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No cabin heat, can/should car be driven?
- Thread starter NV Ray
- Start date
Rice&Curry
Member
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
In the older Model S, there is a separate battery heater. Heat from DC-DC converter, OBC, and drivetrain can also be used to heat the battery.
Tesla Thermal Management System - explanation
I would bet that if the car is not drivable due to heating or cooling issues, you'd be getting all sorts of alerts.
vcor
Tech Specialist
The HV battery is highly protected and it will not let the car drive or charge if it will damage the battery. If the car lets you drive, it's safe to do so. If it gets into a situation (i.e. a too-cold or hot battery while driving), it will alert you, usually with plenty of warning to get off the road. Depending on the severity it may let you drive miles, or tell you to pull over to the side of the road. It will not shut down instantly like an ICE car with a blown engine or out of gas.
Same thing happened to me, the PTC heater went out in the middle of last winter. Car will drive and charge just fine, but you may be a little chilly. They should do a remote diagnosis soon to know what parts to order so they are at the shop when you bring the car in. In mine they ended up replacing the heater and it had that burning dust smell for a while.
I‘m in same situation right now as the PTC heater have probably failed. Lucky you can drive. Mine is completely stranded, first it had one full page of all sort of codes and warning. Now a day later it can’t start and is not able to be driven. I managed to put it in Tow-mode and disable P2D. Tesla asked to bring it in as soon as possible as they have first-come-first-serve agreement on non drivable vehicles. I have to transport it for three and half an hour’s.
vcor
Tech Specialist
This sounds far more serious than a failed PTC heater. When you get it back, I'd be interested to know what went wrong.
airborne spoon
Active Member
probably just a fuse that blew for the cabin heater.
Also if the battery gets too hot the car will limit the amount of power it can output. When my louvers went out it took 3 hours to get my normal 45 min charge and i was only able to go 17 mph by the time i got home. Same thing will happen if the battery is too cold it will limit the power till it warms up, but in that case you will be able to go progressively faster as it warms up. And doing hard pulls will warm it faster. Like when it says preheating for supercharging i will floor it and regen then floor it a few times. The preheater always starts too late and if i dont do that it will still be trying to preheat when i park the car at the charger.
Also if the battery gets too hot the car will limit the amount of power it can output. When my louvers went out it took 3 hours to get my normal 45 min charge and i was only able to go 17 mph by the time i got home. Same thing will happen if the battery is too cold it will limit the power till it warms up, but in that case you will be able to go progressively faster as it warms up. And doing hard pulls will warm it faster. Like when it says preheating for supercharging i will floor it and regen then floor it a few times. The preheater always starts too late and if i dont do that it will still be trying to preheat when i park the car at the charger.
OK, car has now been fixed. They found that it was electrical batery heating device that triggered these HV isolation codes and the PTC heater operates as should. I believe in my case the car protected the battery by not allowing to get into drive. See photo
Also the service was unexpectedly fast and very helpful! They said I can bring my car over as soon as able, Tesla has dedicated “car not drivable” team that can help outside the ordinary service queue. Reaced over on Tuesday and car fixed this evening. Very grateful of the outcome!
Also the service was unexpectedly fast and very helpful! They said I can bring my car over as soon as able, Tesla has dedicated “car not drivable” team that can help outside the ordinary service queue. Reaced over on Tuesday and car fixed this evening. Very grateful of the outcome!
Had exactly this problem. Fixed by unplug and replug coolant heater.
13 MS 85 can't go into drive, recent LDU rebuild, some clues from clicking sounds
73k miles. Won't go into drive with a bunch of error codes (looks like HV loop disabled). LDU rebuild completed ~ 2weeks ago and driven 350 miles before this problem. Error codes shows repeated attempts to connect HV (presumably to charge 12V and heat battery?) until 12V got too drained and...
teslamotorsclub.com
Also using scanner to check coolant heater use. Looks like mostly unused (seems many reports of this) and rely on stator to heat coolant. Will post result after few more winter cold temp drive cycles.
Thats a great definitive confirmation! Been working with another owner to try to turn on our coolant heater to confirm it works. Here is what we found so far
- 45min drive didn't turn on coolant heater at all. Battery warming by stator and cell discharger/regen alone. See attached PDF. I hear Model 3 has no coolant heater so it warms battery by stator alone and cell dis/regen alone. Looks like MS is using same coolant heating profile.
- Car in garage, 30F weather, plugged into charger and turn on hi defrost via app finally turned on coolant heater
I do think it takes quite awhile to warm up battery to gain full regen. Its 1000lb of battery starting at say 8C needing to get to near 20C for full regen with 3 heating sources (stator, coolant heater if on, battery discharge/regen) My stator temp was only ~40C in 35mph driving and got up to 60C in 3mi 65mph highway run.
But yeah, battery heater dying requiring a tow is terrible. Thus, been thinking about how to avoid getting stranded by these 3 DCDC HV devices (coolant heater, cabin heater, AC compressor). No confirmed solutions yet. Thread here.
You have Gen1 DCDC? Park in rain outside often?
I left cabin filter trim off so just 12v + fuse cover and test drove 1 hr and parked outside for 3 hrs with very light snow and no rain. Found small puddle above fuse box.
The 3 HV connectors off DCDC is reachable by hand from above next to 12v battery without removing wheel liner. I saw quite a bit of water drops also on the "firewall" behind DCDC.
Tesla moved DCDC gen2 to near the AC drain line away from edge of windshield water run off and provided a retrofit kit for gen1 systems.
Perhaps this is why so many coolant and cabin heaters die. They are the 2 highest plugs on DCDC and first exposed from above (see pg2 here) HV +- lines are much fatter and bigger than the HVIL lines. We probably should mod a runoff shield or do the gen2 DCDC retrofit ($$)
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