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RIP Vin #783

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Here's what they told me -

Unfortunately we will not be able to service this vehicle since we are unable to remove and reinstall the battery due to the frame damage. The battery may not fit back in as the alignment will be off.

- - - Updated - - -

Make (weld) a jig across the full length of the chassis, fix it to the chassis at structural points, replace battery.

The chassis should be repairable if it is still in-line, bit it will be quite some work.

I flipped over three times in my Opel Speedster (Lotus chassis), repaired the chassis and suspension and converted to an EV. Works fine for 2 years already.
 
is that the burlingame facility? looks like my car in the background of the video (dropped it off on october 22nd for a few days of service.)

After reaching a bit over the 50,000 mile mark and returning home from National Plug In Day, my underside was punctured by some object on 101. My battery started decreasing range and I had an annual service scheduled for late October but I was able to schedule it a little earlier due to the rapid range loss. While I was waiting for the service, I tried rebalancing the battery but looks like the puncture fried something (no fires though!) and nothing worked. A video taken by Tesla of my underside is here: [video]https://plus.google.com/117988036691160667450/posts/avPsLrZLYVe[/video]
 
Take it to any good body shop, put on lift, remove all ancillary stuff, look at tub shape, confirm there is still plenty of clearance to drop batt (as we have assumed since impact was linear straight-line). Then, checking with Tesla, disconnect batt and get it out of there. The job has to be done eventually, why not do it now?
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Looks like one brick in the middle sheet was damaged (read 0V) and died but all the other ones are good (4V).
783_battery.jpg


Congrats to Jerry for getting the battery out and identifying the bad brick!
 
Looks like one brick in the middle sheet was damaged (read 0V) and died but all the other ones are good (4V). View attachment 37697

Congrats to Jerry for getting the battery out and identifying the bad brick!

Nice going! Thanks for the update. Will Tesla sell just 1 brick? I presume the brick can be removed independently from the sheet? If not possibly start looking for an outside source to retrofit the bricks.
 
Jerry has my car now and he's been working with Marco - the battery was removed by disconnecting it from the car and raising the car to clear the battery.
He measured each sheets' voltage and found the bad sheet, the bad sheet showed 32V instead of 36V. Each sheet has 9 bricks of 4V each so that means the
bad sheet has one bad brick. We'll see how that one bad brick gets fixed -
 
Jerry has my car now and he's been working with Marco - the battery was removed by disconnecting it from the car and raising the car to clear the battery.
He measured each sheets' voltage and found the bad sheet, the bad sheet showed 32V instead of 36V. Each sheet has 9 bricks of 4V each so that means the
bad sheet has one bad brick. We'll see how that one bad brick gets fixed -

FYI, Tesla does not sell individual bricks but rather the whole sheet. So that's one route. The other route is like I mentioned before to send your sheet out to a place that specializes in batteries and EVs.
 
Jerry has my car now and he's been working with Marco - the battery was removed by disconnecting it from the car and raising the car to clear the battery. He measured each sheets' voltage and found the bad sheet, the bad sheet showed 32V instead of 36V. Each sheet has 9 bricks of 4V each so that means the bad sheet has one bad brick. We'll see how that one bad brick gets fixed -

Be prepared for the possibility that as soon as you drain the coolant from the bad brick that it will immediately ignite. Maybe Jerry's already done that and knows what he's doing.