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Put on new tires, now the car is handling weird.

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Go back and re-read. I said a CLEAR stretch of OPEN highway. Meaning no other cars around. I'm not THAT big of an idiot.:rolleyes:
In my years of forum'ing, I have learned that mentioning any sort of dangerous or irresponsible behaviour on public roads will get you flame, regardless of whether the road was clear or there were no people around. One time on the 8thcivic forum a got a guy arrested because he bragged about driving double the speed limit in a school zone. They figured out what road, found witnesses who live on that road, then got the police involved.
 
In my years of forum'ing, I have learned that mentioning any sort of dangerous or irresponsible behaviour on public roads will get you flame, regardless of whether the road was clear or there were no people around. One time on the 8thcivic forum a got a guy arrested because he bragged about driving double the speed limit in a school zone. They figured out what road, found witnesses who live on that road, then got the police involved.

It shouldn’t take long to track down the only Model 3 with 2 snow tires on it. ;)
 
no, hes not joking. thats the schtick

Ah, yes, I see that now. From an earlier thread below:


My 3 RWD LR hit 13000 miles today, and while I was at the Tesla Service Center getting the left side headlight changed, they said my tires were 5/32 for the fronts and 1/32 for the rears.:eek: Those numbers are a bit low, for the scare-the-customer-into-buying-now effect. They didn't know who they were talking to, or my extreme amount of auto repair experience on my own cars for 25+ years. The fronts have good tread, but the rears are smooth with the tops of the wear bars in the treads.

In the old 1970's Chrysler cars I drove for many many years, tires weren't "worn out" until I could see the second layer of steel belts. Back in those days, paying for a set of 4 new tires was something that could only happen at tax refund time! But I won't do that in my Tesla.

My driving is a mix of highway and stop-n-go city, and it was claimed that the forces of the regen helps wear the tires out, but even so, 13000 miles and the rears are beat? I'll need a good set of 235-45-18 winter tires for the rear, but I'm not putting them on until December, no sense wearing down their treads until they are needed.

I'm sure my frequent 0-60, 0-80, and sometimes 0-100 runs aren't helping the rear tire life either.
 
The tire shop did mention that new tires should go on the rear, and they knew what tires it already had, no one talked of mixing winter and all seasons. Even the Tesla service center people didn't say anything about having to have 4 winter tires, not just 2.

If I had 4 winter tires, wouldn't the front be loose also?

Maybe I can run the front tires at 32 psi or so and "soften" them up to match the rears?

I'd move the rears up to sidewall max instead of lowering the PSI on the front.

Keep in mind sidewall max is a cold rating. Meaning you haven't driven in the last 6 hours and preferably at the coldest time of the day. If you have a garage or are checking during a warm part of the day add 1 PSI for each 10 degree difference between the garage/current temp and the low outside temp for the day.

For example

* sidewall max 51 PSI, you have a garage at 50F and outside low is 10F, while in the garage you should have the tire set at 55PSI.

* sidewall max 51 PSI, you have a garage at 60F and outside low is 40F, while in the garage you should have the tire set at 53PSI.

running any tire below the Tesla recommended PSI is going to reduce traction, especially in snow if you are checking PSI hot and not accounting for lower PSI at lower temps.
 
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Ah, yes, I see that now. From an earlier thread below:

Extreme amount of auto repair experience for 25+ years and doesn’t understand the importance of proper tread depth nevertheless properly matched tires. If he’s getting passed for safety inspections with steel belts showing...no wonder the tire shop didn’t mention the recommendation for snows on all fours.

I see were not gonna get anywhere with providing useful info.
 
I called the tire place today, they can order me a pair of Michelin primacy mxm4 to replace the rears with oem tires.

Pro tip: for the model 3 you must specify the 98w extra load version of the tire, they aren't all the same.

These tires are $309 each, changing them will cost me an extra $221 with tax. Or for only a few dollars more, I could get a third X Ice3 and put it on the front on one side :)
 
I called the tire place today, they can order me a pair of Michelin primacy mxm4 to replace the rears with oem tires.

Pro tip: for the model 3 you must specify the 98w extra load version of the tire, they aren't all the same.

These tires are $309 each, changing them will cost me an extra $221 with tax. Or for only a few dollars more, I could get a third X Ice3 and put it on the front on one side :)

Pro tip: rotate your tires ;)
 
I can’t believe I just read that... :eek:

This entire thread is about how mixing tire types degrades handling and increases the risk of losing control of the car. So then you go almost double the legal speed limit — in wintertime — to see how the car “feels”?
And he expects $400 OEM rims for $100 each. This guy sent me an ugly eBay message pushing me to sell my OEM rims for $100 each. I am actually losing money on that auction at $1375 for the set. His avatar references a noob, this is where I restrain myself...
 
To answer one question posed a few times - my 3 is a LR RWD, I got it on May 8. There were no AWD cars then.

These tires have about 120 miles on them so far, I'll drive them more and see how things change. I can say I've noticed no increase in road noise, and I felt the tires by hand, they are definitely a softer rubber.

I wouldn't have a problem with putting on 4 tires, except they cost twice as much. It makes me think back to the "good old days" of the late 90s and early 2000s with my 1971 Plymouth Valiant I had at the time. I was making less money then. I'd go from worn out tires (tires were considered worn out when I got to the second layer of steel belts) to LESS worn out tires. Buying 4 new tires was something that could only possibly happen at tax refund time. Worrying about if the tires I was able to get were regular, all season, or winter tires wasn't a concern. Whichever tires were the right size and cheapest were the ones I got. Some of that old cheapness (or just plain lack of money, as it was at the time) remains, even if I can now whip out the credit card and get tires put on.

Wow. F U for being cheap in a way that endangers others.

Being a motorcyclist has made me respect tires more. Knowing that the only thing between you and almost certain death or dismemberment are two nickel sized contact patches, no ABS, no TCS, no stability control - it makes you respect the rubber.
 
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Hi I wanted to add my two cents. I’ve had this problem EVERY time I had my wheels repaired at a shop in Mesa. I think it’s because they use the pneumatic sockets to tighten down the rim. The back end feels squirrelly and unsafe!
They didn’t seem to notice but I went home, jacked up the car, loosened the lugs and tightened them back up with a lug wrench. Problem solved! Every time too. It’s got to be some way that they’re tightening the lugs. I don’t use them anymore and haven’t seen the issue come back.
 
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[I wouldn't have a problem with putting on 4 tires, except they cost twice as much. It makes me think back to the "good old days" of the late 90s and early 2000s with my 1971 Plymouth Valiant I had at the time. I was making less money then. I'd go from worn out tires (tires were considered worn out when I got to the second layer of steel belts) to LESS worn out tires. Buying 4 new tires was something that could only possibly happen at tax refund time. Worrying about if the tires I was able to get were regular, all season, or winter tires wasn't a concern. Whichever tires were the right size and cheapest were the ones I got. Some of that old cheapness (or just plain lack of money, as it was at the time) remains, even if I can now whip out the credit card and get tires put on.[/QUOTE]

I had a 69 Plymouth Valiant, bought used for $700 in 1975. Loved that car! Straight 6 in it!

As I have always said to my Son, when he started to drive and own cars... ALWAYS make sure you have good tires and brakes on your car. It may save your life, or some one else's life. NEVER take a chance with your life! Maintain the vehicle!

And, ALWAYS 4 snow tires. Don't cheap out and take a chance that may cause harm.

4 snows on each of 2 Miatas...absolutely no problems driving in the winter. 4 snows on a Mercedes... well, let's just say the Miatas did better.

Just had Blizzaks put on my Model 3. I bought Enkei RPF1 wheels and had the tires mounted on them at Tire Rack. Look good and handle very nice. Quieter than the Continentals.

I've used Blizzaks on the Miatas and loved them... Just had to remember to remind Husband that the snow tires were on the Miata and not the Toyos as he rounded a bend and almost slid us into a fence one Spring afternoon. Toyos stick to the road better.
 
Hi I wanted to add my two cents. I’ve had this problem EVERY time I had my wheels repaired at a shop in Mesa. I think it’s because they use the pneumatic sockets to tighten down the rim. The back end feels squirrelly and unsafe!
They didn’t seem to notice but I went home, jacked up the car, loosened the lugs and tightened them back up with a lug wrench. Problem solved! Every time too. It’s got to be some way that they’re tightening the lugs. I don’t use them anymore and haven’t seen the issue come back.

I find that incredibly hard to believe. Good idea to retorque them though, for many other reasons, just not this one.