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Performance not getting 310 miles promised

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@ModelNforNerd Since that is not a recall... did you ask/complain about a range/charging issues? Often a TSB gets addresses if and when a customer brings up a complaint - though I will admit I had a tech ask me if I had any issues or questions about my car when a minor service was done. This was just 1 time though.


I haven't had any issues with my battery or range.
 
If you're driving faster than the EPA did to set the rated range, and you're using the A/C or heating a lot, you'll never get the rated range... but that would apply to any car, not just the EV.

Not true. I drove my 2016 Prius Touring 3 thru 2 Boston winters with the heat set to 70 for Uber passengers for over 50k miles and always got 60+mpg, averaging 64 when the EPA advertised numbers were 50hwy, 54 city.
 
Not true. I drove my 2016 Prius Touring 3 thru 2 Boston winters with the heat set to 70 for Uber passengers for over 50k miles and always got 60+mpg, averaging 64 when the EPA advertised numbers were 50hwy, 54 city.

Since ICE are less than 35% efficient, the other 65% is literally waste heat. This heat is a byproduct of making power from such an inefficient system (suck, squish, bang blow) with many moving parts. You get basically enough heat to maintain any cabin temperature.

Also, people like to compare the accuracy of the epa estimate for ICE vs EV, but there is really no relevance at all. ICE and EV are 2 systems with vastly different inputs.

I would support a more accurate EV EPA test. Normal people use the heater.
 
Since ICE are less than 35% efficient, the other 65% is literally waste heat. This heat is a byproduct of making power from such an inefficient system (suck, squish, bang blow) with many moving parts. You get basically enough heat to maintain any cabin temperature.

Also, people like to compare the accuracy of the epa estimate for ICE vs EV, but there is really no relevance at all. ICE and EV are 2 systems with vastly different inputs.

I would support a more accurate EV EPA test. Normal people use the heater.


I've found that the 3 seems to use some waste heat to heat the cabin. I try not to run the heat until I've been moving for a little bit, and my consumption doesn't seem as dramatic that way.
 
I've found that the 3 seems to use some waste heat to heat the cabin. I try not to run the heat until I've been moving for a little bit, and my consumption doesn't seem as dramatic that way.

Its just an illusion caused by your usage being divided over more miles. When you first start off with the heat on your wh/mi looks crazy high since you havent done any miles. Once you are moving you can divide those watts over more miles so it looks smaller but is the same consumption overall.

From what I know there is no way to send waste heat into the cabin.
 
Its just an illusion caused by your usage being divided over more miles. When you first start off with the heat on your wh/mi looks crazy high since you havent done any miles. Once you are moving you can divide those watts over more miles so it looks smaller but is the same consumption overall.

From what I know there is no way to send waste heat into the cabin.


Damn....my placebo was making me happy, though...
 
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I just picked up a performance 3 coming off a LR RWD getting about 250 Wh/mi (over a 100 mile total commute), and not driving at 65mph in the very early and very late return commute hours.

The P is pushing around 350 Wh/mi, only thing that I’m seeing to help solve this is new wheels and tires as well (only 18s that seem to fit the P are the tsportline turbines), and matching them up with the stock primacys from the aeros (since aero 18 wheels won’t fit).

Does this make sense to do or is there a more cost effective way to go about this?

18" wheels will help. Tesla still doesn't make Aeros that will fit the performance brakes but Tire Rack has quite a few sets that will fit. I've ordered two, both fit fine.
 
Sure, but to first order it doesn’t matter if you’re talking about range. If you’re constantly speeding up and slowing down you’re never going to get the rated range anyway, so that particular case (where wheel/tire weight matters a little more) isn’t too relevant to the discussion.

The OP is concerned about how to get close to the rated 310-mile range. And for that my opinion is that it is tires first, aero second, then wheel weight.

Tires are a constant drag. Wheels, on the other hand (except for aero losses), once they are spinning, they’ll stay spinning basically forever (neglecting all other sources of drag which slow the wheels down - like the TIRES). That is why tires matter and weight does not (to FIRST ORDER). It’s the sources of drag that limit your range! Otherwise these cars would go forever!

And as I said earlier, it takes more energy to get the boat anchor wheels spinning, sure, but it is a small percentage of overall vehicle weight (which, YES, would matter on a racetrack/drag strip where every fraction of a second counts!), AND you get a large fraction of it back on regen. And this process (to FIRST ORDER) only happens one time on a long freeway run. (And yes, as mentioned earlier...the EPA numbers are a blend of highway and city driving...so yes, this is a first order effect argument...of course lighter wheels will help a tiny bit - just not as much as something that matters for every inch you travel - tire rolling resistance)
It will be interesting to see for sure, but in real world driving cars are constantly speeding up and slowing down, going uphills and going down hills. I think the aero covers made like a 3% - 4% difference with them on vs off at freeway speeds. Tires can make a big difference for sure, I just wonder if changing them will be more beneficial than lightening the wheels. I would do both before worrying about aero covers though.

From charts I have seen slowing down will help more than anything else :)
 
It will be interesting to see for sure, but in real world driving cars are constantly speeding up and slowing down, going uphills and going down hills. I think the aero covers made like a 3% - 4% difference with them on vs off at freeway speeds. Tires can make a big difference for sure, I just wonder if changing them will be more beneficial than lightening the wheels. I would do both before worrying about aero covers though.

My guess is we will never know the answer, we’ll just argue about it! :)

I promise that if I get 18” and rig up aero covers somehow, I will do all the experiments I can. But I can probably not run enough controls to draw all the conclusions we need. If I follow through on my plan to get three sets of 18” wheels (range, winter, and autocross), maybe I will be able to, though! Wheel weight still might not be possible to control out though even with three extra wheel sets.
 
My guess is we will never know the answer, we’ll just argue about it! :)

I promise that if I get 18” and rig up aero covers somehow, I will do all the experiments I can. But I can probably not run enough controls to draw all the conclusions we need. If I follow through on my plan to get three sets of 18” wheels (range, winter, and autocross), maybe I will be able to, though! Wheel weight still might not be possible to control out though even with three extra wheel sets.

These guys did some testing on the 18s:
Tesla Model 3 Aero vs Non-Aero wheels real-world efficiency test
 

Yeah that is fine. Aero helps, everyone knows that (but the worse your tires, the less aero helps, in terms of miles of range)! But look at Troy’s spreadsheet and compare the 20” to 18” without Aeros. It’s a much larger delta than Aeros vs no Aeros. I guarantee you it is not due to the weight difference (which is something like a total of 12 pounds for all 4 wheels combined (and yes, sure, the location of the weight affects the moment of inertia calculation...but my guess is it doesn’t change that much %-wise) between the 20” and the 18”!

Anecdote: I have a friend who is running 265 section width PS4S tires on really nice light 18” wheels (well under 20 pounds I think) and his efficiency is AWFUL even when not at freeway speed where the wheel “poke” from the wider wheels will hurt him. He routinely gets 350-400Wh/mi in San Diego. With no heat he is at 330-350 or something. Hard to draw conclusions since driver habits matter a lot too. But it doesn’t look good for the tires!
 
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