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Vendor Rear Adjustable Camber Bushings for Model S/X Group Buy
- Thread starter EVTuning
- Start date
After buying a ‘17 P100D from Tesla this summer on fresh 21” Michelins I drove for a little less than 6k miles before noticing that the innermost 1” of my front tires were showing metal this past weekend. The rest of the tire was like new. I replaced the fronts with Michelin All Seasons yesterday and took it in for an alignment today. I came here because of a search to see what people are doing on stock cars to try to reduce rear negative camber. (The fronts were shot on mine because my car had way too much toe out). I had my car aligned today on Low, but before pulling the alignment heads off, I raised the car to Standard to see the change in specs. (L/R) Front camber went from -1.0/-.6 to -.6/-.4. Rear went from -2.0/-2.2 to -2.0/-1.5
dark cloud
Active Member
One rear reduced camber by 0.7 degrees, and the other one was unchanged? That makes no sense, unless one of the struts is not working??
I sold my car shortly after I got them. I also sold the arms earlier this week. If I got another S and lowered it, I would get them again.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
I bought the EV Tuning ones today. They should get here in a couple weeks. When they do, I’ll post more info.
my plan is to remove the old control arms, set the adjustable arms to the same length, drive immediately to an alignment shop, and get my camber adjusted. Then, boom! done.
my plan is to remove the old control arms, set the adjustable arms to the same length, drive immediately to an alignment shop, and get my camber adjusted. Then, boom! done.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Probably just a modification of the factory specs. Keep everything factory, except get the rear camber as neutral as I can while keeping the wheels in the arches, I'm hoping that equates to about -1.5 degrees each side.
Pluturi
Member
IMHO, align with car on low and try for 0.9 degrees camber and 0.1 toe. Add a little toe if the rear wanders too much, but mine tracks well. BTW, running 285/30 on the rear, YMMV. Alignment is slightly off with high suspension settings, but that is on dirt roads so I don't care.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
that's the goal. I'm also running 285/30/21 on the rear, on some Vossens that are like 0.5mm from the strut tower.....so the more neutral camber will do me good.
Can you share pictures of your stance with 0.9 camber?
Really +0.9 camber (positive)? Or did you write 0.9 assuming performance cars always have some degree of negative camber out back? Honest question/just making sure as I’m debating on getting a set of camber arms as well. Thx.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Folks,
My EV Tuning Camber Arms arrived today. These look sharp, and I'm excited to get them installed. I'm going to take my factory ones out, and line up the bolt holes so the alignment is unaffected until I have time to go get it re-aligned.
Does anyone have any alignment specs that they recommend? Not sure how a flatter rear camber would impact the factory toe specs...
FYI, the average user ONLY needs the camber arms. The factory toe arms have plenty of adjustability in them, and they're pretty labor intensive to replace anyway. I believe you'd have to drop the subframe.
My EV Tuning Camber Arms arrived today. These look sharp, and I'm excited to get them installed. I'm going to take my factory ones out, and line up the bolt holes so the alignment is unaffected until I have time to go get it re-aligned.
Does anyone have any alignment specs that they recommend? Not sure how a flatter rear camber would impact the factory toe specs...
FYI, the average user ONLY needs the camber arms. The factory toe arms have plenty of adjustability in them, and they're pretty labor intensive to replace anyway. I believe you'd have to drop the subframe.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Pluturi
Member
I drove cross country RT and it felt perfect.
I think the only thing to be cautious of is the suspension height when aligning as not too many shops are familiar with that ability in MS. When I suggested aligning in Low as that's where I intended to run, Electrified Garage was adamant that it should be aligned in Standard after getting it on the alignment rack and cycling it up to High and then back to Standard.
I think the only thing to be cautious of is the suspension height when aligning as not too many shops are familiar with that ability in MS. When I suggested aligning in Low as that's where I intended to run, Electrified Garage was adamant that it should be aligned in Standard after getting it on the alignment rack and cycling it up to High and then back to Standard.
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