TheLastDon
Member
Ever since Musk bought Twitter, it's been an endless stream of negative articles against all of his companies. They seek to destroy him. Believe nothing from this wicked legacy media we have in the West.
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Ever since Musk bought Twitter, it's been an endless stream of negative articles against all of his companies. They seek to destroy him. Believe nothing from this wicked legacy media we have in the West.
I ask because I'm wondering if Tesla replaced your battery with a lithium-ion one.
Tesla won't put their 16v lithium ion battery in a car that uses a 12v lead acid battery, the system is not compatible.I ask because I'm wondering if Tesla replaced your battery with a lithium-ion one.
My previous car, a Ford Edge, did give me warning, but they were in a secret code.I have had ICE vehicles where the batteries went dead without any warning, no slow cranking or dim headlights, they just were dead when I tried to start them.
Because kids and child locks. You don't want an easily pulled release on the back for this reason. Legally a manual release is not required anyways in the back (the older Model 3 doesn't have one).Makes me wonder why Tesla did not just use the same manual release design as the front doors for the rear doors.
Believe it or not, Tesla did not invent frameless car windows. They have existed for over 20 years. Amazingly, all the other automakers with frameless windows can still manage to drop the window even with a mechanical door release and without potential for glass damage for using the mechanical door release.
Frameless car windows have been around for a very long time. Why do you need the Window to go up and down when you open and close the door.
Both have been reported to get damaged when closing a Tesla door if the glass didn’t dropIt's not glass damage, but trim damage.
The Model S used to have that for the front doors (not for the back because of the same child lock issue). They switched to the Model 3 design later. I think that design is actually more expensive because the mechanism is more complex.Better yet (and probably cheaper) would be to have only the mechanical door release handle that actuates the electric door release (that lowers the frameless window a bit) with a light pull and the mechanical door release with a stronger pull, for all of the doors. Then it would be obvious to use normally, and the most obvious try in a dead battery situation would open the door.
Because kids and child locks. You don't want an easily pulled release on the back for this reason. Legally a manual release is not required anyways in the back (the older Model 3 doesn't have one).
Yes, those were likely child locks. When it is activated, there is no way to open the rear doors from the inside. You must unlock the car and open the door from the outside. The door must be open to activate or deactivate them.Understood; I seem to remember a little lever inside the edge of the rear doors on some of my older cars. These levers were not accessable when the doors were closed. I believe they were a child lock; not sure, never used them.
Yeah, it looks like I misread 3sr+buyers' post. At first, I thought he was saying a 'slight pull' would lower the window (via an electronic switch) and a 'full pull' would activate the mechanical release for the door itself. In other words, you would always have to give the door handle a full pull to exit the vehicle. So, I was thinking your response was misplaced. Then, I reread the post and now I see your point.The Model S used to have that for the front doors (not for the back because of the same child lock issue). They switched to the Model 3 design later. I think that design is actually more expensive because the mechanism is more complex.
The current design, the button is just a simple button and the mechanical release is just a cable puller. It doesn't get more simple and inexpensive than that.
I think the issue with dual stage design is drivers may get used to pulling just enough to release the door for daily driving and never think to pull harder/further (similar issue with the "pull twice" mechanism in some other cars). Make something idiot-proof and they invent a better idiot.
She' not that dumb. She got your attention by making up a story, and the news media got your attention and got clicks by reporting that story. Success.
But being locked IN the car after having recently opened the door to get in is weird. The 12V had enough power to open the door initially which should have woken up the car and closed the HV contactors, thereby switching to the DC-DC converter to power all accessories from the HV battery. Unless it very coincidentally literally just had enough power to trip the door latch but not enough to flip the contactors and power the DC-DC converter.
Physics. Sometimes it can give you a warning, but sometimes it can't.
Is that Schrödinger's warning?
If not, then it'd be Schrödinger who became a bloody corpse one he eventually opened the box!
I just learned something. Not sure why but I had assumed the 12V battery powered the accessories, without getting power from the HV battery. And that the HV only used the DC-DC converter to top off the 12V battery, when needed.The 12V had enough power to open the door initially which should have woken up the car and closed the HV contactors, thereby switching to the DC-DC converter to power all accessories from the HV battery. Unless it very coincidentally literally just had enough power to trip the door latch but not enough to flip the contactors and power the DC-DC converter.
What you say is true when the car is asleep, when the car is awake however, 12V (nominal, actual voltage may be higher) is provided by the DC-DC. The 12V battery is still connected on the bus, but essentially no net power gets pulled from it when the DC-DC is active.I just learned something. Not sure why but I had assumed the 12V battery powered the accessories, without getting power from the HV battery. And that the HV only used the DC-DC converter to top off the 12V battery, when needed.
Another story, same station,