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Pack Performance and Launch Mode Limits

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On what model did you log this?

My 85D is *always* capped at 1150 amps... regardless of the SOC.

I guess I made the bad assumption that a P90DL in sport mode behaved the same as a 90D, since it has the same max power. Wk054 said a 75D pack could supply approximately 1400 amps, so I thought the 1300 amps was reasonable. But if you have measured yours, I accept your data. My P90DL definitely increases the max current as the pack voltage declines in sport mode to keep the max power at 390kw.

So I amend my earlier statement:

In fact, they do this when the P cars are in sport mode. I guess I should say PxxDL cars, since I haven't actually measured a non-Ludicrous car.
 
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IMO there is NOT a noticeable difference in performance between 100% and 25%. This issue was tested a few months back by Dragtimes with a P100D.
...
At 25% SOC 0-60 2.8
...
At 98% SOC 0-60 2.50
I disagree with this assertion. These numbers are showing 98% to 25% is a drop from P100D Ludicrous to P90D Ludicrous -- at least in terms of advertised specs. If that's not "noticeable", then they really shouldn't be advertising the P100D as quicker than the P90D. Right?
 
Can someone plot those 0-60 times vs SOC against the peak kW vs SOC for P100Ds from that other thread?

. It would be informative to see how much or how little the peak kW correlates w real accel performance over the SOC dimension. Guessing from the numbers the slope of the latter is shallower.
 
I find you saying:


According to Tesla you should be getting a consistent 10.9 all day long. Tesla removed the ability for you to just use a fast foot with 1600 amps, but you are ok with that.That's giving them a pass. I'm not saying you are wrong to just accept what ever Tesla gives you and be happy. I just don't agree.

And you still keep bringing up the soc like that somehow invalidates the 1600 amps advantage:


Your power is going to vary with soc just as much at 1500 amps as it does at 1600amps.

I got an 11.05 out of my car and I'm happy with that. I am not going to lament the 0.06 time difference between what I got and what Tesla advertised.

Allow me to provide some missing context to my quote:
Launch mode introduces complexity and inconsistency at the tree that I don't want. For my style of drag racing (index and bracket) I'll take a consistent 11.2 all day long.

Misrepresenting a point and then attacking that misrepresentation is a strawman argument. I was attempting to explain that I prefer consistency over raw power in my style of racing. With both Index and bracket racing, consistency always wins out over raw power. I am not trying to state that 1600A shouldn't matter to you. Please don't try to make it seem like I am.

When I say that I do not drive my car in a configuration where I am able to draw 1600A I am literally stating just that. I don't drive around in MBR. I didn't back on 7.1 and I don't now. I don't use 1600A except at a drag strip and that falls in line with the changes that Tesla has made. This would make it very difficult for me to try to build a case against them.

What I AM NOT trying to say is that others should do what I do. This is the core of our misunderstanding. If you and others drive around with hot batteries all day because 1600A matters to you then perhaps you have a grievance. Tesla delivered some P90DL cars that were capable of this for a time and owners who utilized that feature could definitely show damages. A few, I believe, have even filed legal action.

I'm not quite sure how to take this. When you disagree with my opinion, you are not saying that I'm wrong. But If I disagree with yours, I'm saying you're wrong. You can say I can have my opinion, but that doesn't change the fact that you disagree with it.

I am trying to share my experience in such a way that doesn't impede on others. I am not actually trying to argue with you but you seem to be trying to argue with me.


Take a minute and ponder this cat. Perhaps you'll feel better:
Maru-portrait_tcm25-466621.jpg
 
Tesla is so advanced, their cars harness quantum energy. Measuring it only collapses the wave function and due the heisenberg uncertainty principle it's impossible to know anything certain about the car. Amps, kilowatts, rated miles, kilowatt hours, horsepower, it simply can't be measured by you non-quantum people. Just take Tesla's word for it... Oh, and better hope they ALLOW you to give them another $20k for 40% extra quantum entanglements. Quarter mile in sqrt(-1) seconds with the update!
 
I'm not trying to argue with you. I'm just sharing my experiences that I've had with Tesla as they steal power from my car.

I got an 11.05 out of my car and I'm happy with that. I am not going to lament the 0.06 time difference between what I got and what Tesla advertised.

As I said, you can be as placid as a Hindu cow and just accept whatever Tesla gives you. I'm not saying that you shouldn't.

They seem to have limited the power somewhat even with LM, so you probably won't be able to reproduce your 11.05. It'll be interesting to see your new time slips.

Misrepresenting a point and then attacking that misrepresentation is a strawman argument. I was attempting to explain that I prefer consistency over raw power in my style of racing. With both Index and bracket racing, consistency always wins out over raw power. I am not trying to state that 1600A shouldn't matter to you. Please don't try to make it seem like I am.


How did I misrepresent your point? You said launch mode introduces inconsistency. I merely pointed out that Tesla removed your ability to have consistent results with 1600 amps. 1600 amps is no less consistent than 1500 amps. So, the car does not perform as well as it used to. If you want more consistency, you should use sport mode. They adjust max current for you to keep the max power at a constant 390 kw. Your ets won't be close to 11.05 secs, but you don't care.

What I AM NOT trying to say is that others should do what I do. This is the core of our misunderstanding. If you and others drive around with hot batteries all day because 1600A matters to you then perhaps you have a grievance. Tesla delivered some P90DL cars that were capable of this for a time and owners who utilized that feature could definitely show damages. A few, I believe, have even filed legal action.

Well, we wouldn't have to drive around with hot batteries if they hadn't coupled the extra 100 amps with the battery temperature optimization in an attempt to make it less available. I believe people can show damage without the battery temperature optimization.
It's only 112 F by the way. Someone presented a chart of cycle life of li-ion cells vs temp and 112 F was well within the flat part of the curve. Just normal driving here in FL can get you close to those temps. It's most effective in bringing the temperature up from sub 20 C temps in cold environments, particularly at high states of charge.

When I say that I do not drive my car in a configuration where I am able to draw 1600A I am literally stating just that. I don't drive around in MBR. I didn't back on 7.1 and I don't now. I don't use 1600A except at a drag strip and that falls in line with the changes that Tesla has made. This would make it very difficult for me to try to build a case against them.

If something Tesla does lowers the value of your car, whether you use that feature or not, you've been damaged. Who knows? Maybe shared experiences you have will someday convince you that you would like to have access to those 1600 amps. Or the person who buys your car from you might like to have 1600 amps.
 
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I'm not trying to argue with you. I'm just sharing my experiences that I've had with Tesla as they steal power from my car.



As I said, you can be as placid as a Hindu cow and just accept whatever Tesla gives you. I'm not saying that you shouldn't.

hmmm. ad hominem. Can we not have a clean debate?

How did I misrepresent your point? You said launch mode introduces inconsistency. I merely pointed out that Tesla removed your ability to have consistent results with 1600 amps. 1600 amps is no less consistent than 1500 amps. So, the car does not perform as well as it used to. If you want more consistency, you should use sport mode. They adjust max current for you to keep the max power at a constant 390 kw. Your ets won't be close to 11.05 secs, but you don't care.

You are correct, I do not care. What I do with my car is not dependent on 1600A. even so, 1600A has yet to be shown to pull down that magical 10.9 pass that so many people seem to care about. Since I never had the necessary power to begin with why should I start crying about it now? I didn't buy this car to be a dyno queen. I bought this car because I like the concept and the way it drives. Since none of that has changed, i don't see cause.

Sport is no more consistent than Ludicrous. 1600A draw, however, I have experienced the car slow down as SoC drops. When I get back from travel, I can post them up if you like. In the interim, I suggest you experience this for yourself. There are several tracks in Florida.

Well, we wouldn't have to drive around with hot batteries if they hadn't coupled the extra 100 amps with the battery temperature optimization in an attempt to make it less available.

I have never seen any log showing 1600A available without Max battery, ever. Do you have something to share?

If something Tesla does lowers the value of your car, whether you use that feature or not, you've been damaged. Who knows? Maybe shared experiences you have will someday convince you that you would like to have access to those 1600 amps. Or the person who buys your car from you might like to have 1600 amps.

Are you saying I do not have access to 1600A? I can prove otherwise through datalogging.

Also, your opinion on value doesn't match the market. A vehicle that destroys the battery over time due to an unaddressed design flaw will be inherently less valuable than a vehicle that doesn't. If you are trying to use the value angle then you would want this change.

Like it or not, a design flaw was uncovered with the P90DL. Tesla addressed it in a way no one liked. They later readdressed it in a way that is much, much more palatable. If you are so slighted that you feel the need to constantly rage on the internet, perhaps you should sue tesla and force them to buy back your car. Or, perhaps sell it outright.

If you need another cat, let me know.
 
hmmm. ad hominem. Can we not have a clean debate?
How is what I said ad hominem? You are the one that said you were happy with what Tesla gave you .I'm sayING that I'm not. That's the position you are taking. So that seems to be germane to our discussion. Are you're saying that acquiescence is something to be disdained?

Your saying that I'm raging, now that's ad hominem.

They later readdressed it in a way that is much, much more palatable.

So just preemptively removing everyone's power, rather than when a problem is detected is more palatable?

Making customers pay for their shortsightedness is not palatable. That's theft. If they sold us something that is defective, they need to make us whole, not themselves.

If you are so slighted that you feel the need to constantly rage on the internet, perhaps you should sue tesla and force them to buy back your car.

P85DEE, did you hijack St Charles account?

I don't see it as an either / or.

You might find this more inspirational:

bigstock-Rear-view-of-a-male-British-bu-66642286.jpg
 
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I'll move this out of our pissing match.

Sport is no more consistent than Ludicrous. 1600A draw, however, I have experienced the car slow down as SoC drops. When I get back from travel, I can post them up if you like. In the interim, I suggest you experience this for yourself. There are several tracks in Florida.
Sport mode should be more consistent. The max current is constantly increased as the voltage of the pack drops with soc to maintain max power at 390kw. With both 1500 and 1600 amps, as the pack voltage drops so does max power. That is why the car slows down with soc.

I wish I had a 1/4 mile track close by. They're all 1/8 mile.
 
Also, your opinion on value doesn't match the market. A vehicle that destroys the battery over time due to an unaddressed design flaw will be inherently less valuable than a vehicle that doesn't. If you are trying to use the value angle then you would want this change.
No. I'm using the value angle that Tesla thinks it's free to decrease performance after the sale. And if this vehicle destroys the battery overtime due to an unaddressed design flaw, they owe us a new design. It's their problem, not ours. They want us to pay for their design flaw.

I don't see how the current method fixes anything. The guys who were likely to drive the car hard before are still going to with LM. After warranty, people will still be hit with big repair bills from those heavily used cars lowering the resale value. They should just fix the design flaw.

The original method was just to lower the power after a certain count, and since you don't care about power you should have been fine with that.
 
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Both @TIppy and @St Charles - you two give good data and support your opinions fairly.

The reason @TIppy feels Tesla has done wrong, and the reason that @St Charles feels Tesla has not, are both totally personal. I think this is a classic case of a time to "agree to disagree" .

Though I love the pictures.

You are absolutely correct. At this point I am just amusing myself.

@TIppy Honestly I wanted to see if you would come off your opinions. Props for keeping to your ideals.

How this all translates at the track has yet to be seen. I can say in my time with Mustangs, I have seen many a dynoqueen add 50 horsepower from a previous setup and have it mean diddly squat at the dragstrip. I'm not saying that is what will happen here but I also do not think the difference will be significant as people think. There were a lot of V1 cars that put respectable times down with 'only' 457kW available to them.


Here is another cat for good measure.
lil-bub-the-cat.jpg
 
Did some testing the other weekend between 90-95% charge.

Ludicrous 460kW at 1500A (Max Battery ready did not seem to make any noticable difference):
View attachment 238125 View attachment 238126

Ludicrous + Launch Mode 490kW at 1600A:
View attachment 238128 View attachment 238129

Bonus Sport Mode - noticable ramp with a max of 380kW at 1150A:
View attachment 238124 View attachment 238127

Which car and battery?

and can you add your data here:
Power limit with latest software update: Data
 
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