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RIP #994
- Thread starter NomoC8
- Start date
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- Tags
- Marketplace Roadster
Either way you probably need to pul the pack. So while it’s out it would take only a little more effort to swap the BMB boards for the bypass ones and see if they take and hold a charge. It would make the car more then viable.
I’m going to say there’s some designation to the vehicle but @petergrub would know better. I only have one car to play with, you have the other one I wanted lol. I don’t imagine it’s a plug and play swap as the the charger and other electronics are also in the PEM and that’s where the vehicle calibration is. I don’t think it’s big deal for the SC to handshake them if they indeed do because they seem proficient at selling new ones.
I have little experience, just a moderate amount of knowledge. The 12v DC converter is expensive and hard to come by. The PEM is close to rebuildable. The battery pack is unknown. If you look after it, it looks after you. The rear suspension (non adjustable) is just inadequate and will blow seals easily. A lot of the time location will be a key factor, my roadster tech is confident if I need a battery he can get one, but I think they along with PEM are unobtainable soon. But if I had to say one part it would be the transmission. They are only made for the roadster, and I think you will be looking at third parts stores for them.
But the potential for them the break seems unlikely. The parts that ‘break’ are silly things, tension straps for convertible roofs, the UMC, the PEM fan. There’s a pretty good warning system on the car that lets you know if your heading that way. If the PEM over heat warning comes on and you don’t fix it, you are going to be renewing the insulation under the IBGT’s. If it’s throwing codes, time to research and if you get to the lower end of your battery and can’t charge, pull the plug and get it somewhere that can. Discharging the battery is usually user error, normally preventable and rarely repairable. The co-part cars are all left to die, if they pulled the plug most of them would be repairable.
But the potential for them the break seems unlikely. The parts that ‘break’ are silly things, tension straps for convertible roofs, the UMC, the PEM fan. There’s a pretty good warning system on the car that lets you know if your heading that way. If the PEM over heat warning comes on and you don’t fix it, you are going to be renewing the insulation under the IBGT’s. If it’s throwing codes, time to research and if you get to the lower end of your battery and can’t charge, pull the plug and get it somewhere that can. Discharging the battery is usually user error, normally preventable and rarely repairable. The co-part cars are all left to die, if they pulled the plug most of them would be repairable.
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There are few cars that can put a smile on your face like a roadster, find a good one with a great battery. Almost all of them have had the PEM replaced, but this does not fix the underlying problem (which is completely fixable). They can be very reliable and a ton of fun. All cars come with headaches of some kind, but roadsters are easier to deal with than a lot of cars I have owned. The motor and transmission almost never die, upgrade the PEM with better insulation, check the PEM fan shroud for cracks (or missing pieces), these are the big ones, and be sure to keep the car plugged in.
GreenLine
Member
Thank you for that information @X.I.r.8 and @RebelRoadster. Looking forward to enjoying riding my Roadster.
By the way, I have two error codes on the display. One is "GPS: No data fault" and the other one is "DMC FW: Line UnderVoltage fault". I am in the process of researching what cause these codes and a solution for it. So far, no luck. If you can help me with these codes, I will appreciate it very much.
By the way, I have two error codes on the display. One is "GPS: No data fault" and the other one is "DMC FW: Line UnderVoltage fault". I am in the process of researching what cause these codes and a solution for it. So far, no luck. If you can help me with these codes, I will appreciate it very much.
A Wiki of VDS error codes can be found here. As for your specific codes...
| ID | Color | Text under normal circumstances | Debug text (not normally displayed) | Notes / Suggestions |
| 53 | Orange | Debug-Only Msg | GPS: No data fault | 1) Check if the APS is inhibited in the service diagnostic menu under the Controls submenu (petergrub) 2) Check if the GPS antenna is plugged in at the VMS in the dash above the passenger footwell (petergrub) |
| 937 | Charge Problem Extension Cord Detected | DMC FW: Line UnderVoltage fault |
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I would suspect it’s related to the dead ESS. There needs to be a minimum voltage in the pack for the bms to allow the battery to start charging. Either that or you are plugging in a broken cord. No idea what you are using to get that message. I got it once trying to pull more than 10A from a 120v socket with unknown type breaker, and again at my home with gfci plug and gfci breaker.
The other is probably again because of the dead ESS and the car thinks the main battery is ‘switched off’. All the codes are powered from the 12v battery so unless you can get the pack charged they may be redundant codes, also you have no idea what the previous people did before you. You could look at the sub menu just in case they turned off the pack to try and save it. You might get lucky.
It’s easier to search using the ID error codes rather than the text.
The other is probably again because of the dead ESS and the car thinks the main battery is ‘switched off’. All the codes are powered from the 12v battery so unless you can get the pack charged they may be redundant codes, also you have no idea what the previous people did before you. You could look at the sub menu just in case they turned off the pack to try and save it. You might get lucky.
It’s easier to search using the ID error codes rather than the text.
A small victory for today, but I managed to get the VMS booted up today with a functioning touch screen on #994 (thanks to other posts on this forum!). I was very excited to see there are only 14 errors to work through (it's kinda nice to have a list!). I'm sure a few errors will go away once the PEM is communicating (currently out of the car). Time to pull the batteries and see where we land (I think I know the answer, it's been too long!).
I would grab some of nicks bmb boards to measure. Hota do a dual balance charger that you could use 9 channels to see what charges, it’s nice as you can set the voltage to each cell and read what’s going on. Being able to see a start point, an end point and capacity each brick took to get there is a great function. It also charges your phone while you wait and the pro version is AC and DC powered.
https://www.amazon.ca/HOTA-Balance-...ocphy=9061009&hvtargid=pla-797906302487&psc=1
The only think I’m yet to verify if it will fully charge from balance leads only. I read that it does but I’m waiting for one to arrive to confirm
https://www.amazon.ca/HOTA-Balance-...ocphy=9061009&hvtargid=pla-797906302487&psc=1
The only think I’m yet to verify if it will fully charge from balance leads only. I read that it does but I’m waiting for one to arrive to confirm
If Nick doesn’t have any I have a set. Which if your doing one sheet at a time then you probably need just one.
The ends are available from digikey/Mauser.
The ends are available from digikey/Mauser.
spaceballs
Member
Wished this board has fuses on each trace, as there was one sheet that i know of that had shorted sense wires and caused all the fuses on it to pop (on my board). Glad I had them present else could have been more of a serious issue.
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