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Repairing a Flooded Tesla Model S : HOW-TO

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What the GreatSaltLake??????


Would you be able to scrape about a tablespoon of that and see if you can dissolve it in about a half-cup of water? I'm wondering if all of that is marine evaporates, or something else.

I've got plenty, I can gladly ship you some as well

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Well, I hope at least that part was therapeutic.


yes, puts me right to sleep.
 
Lots of salt, sand and minerals in the ocean...

Looks like those vise grips went thru the flood too...

bite your tongue. I love those vice grips!!

I'll give you $100 + shipping for that charger. :p Dunno if it's toast or not... would be fun to find out.

I'm sure you can revive it, just need some plugs for the coolant lines. Please post a thread showing the steps you take for repair
 
Btr,

You are to be commended on the thread. If not a bit haphazard, it inspired me to join TMC so that I could comment.

While I have never washed any circuit boards, my father (also an electrical engineer from the era when things were repaired rather than replaced) claims that his favorite method was to put them in the dish washer. That said, the folks at Tektronix know a thing or two about cleaning circuit boards so you might find this useful: Tektronix: Washing Your Instrument

Good luck with the project!
 
Grab the front of the lower seat cushion in the center of each of the 2 L/R seating positions with both hands and yank up sharply. You must do the "sharp yank", a slow pry will mess up the seat and/or the plastic catch. Same thing for the side bolsters on the rear seats, except you yank out at the top then when they release you pull them up to remove.

Once the bolsters are out then there is a little white plastic retainer (some cars it's black) at the side hinge for the seat backs. Put the seat backs forward and use a flat blade to pry the white retainer away from the side of the car while slowly lifting the seat. There is a "magic position" where the white retainer moves closer to the seat back. Once this has moved as far as it will, then simply lift the seat pivot out of the base. Then the middle side pivot slides out away from the other seat back. Do the passenger side first.

Just above the hatch light on the hatch itself, there is a little rectangular cover. Unsnap this and then there is a little black plastic pull tab that's velcroed there. Pull and then lift the hatch while pulling.
 
You da man. Thanks. I followed your instructions but managed to deform the side bolsters anyway.

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UPDATE

I'd like to drop the DU and give the interior a bath.

Looking for suggestions on how to start with the re-immersion.

Hose down and vaccum with shop vac?
Spot wash with distilled water?
Spot Wipe with damp cloth?

Also looking for what solution to soak the wiring harness in.
 
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I'll put this out there now, here are the 2 things I REALLY REALLY REALLY don't want to do to this car..

1) Remove the motor
2) Remove battery pack.... and having to go into the battery pack


Unfortunately... this seems unlikely. I will definitely need assistance/guidance from some of the guys in the 'hacking thread" with getting diagnostic info from the pack so hopefully they find their way over here.


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Anyway. more on the DU dropping later.


I had a chance to pull out the in cabin heater and it took about 25 mins... TWENTY FIVE minutes for a HEATER CORE? Do you have any idea how long a heater core replacement takes in a normal car????

I LOVE WORKING ON THIS CAR (so far)

I slide under the passenger side glovebox, unbolted 3 screws and it slid right out. BAM. just like that, you can clearly see the water line


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Just out of sheer curiosity, now that you know where the water line is, can you measure how high it was from some point of reference? I'd ask you to measure from the ground, but with the suspension shot, that won't be a useful measurement. Maybe how far from the bottom surface of the battery?
 
Do you have any more pictures of the PTC heater controller board? I expected to see resistance wire and high voltage, with the switching being controlled by the DC-DC directly. But, it looks like there's a fair bit of electronics on it, including IGBT or MOSFET switches, which is interesting. Maybe it even has some kind of pulse-width modulation given the inductor and capacitor bank, I was expecting to see a thermostatic control system but perhaps that wasn't precise enough.

And that board looks pretty salvageable for what it's worth, just needs a good clean with IPA and a toothbrush + cotton bud.