youlikeadajuice
P 9130
Mine also were very rusted and I'm also in Jersey! Service center replaced mine under warranty...3 year old 60, no power lift gate.
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JRP3
Hyperactive Member
If you've had rust issues and had them replaced I'd keep them coated with something. Maybe battery terminal spray, or lithium grease, silicone, or even an occasional blast of WD40 or something similar.
Lon12
Member
I'm glad you posted those pictures. I took a look at mine and they seem to be fine. Gone through two winters now.
So I just cleaned them up and coated them with lithium grease. Hope that helps.
So I just cleaned them up and coated them with lithium grease. Hope that helps.
navinc
Member
Similar issue with 2012 Signature 85 that's lived in Toronto for four years but recently moved to the west coast.
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I don't have any concern with the surface rust on the clip itself holding the strut on the ball joint, either. But, that rusted surface on the mount, at the white painted body of the vehicle; could cause an increased degradation of the corrosion protection. Nothing of concern yet; but years down the road could show some minor breakdown.
trayloader
Member
It is a problem.
It is severe see my image attached.
And if your car is out of warranty as mine is, they wil not take care of it, instead sell you a completely new strut kit.
It is so bad that we will see lift gates break.
And people hurt.
Because of a 3$ piece which can be replaced in 5min.
That's one of the now classic shortcomings I just don't understand.
After having to wait a full FOUR months due to TESLAs inability or should I say interest, I finally found the same screws from Chrysler.
The problem is that tesla uses a special ball head with a longer basis than 90% of the suppliers to achieve a distance of the big motorized arm to the tailgate. A shorter screw makes this rub against the metal.
I'm almost shure TESLA used different batches or suppliers of screws here.
Proper anodized coated ones and cheap ones.
Delivery first ;(
And to clarify: it's not only the clamp.
It's both.
Someone must get fired.
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JakeP
S P4996 ==> P02547
Trayloader, mine look like yours, 2012 S85 from Western PA. Tesla wouldn't replace them when I was under warranty, and now they will sell me the ball joints for $1 each, but I need to buy the full strut to get the clips! Do you mind sharing a link or part number, if you found standalone clips? I'd rather do a $25 DIY than a $250 plus labor SC visit.
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trayloader
Member
Seems our preferred Auto is moving at least a bit.
But it will still backflash on them due to the fact that one day a liftgate will break and fall onto someone or worse (arm...)
Then we will see a worldwide recall and the stock tankin, costing them a magnitude of a proactive reaction.
I don´t get it. *end rant*
Anyway-
At least they now sell the ball joint (which they flat out refused back then in my case).
Buy four of them, just in case
And buy those clips here, it seems to be a standard VW part: Hood Hatch Strut Shock Lift Clips VW Jetta Golf MK4 MK5 MK6 Beetle Audi Passat | eBay
If they should run out of ball joints, its a standard SAAB part.
Alternatively, take Your old parts, put them in Coca Cola (no kidding) or de-ruster for one night, plus remove the loose crust with a metal brush, dry it, and after istallation, cover the whole piece with white fat applied with a soft brush to seal it from air.
That´s what I did with mine and they fully stopped corroding and withstood one winter already.
But it will still backflash on them due to the fact that one day a liftgate will break and fall onto someone or worse (arm...)
Then we will see a worldwide recall and the stock tankin, costing them a magnitude of a proactive reaction.
I don´t get it. *end rant*
Anyway-
At least they now sell the ball joint (which they flat out refused back then in my case).
Buy four of them, just in case
And buy those clips here, it seems to be a standard VW part: Hood Hatch Strut Shock Lift Clips VW Jetta Golf MK4 MK5 MK6 Beetle Audi Passat | eBay
If they should run out of ball joints, its a standard SAAB part.
Alternatively, take Your old parts, put them in Coca Cola (no kidding) or de-ruster for one night, plus remove the loose crust with a metal brush, dry it, and after istallation, cover the whole piece with white fat applied with a soft brush to seal it from air.
That´s what I did with mine and they fully stopped corroding and withstood one winter already.
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
There is a product that converts rust to a paintable surface. It contains phosphoric acid. I had a trailer hitch on a van that had surface rust. I used the rust converter and then some black spray paint. 5 years later there was no further rust even though constantly exposed to weather. If and when mine starts to show rust I'll use the rust converter and a bit of paint.
trayloader
Member
It’s a poisoned gift from the Daimler/Chrysler days.
search for MOPAR 6507844AA-M
please report back.
search for MOPAR 6507844AA-M
please report back.
trayloader
Member
I'm shocked, all four were easy to remove. And now they are installed... but... one spring retainer / c-clip turned to dust (zip tied for now). Any more part tricks in the hat? Looking at used rear trunk struts now, would hate to buy one if c-clips are available. Or do you know of a good replacement for the left side strut?
BTW, tesla repair manual did not have a torque spec for the ball stud (that I could find).
trayloader
Member
That’s sad to hear. Fixed one problem which created another.
search for something like this, I’m sure this is researchable.
search for something like this, I’m sure this is researchable.
trayloader
Member
What you should definitely do in the
Meantime: lube the inside liftgate ball “pan” and shim the MOPAR piece with some rubber or plastic shim to the liftgate.
I think what we witness is a two fold problem concerning Tesla. Metal corrosion by combining steel screw and Aluminium carosse PLUS Tesla sourcing parts on the free market. We found galvanized and ungalvanized versions of this screw
So sealing the whole new units (once you found the holding clamp) would be benefiting.
As I said a poisoned gift from the DaimlerChrysler days. Probably those were cheaper at a time when Tesla was in dire need of every penny.
keep us updated pls
Meantime: lube the inside liftgate ball “pan” and shim the MOPAR piece with some rubber or plastic shim to the liftgate.
I think what we witness is a two fold problem concerning Tesla. Metal corrosion by combining steel screw and Aluminium carosse PLUS Tesla sourcing parts on the free market. We found galvanized and ungalvanized versions of this screw
So sealing the whole new units (once you found the holding clamp) would be benefiting.
As I said a poisoned gift from the DaimlerChrysler days. Probably those were cheaper at a time when Tesla was in dire need of every penny.
keep us updated pls
Did this repair today. One of my clips was totally gone in the middle and the other 3 broke when I removed them. Had to dig the ends of the clips out of the struts with a pick.
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