N2itive
Member
BostonBurley it was great meeting you in person. Glad it all worked out. If you need help with anything just let me know.
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Installed the beautiful new rear control arms, however, it did not fix the issue with my rear suspension being at max height and absolutely zero compression/rebound control. FML. Outta money and no way to get it fixed in time for my sisters wedding in the Midwest (the reason I got new tires and tried to fix the camber issue).
My advice? Don’t mod your high mileage car, ESPECIALLY an early VIN Model S.
Oh no!! Was hoping the new camber arms would sort the issue out. Have you tried getting new height sensors? Have you also confirmed that the new camber arms have the same ball position as the stock ones for the lowering link? My bet is on the height sensor being faultyInstalled the beautiful new rear control arms, however, it did not fix the issue with my rear suspension being at max height and absolutely zero compression/rebound control. FML. Outta money and no way to get it fixed in time for my sisters wedding in the Midwest (the reason I got new tires and tried to fix the camber issue).
My advice? Don’t mod your high mileage car, ESPECIALLY an early VIN Model S.
I’m considering buying each sensor on eBay as it would cost just $100 and one hour diagnosis at Tesla is $200. If they aren’t the problem I could sell them.Oh no!! Was hoping the new camber arms would sort the issue out. Have you tried getting new height sensors? Have you also confirmed that the new camber arms have the same ball position as the stock ones for the lowering link? My bet is on the height sensor being faulty
I mean you could save $200 and DIY it, doesn't seem too difficult of a job. Its just a little weird that both sensors went at onceI’m considering buying each sensor on eBay as it would cost just $100 and one hour diagnosis at Tesla is $200. If they aren’t the problem I could sell them.
they tried to force level my car when it was in service and it wouldn’t do it. I’m curious if they left some setting to leave it where it’s at and assumed they’d come back to it but never did.
there’s so many unknowns with these cars and being out of warranty you’re a secondary focus, despite paying a premium. So yeah, sensors next if I can.
I meant that it’s cheaper to buy and install sensors than to pay them to tell me it needs more diagnostic time, with no guarantee of progress. They did that to me last time. I sincerely got the vibe from the mechanic to take my car elsewhere :/I mean you could save $200 and DIY it, doesn't seem too difficult of a job. Its just a little weird that both sensors went at once
Yesssss! Congrats and safe travels to your sis’s wedding!It’s fixed! It was the camber arms after all. I rebooted the computers and powered off, but that didn’t fix. Then I rebooted a second time, after power off, and it was magically level front and rear. N2itive arms to the rescue.
Thats awesome!!! Happy to hear it worked out, enjoy your sisters wedding!It’s fixed! It was the camber arms after all. I rebooted the computers and powered off, but that didn’t fix. Then I rebooted a second time, after power off, and it was magically level front and rear. N2itive arms to the rescue.
I ordered some affordable rear toe arms in hopes of getting what I wanted and need. If I had known adjustable rear control arms alone would only reduce camber by .7-.9, it would’ve given me a more realistic view of what $1,000 minimum would afford me: slightly less camber with a fresh alignment. My situation with paying Tesla for hours of diagnostic help with the camber king arms almost doubled that price, but I don’t take that out on anyone but myself.BostonBurley, I'm not sure where this is coming from but the goal of N2itive in this situation is to make sure you don't have inner tire wear, not to sell you parts you don't need. At -1.5 camber you're still going to get inner tire wear although I'm sure it will be much better than what it was before. We recommend -1.0 rear camber and 0.15-0.20 for rear toe because then your tires will wear evenly and you'll maintain a good contact patch on cornering all while being within Tesla's spec. Some owners can reach this or come close to it with just adjustable camber arms. Others will need the adjustable toe arms as well. Definitely if the vehicle is lowered or if the vehicle has aged bushings on other components which can change the geometry of the suspension. You mentioned that you wouldn't recommend modding a high mileage Tesla but I don't know what option you would have had. I've been in your exact situation with inner tire wear and needing new rear tires every 5,000 miles is just not practical.
Just for the record I did take the car to Just Tires, a race tuning shop in Alhambra with Supra’s and NSX parked in the lot, highly recommended on Yelp. They have done the UP arms on other cars and they thought THATS what I had, until they were under there working on it. After 30 minutes of trying to loosen torx bolts they told me they couldn’t do it bc they would need a special tool.I'm sorry you ran into problems with the camber arms from Ebay. I know it's a lot of wasted money to throw out the window. So I feel for you. In regards to the difficulty of working with our arms, the installers that I've talked to who have installed dozens of our products prefer adjusting our arms since we don't use a jam nut design requiring them to fit two wrenches in such a tight area at the same time to lock it down. Perhaps if you're comparing installing the arms backwards where you would have more room to work but then this creates another problem where the ride height sensor link is out of position when you adjust the length of the arm which changes the height of the car. With our toe arm it's no problem you can install it backwards to have easier access to adjustment. But anyway you don't have to drive all the way to 714 tires. There are plenty of shops in LA that will do it. You're not stuck by any stretch! You just can't take it to the big corporate alignment shops. The smaller custom shops have no issues dealing with adjustable aftermarket control arms. They work with them all the time. I recommend 714 because they have a lot of experience with our parts and I've seen them dial in spot on perfect alignments. Something else to consider though is safety and the strength of the arms. We're the only manufacture that keeps the threaded rod on center with the bushings. This eliminates the most important stress riser for this design. In our FEA testing while developing this camber arm we saw an increase in strength by over 40% by keeping the bushings on center. This is important for me because I know I've done the best I could do with this design and none of my customers will ever suffer a catastrophic failure using our parts. Honestly the ebay arms are flat our scary to me. If I can be of any assistance let me know.