That is what I am looking for! Fully trashed panels but a somewhat 'working' car. 10k sounds like a great deal
My project won't have doors or be street legal
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My project won't have doors or be street legal
If you dig around my other thread you can find the amount.
A salvage model S can go for serious money. I've seen a few salvages in the 30s. People keep bidding and buying so there is clearly a market!
What many of you aren't realizing is that if I turn around and say enough is enough... the car in this condition is not worth zero. My "investment" is not completely lost in the least bit.
2013 Tesla Model s LH Left Rear Suspension Arms Knuckle Spindle Caliper Axle | eBay
2300$ for just the left rear suspension knuckle with the wiring harness cut up. Even more for the front (about 2800 to 3000) as more collisions involve the front of the car.
Don't forget the sunroof (1000), hood (200), rear 1/4 panel (1200 each) , doors (200 each), and front and rear subframes (500 each), keys (150 each), wait till you see what a Tesla dashboard goes for, you'll be quite shocked.. and last but not least... the beloved MCU (which is confirmed working).
My attitude is cavalier because this is a CALCULATED risk, If I fail the car is worth more in parts than it is in one piece.
I also forgot... prices will also go up this year for used parts as the early adopters (2012 cars) with the 4 year warranties are coming to an end soon
I did the digging, you know what, that's not as bad as I thought (for the lazy, it was $13k, OP if you want everyone to search, I'll edit my post).
I see why you did it, once you part it out, you'll be well in the green plus a good learning experience. :thumbsup:
iKhalid
Member
I've been following and enjoying the thread since it started. @Btr_ftw I like your attitude and the way you look at things. If the car eventually doesn't run and you still have the space for it, then take your time parting it out for sure. I would do exactly the same if I had the time and space.
It's so funny how all these guys want to help save you from yourself, but it's like a train wreck that nobody can stop watching...Now your secret is out, for the win!
All of my favorite projects have been stupid, so I have nothing but love for btr's efforts here. He is quite right that the same thing that makes this project expensive also makes it viable. Tesla's extremely high parts costs create an aftermarket where the parts can be sold for surprising amounts. I'd also offer a shout out to Ingineer's impressive knowledge. This is a fun thread.
I have to read the diagnostic info from the MCU first but .....IF.... I repeat IF... I have to drop the pack, there is a high likelihood that I would have to do it in my garage (crazy, I know... don't think this has ever been done before) I would more than likely jack the car on jackstands as high as it can go and attach these adapters to my 2 jacks (possibly 3 jacks)
Pressing it against the battery as firmly as they can go without lifting the car further, undoing the bolts, then lowering the battery one side at at time (inch by inch with the 2 or 3 jacks). I have already thought about this and I am dreading this day.
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I've seen damage bills higher than that
The plan is not to go to Tesla with the parts that I need, because A) I need parts that they will not sell me (there is a restricted parts list) and B) the prices would be astronomical.
I'd love to buy a used inexpensive Tesla but I can't justify spending 40k+ on a car that is driven 3 miles to the train station everyday and then just sits for 12 hours. I'm at least getting to have fun and get in at a lower and somewhat more reasonable price point. I can afford a 50k car yes, but its way more fun spending less!
I have to read the diagnostic info from the MCU first but .....IF.... I repeat IF... I have to drop the pack, there is a high likelihood that I would have to do it in my garage (crazy, I know... don't think this has ever been done before) I would more than likely jack the car on jackstands as high as it can go and attach these adapters to my 2 jacks (possibly 3 jacks)
View attachment 109512
Pressing it against the battery as firmly as they can go without lifting the car further, undoing the bolts, then lowering the battery one side at at time (inch by inch with the 2 or 3 jacks). I have already thought about this and I am dreading this day.
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I've seen damage bills higher than that
The plan is not to go to Tesla with the parts that I need, because A) I need parts that they will not sell me (there is a restricted parts list) and B) the prices would be astronomical.
I'd love to buy a used inexpensive Tesla but I can't justify spending 40k+ on a car that is driven 3 miles to the train station everyday and then just sits for 12 hours. I'm at least getting to have fun and get in at a lower and somewhat more reasonable price point. I can afford a 50k car yes, but its way more fun spending less!
Oxymoron...there may be a less expensive Tesla somewhere, but there is no inexpensive Tesla's!
I also love the thread and your attitude about it. Regrettably, I would also be in too much of a hurry that I would do the same things (mistakes??) you have. At some point, however, you're going to have to rename this thread ;-)
I'll happily send you a few of my projects!
I have a Jeep that I'm trying to fix up and ever since I got the Tesla its been sitting in my driveway (tires flat, battery dead) last time I moved it was to clear space for the MS!
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to what?
green1
Active Member
May I suggest a slightly different approach, lift the car, lower the car with pack down on to wheeled dollies, undo the bolts, then raise the car off of the pack. it's easier to control most jacks going up than down, and it will be easier to move the pack around sitting on dollies than on 2-3 jacks.
Ok can you describe this to me in more detail? I feel like I'm missing something. If I lower the pack and car onto wheeled dollies I can't access the bolts to remove the pack. Also the pack shouldn't be used to support the weight of the vehicle, but maybe I'm misunderstanding you.
palmer_md
Member
A large portion of this video, from Otmar, shows how to raise the car over the pack. I imagine it could be done this way without the lift and a short cart, but would be difficult. I suppose it is difficult to do in any fashion.
Wheels are Turning - YouTube
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This is how I did it, though I had a forklift to lift the car. I think I could do it with 2 decent jacks tough if I had to. I used the car wheel dollies ( Amazon.com: ATD Tools 7466 Heavy Duty Car Dolly Set: Automotive ) placed under the pack with a few 2x4's on top to spread the load. Worked perfectly! It's a lot easier to pull/install the pack w/o the drive unit in, but I have done it both ways.
The only gotcha is you have to have enough room on the concrete to either slide the pack out the back or diagonally.
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You first take out all the middle and front bolts, and the shear plates with the car in the air, then lower the car onto the dollies situated under the pack. As long as you aren't blocking the rockers, it's easy to then remove the final bolts and lift the car body off the pack. The pack will indeed easily take the weight of the body.
green1
Active Member
As Ingineer has actually done it, I defer to his description, but basically the height of the dollies should be enough to get a wrench on the bolts around the edge of the pack, and while the pack can't support the vehicle in a single small spot, if you spread the weight out enough there's no reason not to support everything that way (I like Ingineer's 2x4 idea)
Ok thanks. I havent looked under there as yet but I was trying to get an idea of how much height clearance I would need to remove the bolts around the pack. Meaning can I undo them with hand tools or do I need to whip out the battery impact (I would need more height clearance for that).
In terms of having room to slide out the pack (I would have to slide it out the side of the car), can the vehicle be supported by the front and rear crossmembers?
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Ok I understand now. I just wanted to make sure removing middle, front and rear bolts wont send the battery crashing down.
In terms of having room to slide out the pack (I would have to slide it out the side of the car), can the vehicle be supported by the front and rear crossmembers?
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Ok I understand now. I just wanted to make sure removing middle, front and rear bolts wont send the battery crashing down.
not much progress last night, but for the heck of it I decided to check the fuses, turns out of all the fuses only one is blown. Its the 30A fuse that handles the exterior and interior lighting... interesting
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one of the codes thrown by the car was the "service heater" code. It looks like the water line reached that as well. *SIGH* this does not look pleasant to remove. I'd like to avoid pulling the dash if possible.
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one of the codes thrown by the car was the "service heater" code. It looks like the water line reached that as well. *SIGH* this does not look pleasant to remove. I'd like to avoid pulling the dash if possible.
pedriscoll
Active Member
I have been following this thread with increasing interest. I really like Btr's attitude and desire to accept a challenge. Even if restoring the car ultimately does not succeed, the pursuit of this quest is admirable. Btr, your are a brave man. I wish you the best of luck in this endeavor, and will continue to follow...
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