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Ohlins R&T Coilovers with Swift Springs!

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Is it because you lower the chassis too far? Thats why its bottom out? Hows the ride now after a few weeks? My stock spring 11/12k still rock hard even on 20 clicks all round. Ordered 8/9k, still waiting for delivery
If your stock springs are rock hard, there's a possibility they weren't installed correctly. Possibly too much pre-load? Have you tried 20 clicks from the opposite direction, in case you are 20 click from full soft instead? I have mine set at 7 clicks from full stiff and they're great!
 
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Is it because you lower the chassis too far? Thats why its bottom out? Hows the ride now after a few weeks? My stock spring 11/12k still rock hard even on 20 clicks all round. Ordered 8/9k, still waiting for delivery
I bottomed out because I hit a massive dip at 90mph. Most anything would have bottomed out, certainly everything I own. The car is raised, not lowered. 1" oversized wheels + 20mm lift. I'm sure a Raptor would have been fine.

The ride is great. I'm 5 clicks off full hard, front and rear. I drive the car like I stole it. I tried full soft in the rear, and that made the ride smoother but also more wobbly. I'm sure things will be tighter if lowered, with less body roll.
 
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If your stock springs are rock hard, there's a possibility they weren't installed correctly. Possibly too much pre-load? Have you tried 20 clicks from the opposite direction, in case you are 20 click from full soft instead? I have mine set at 7 clicks from full stiff and they're great!
Rock hard for some could be soft as a pillow for others. Ride quality is very subjective.
 
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Rock hard for some could be soft as a pillow for others. Ride quality is very subjective.
I agree, but “Rock Hard” implies that they are VERY stiff at 20 clicks and that hasn’t been my experience. I’ll go as far as to say that if you have these at 20 clicks from full stiff and they are rock hard, something is wrong. These are in no way a “comfort” suspension. They are marketed as Road & Track, so they are going to be on the Sporty side of the spectrum. That being said, they should only be “rock hard” if they are turned all the way stiff.
 
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Is it because you lower the chassis too far? Thats why its bottom out? Hows the ride now after a few weeks? My stock spring 11/12k still rock hard even on 20 clicks all round. Ordered 8/9k, still waiting for delivery
@Leafable Remember that @Jigglypuff has a Y, and raised it with the coilovers + larger tires. Where he still bottoms out a lowered 3 might feel like it's going airborne. :)

I'll second what @Jigglypuff said, if you drive fast over back roads you're going to bottom out anything short of a Raptor or Rivian or such. It takes either huge suspension travel or rock hard suspension to not ever bottom out. The Öhlins are a MAJOR upgrade over stock though when hitting the big dips, the car (M3P at close to stock height in my case) can still bottom out of course but it's a VASTLY smoother and better controlled experience than with the stock suspension. (Redwood Sport Öhlins in my case but I expect the R&T are similar in this regard.)

If you don't bottom out it means either all your fun roads are nice and smooth, or you're not really driving that fast on them. ;)
 
I agree, but “Rock Hard” implies that they are VERY stiff at 20 clicks and that hasn’t been my experience. I’ll go as far as to say that if you have these at 20 clicks from full stiff and they are rock hard, something is wrong. These are in no way a “comfort” suspension. They are marketed as Road & Track, so they are going to be on the Sporty side of the spectrum. That being said, they should only be “rock hard” if they are turned all the way stiff.
I agree. 20 clicks open shouldn't be "rock hard". I think most are reading Road & Track as comfort and have expectation of a soft ride.
 
Sorry guys, my "Rock Hard" might had been over exaggerated. Even though it stiff I still love the Ohlins kits without any regret. The handling improved 1000% compare to stock even at 20 clicks away from stiff. It's just give me a big grin on every drive. Where it can improve is some of the high sharp bump can be less hard/stiff. Where we live the road ain't good with lots of potholes and I feel sorry for my passengers get the hard bump and bounce, still not as bad as the stock with the second bounce eventhough its slightly softer. Ohlins damper just stop the bump in 1 stop instead of multiple bounce. I probably expecting and thinking this is more for street but as the name suggesting track.
 
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Sorry guys, my "Rock Hard" might had been over exaggerated. Even though it stiff I still love the Ohlins kits without any regret. The handling improved 1000% compare to stock even at 20 clicks away from stiff. It's just give me a big grin on every drive. Where it can improve is some of the high sharp bump can be less hard/stiff. Where we live the road ain't good with lots of potholes and I feel sorry for my passengers get the hard bump and bounce, still not as bad as the stock with the second bounce eventhough its slightly softer. Ohlins damper just stop the bump in 1 stop instead of multiple bounce. I probably expecting and thinking this is more for street but as the name suggesting track.
Nothing wrong with putting stock rate springs on the Ohlins. Redwood will gladly sell them to you.
 
Hello,
I received my Ohlins 2 days ago and so far I am very happy with this suspension kit. Road bumps feels much better - on completely different level compared to stock suspension. My friends immediately felt the difference. I am now on 5 clicks from soft and I might go to full soft. But still, this is sport oriented suspension kit and it won't give you Lexus comfort level because of the 11/12k springs . I already received 8/9k Swift springs and I am not sure if I will use them but I would love to give a try. Also I lowered my car on 25mm which looks much better. Thanks to Tom from Europeanautosource for providing me with this amazing kit.
 

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Bottoms up! I mean out! Bottoming out update!

A taste of the road du jour. 35 miles of this. First time driving this road, but essentially no traffic, I had it to myself.

road.png


I started off at 16 of 32 clicks from stiff, just as a baseline, then went to 11 clicks a few miles in, right before it got real narrow, nasty, and gnarly.

With the Performance Sport 8kg:11kg springs, and Performance Sport dampers set 2/3rds stiff (11 of 32 clicks), I still bottomed out the rear over a few dips. No surprise at all on such a road. What *was* new to me was slamming the front down onto the pavement over one surprisingly large dip! 😄

I'm going to say this again: if you like tearing up the back roads then don't go too soft with your springs. Or damper settings. These cars have limited ground clearance and limited suspension travel, it helps to have some firmness when driving fast.

Or if your roads are all smooth and well-maintained, go firm anyways because why not?! I'm not complaining though, handling whatever the pavement throws at you is part of the fun. :)
 
Stock is 7k rear not sure about the front. 7k might be a bit too soft I think might be wobbly around like a boat.
The stock springs don't make the Model Y wobble. It's the awful damping that allows the car to wobble. GT kits have about stock spring rates.
Nearly 1 lb lighter and a lot more stroke.
1lb in the spring isn't going to matter much compared to the weight of everything else. I'm not sure how much more stroke we're talking. Half an inch at full compression?
 
From what I understand, you should ideally setup your dampers to reach the bump stops before your springs bind.

If we assume that the R&T setup instructions call for a damper body length that avoids binding their included springs, then to take advantage of the Swift springs greater compression you'd need to adjust your damper bodies to allow further compression, which can be done with Ohlins DFV.

You would also want to make sure that by allowing the greater compression you're not creating other issues, such as the tire or control arms hitting things, or allowing the battery / underbody to get closer to the ground than whatever limit you desire.

I'm so not an expert and I'm just spewing stuff I don't really have experience in, please don't take this post as gospel, it's just the stuff I would think about if I was seeking to take advantage of the Swift springs for greater compression on R&T coilovers.


Edit: My own take on the Ohlins vs Swift springs topic: Are the Swift springs a superior product in measurable ways? Yes. Will they make such a difference that they're worth swapping to just for the reduced weight and coil count? Extremely doubtful. However if I was buying replacement springs anyways, I probably would pay a little extra for Swift if available, even though I'd certainly be 100% fine with Ohlins springs. (Btw does anyone here know if Ohlins makes their own springs, or if not who makes them?)

Redwood uses Swift springs in their Ohlins DFV kits, which fits their pattern of every part being absolutely top notch, no matter that it all adds up to a significantly more expensive coilover kit. There's no right or wrong here between these options. All of us here have spent more on cars than we needed to in any practical sense. You just have to decide what parts are worth it for yourself. :)
 
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The stock springs don't make the Model Y wobble. It's the awful damping that allows the car to wobble. GT kits have about stock spring rates.

1lb in the spring isn't going to matter much compared to the weight of everything else. I'm not sure how much more stroke we're talking. Half an inch at full compression?
Just good to know it's there when you need it.

The way the rear suspension articulates the springs are getting bowed when the lower arms are away from static height in either direction. It will be interesting to examine various rear height adjustable spring setups to see how many are going
Screen Shot 2021-09-08 at 7.46.42 PM.png
into a partial bind.