When things get crazy, it is important to take a break and then follow a step-by-step process so you don't end up going in circles.
My suggestion:
> Keep the OEM lights plugged in and check connectors are properly engaged (undo and do them up again) and no wires have pulled out.
> Do the resets as Daytonaviolet stated (power off in Safety menu, two-button reset), but I might hold off unplugging LV and first responder until later.
Check lights and for error messages in Service menu again and if this has solved it
If no go,
> Use a 12V circuit tester and check that there is power at the plug itself (if the other side is working, you can try comparing readings). If there is power but no light, check the ground wire (not sure if the light also grounds through one of the mounting bolts, so check that these are done up). If no power,
> Check the light fuse(s). Be sure to pull up your model's fuse list, as they vary a lot.
> If the fuse is okay but there is no power to the connector then you can try the LV and first responder unplug and reset
Check for error messages again and repeat above steps to check for any changes
IMHO, reinstall SW only once you have eliminated everything else; as I understand, it will wipe all saved settings. Normally, the car circuits should reset with each power cycle, so a reinstall would likely only solve software corruption, which is highly unlikely, I would have thought.
I know from experience that if the load changes on a circuit, it can throw up warning signals. When I changed my MS 2015 headlamps from HID to LED, I had to add a resistor to the load circuit to fool it into thinking the original load was still there (as the LED headlights draw less current); otherwise, it would have shown the headlight as malfunctioning. TSportline should be able to advise if this is necessary - but this only makes any sense if the OEMs do work again and the TS still doesn't.
Good luck and keep us updated.