternoon to check the outlet and all the connections.

 

[mongo]

Thank you all for the replies.

The light pattern on the mobile charger is solid green when not plugged in to the car, and streaming green when plugged in. No error lights. According to the troubleshooting guide it is working fine. Everything is fully seated. The breaker was not flipped off but we tried flipping it anyways last night just to check - no improvement.

I should have mentioned, the mobile charger works fine from the standard outlet, it pulls 12a and charges normally.

My friend (licensed electrician) will be stopping by this afternoon to check the outlet and all the connections.

I'm gonna go with a bad adapter.
Or the red light on the MC is broken.

Thanks for the update!

 

[1965Falcon]

I would suggest replacing the cheap Home Depot 50a socket and get a good quality one designed for heavy duty use like a Bryant/Hubbell.

Tons of posts about fires from using the cheap leviton ones.

 

[ATPMSD]

@toki

I suggest it is time to rule out the car itself. I appreciate it works when using the 5-15 adapter but that is 120v.

Take your car to a public L2 station (not a Supercharger, such as ChargePoint, and see what happens. Most of these will charge the car at either 24a or 32a. It this does not work then the problem is with the car’s charging system.

 

[mongo]

@toki

I suggest it is time to rule out the car itself. I appreciate it works when using the 5-15 adapter but that is 120v.

Take your car to a public L2 station (not a Supercharger, such as ChargePoint, and see what happens. Most of these will charge the car at either 24a or 32a. It this does not work then the problem is with the car’s charging system.

That would be weird, 120V and 240V use the same connections and that wouldn't explain the x/0 reported on the GUI.

 

[ATPMSD]

That would be weird, 120V and 240V use the same connections and that wouldn't explain the x/0 reported on the GUI.

Yeah but 120v is L1-N versus L1-L2. It could be a problem in the PCS. In any case I suggest it is best to rule out the car.

 

[mongo]

Yeah but 120v is L1-N versus L1-L2. It could be a problem in the PCS. In any case I suggest it is best to rule out the car.

Sure, but unless there is a ground fault (which should throw an error) 120/240 *shouldn't* matter.

Seems like a charge port communication issue where the MC is trying to say 32A and the vehicle is hearing 0A. Or MC issue where it thinks the adapter limit is 0A...

 

[Tronguy]

Also: Go for the obvious. Check the charging tab in the car and make sure it's not set to zero amps when everything's connected. Or that there's some scheduled charge/scheduled departure set; if so, unset them.

 

[RayK]

I should have mentioned, the mobile charger works fine from the standard outlet, it pulls 12a and charges normally.

My opinion is that you have a problem with the Tesla 14-50 NEMA adapter. Since the 5-15 adapter seems to tell the mobile connector correctly that it can provide 12A, that should say the 5-15 adapter and the MC is okay. If possible I'd try your existing 14-50 adapter on another 50A outlet and see what happens. Or try a different 14-50 NEMA adapter on your new socket.

 

[jjrandorin]

I have also seen some "strange stuff" when people get a new tesla and sign up for multiple third party services that interact with the car in some way. Things like Optiwatt, or any other thing that can interact with the car to "automate stuff" or "charge from green energy!" or monitor / interact with charging in any way.


OP, do you, or have you at any time at all (ever) downloaded anything that interacts with your car charging (perhaps under the premise of saving energy, green energy, optimizing charging, etc etc) even if you downloaded it, logged in and then decided you didnt want it anymore?

If your unsure, change your tesla account password to break the connection to anything like that.

 

[CosmicBrownMan]

I am going through the exact situation in my 2021 M3SRP. Purchased used through Tesla about 2 weeks ago.

Installed a 14-50 outlet on a 50A breaker. Pulls 0/0 amps when charging through 240v, and 12/12 amps through 120v. I've tried two different UMCs with 2 different 14-50 adapters, and multiple outlets at different locations around town. I did try a HPWC at a local parking garage and was able to charge at full rated amps with that.

I am currently at the Tesla Service Center and the tech has recreated the issue with my UMCs and their in-house UMC. He suspects it is the Charge Port ECU not being able to communicate with the UMC and request amperage once the voltage and ground checks are completed.

I will update once I have more information.

 

[mongo]

I am currently at the Tesla Service Center and the tech has recreated the issue with my UMCs and their in-house UMC. He suspects it is the Charge Port ECU not being able to communicate with the UMC and request amperage once the voltage and ground checks are completed.

I will update once I have more information.

Except that it can read the value from the UMC as shown by functionality at 12 Amps.
It sounds like a tolerance or SW issue for the high end limit of 32A.

 

[CosmicBrownMan]

Service center replaced the Chargeport ECU and no dice. Got a loaner and will update if/once resolved.

 

[CosmicBrownMan]

Service center is finished with the vehicle.

They replaced the Charge Port ECU and the Charge Port itself after saying the Pilot Pin was corroded causing a communication issue between the UMC and CP ECU (which I thought was pretty ridiculous since 120v, HPWC, and supercharging still work, AFAIK the Pilot Pin is still used for supercharging.) They plugged in their UMC and it worked fine. Upon pickup, I requested to use my own UMC to verify that it was fixed, which they agreed to. We tested with my UMC which showed the same 0/0amps. They warranty replaced the UMC, tested it in front of me (which worked 32/32a), and I was on my way. Got home, plugged it in, same thing. 0/0amps.

Could a 14-50 outlet be bricking UMCs? I would think there would be internal protections against overvoltages/currents.