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Tomsax seems to want to do "everything right" in terms of implementing all the J safety / reliability features.
From what I have seen, even some mainstream vehicles & EVSEs aren't necessarily doing thing to "full spec" in terms of disconnecting on button press...
Maybe I am wrong, but it seems to me when I press the unlatch button on Coulomb Chargepoints attached to my Leaf it still shows current flow on the EL display until I actually start to pull the plug out of the socket. Perhaps some implementations depend on the hope that the pilot pins disconnect before power rather than following the button/latch?
Similar behavior is observed when using the Nissan portable EVSE (modified to allow 240V charging). Maybe my early production Leaf has old firmware that doesn't stop charging on the "delatch" signal?
From what I have seen, even some mainstream vehicles & EVSEs aren't necessarily doing thing to "full spec" in terms of disconnecting on button press...
Maybe I am wrong, but it seems to me when I press the unlatch button on Coulomb Chargepoints attached to my Leaf it still shows current flow on the EL display until I actually start to pull the plug out of the socket. Perhaps some implementations depend on the hope that the pilot pins disconnect before power rather than following the button/latch?
Similar behavior is observed when using the Nissan portable EVSE (modified to allow 240V charging). Maybe my early production Leaf has old firmware that doesn't stop charging on the "delatch" signal?
strider
Active Member
Thanks for the update Tom. Is the cable going to support both generations of connectors (on the Tesla side) or will you have to do 2 different versions?
We are working on two different cables. The 1.5 Roadsters need a short cable with an expensive twist-lock connector on the Tesla side. The 2.x Roadsters need a much longer cable that just ends in terminal lugs.
W.Petefish
Active Member
I think if the Model S has the J1772 connector I will convert the roadster. But I would only do that with the help of a Tesla Ranger.
W.Petefish
Active Member
You would be surprised. The rangers were actually keen on the idea and were willing to give pointers. They said that you need to immediately do a 90 degree turn with the wire assembly in order to avoid some clearance issues as well as fabricate an aluminum plate to convert the boss from the Tesla Connector to the J1772. A simple task, but a time consuming one.
(FYI you get more information out of the rangers if they had a long drive and you buy their lunch for them.:biggrin
(FYI you get more information out of the rangers if they had a long drive and you buy their lunch for them.:biggrin
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Tell me about it. Nine months and counting. I hope to get the first real cable built this month.
W.Petefish
Active Member
I mean it is a simple task once I have measurements to fabricate an adaptor plate. Once my In-Wall EVSE is complete, still waiting on the GFCI, I'll start to work on an adaptor plate.
The first plate will be made out of polycarbonate (1/4" lexan) for a prototype. (Emphasis on Prototype)
The first plate will be made out of polycarbonate (1/4" lexan) for a prototype. (Emphasis on Prototype)
Although the LEAF still indicates that it is charging, it stops drawing current when the J1772 latch is opened. This has been confirmed by a friend who has his EVSE powered through a utility meter: when the latch switch is pressed, the wheel on the meter stops spinning even though the lights on the LEAF continue to blink.
W.Petefish
Active Member
Oh boy, am I interested. What about a stl or dxf file? There are several metal fab shops around here I could run it by and see if they can mill it out. (or even RCAM at SMU)
FYI ModularEVPower beat ya'll to the proximity wire phase, I think.
FYI ModularEVPower beat ya'll to the proximity wire phase, I think.
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I don't think it can be milled because of the hex nut insets. We've put a lot of work into the measurements and the design, so I'm not super excited about just giving the CAD file away at this stage of the game.
What do you hope to accomplish by making an instance of our bracket?
I didn't know it was a race, but we had ours breadboarded in April. Also, their board requires an external power supply from the vehicle, ours does not as we do not want to pull power from the Roadster. We want a solution that has little impact on the car as possible. That is the tricky bit for this particular application.
W.Petefish
Active Member
There is a lot you can do with 5 axis milling. I was hoping to do a trial fit with the bracket and my 2.5.
The Proximity latch is a good investment either way. Your board has multiple advantages over ModularEVPower's including being self-powered. I was just pointing out a time difference.
The Proximity latch is a good investment either way. Your board has multiple advantages over ModularEVPower's including being self-powered. I was just pointing out a time difference.
You said you'd only do the conversion with the help of a Tesla Ranger. If you're willing to tear your car apart enough to test the bracket, that's the same as just doing the conversion give or take a couple of screws connecting the wires to the PEM.
Do you have the J inlet? Without that, you won't really be able to test the bracket. Unless you want to roll your own, I'd recommend waiting until we have a 2.x solution as it mostly likely will be a custom-built inlet cable assembly, not something you just slap onto the inlet you can buy directly.
We'll do 2.x testing with our bracket locally so we can make any required adjustments to the design. I don't expect any issue there as I don't think those parts changed.
Send me a private message with your email if you want to be an early adopter of our solution.
W.Petefish
Active Member
We have some progress on the J1772 upgrade cable for 2008 (v1.5) Roadsters. Here are a couple of photos of the first prototype cable.
There's one niggling issue left to solve with the pin termination on the PEM side of the cable. Also, the production units will use orange shrink tubing to seal up the proximity board. In the sample above, the proximity board is wrapped in black silicone tape which is strong enough to work as a temporary fix for a leaking pipe, but I think the shrink tubing will provide a better seal.
There's one niggling issue left to solve with the pin termination on the PEM side of the cable. Also, the production units will use orange shrink tubing to seal up the proximity board. In the sample above, the proximity board is wrapped in black silicone tape which is strong enough to work as a temporary fix for a leaking pipe, but I think the shrink tubing will provide a better seal.
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Mycroft
Life happens
That's what's on that cable. The orange shrink tube will be better: better seal and the correct color for a high voltage line.
strider
Active Member
Tom,
Glad to hear you all are pressing forward with this project. Although Model S will continue with a proprietary connector, I'm still interested in doing this for my Roadster. Keep us posted!
Glad to hear you all are pressing forward with this project. Although Model S will continue with a proprietary connector, I'm still interested in doing this for my Roadster. Keep us posted!
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