S/X Palladium Motorized Screen Tilt Kit

[Bull]

Hmm interesting. Could be that configs that are officially changeable by either us or service are backed up to the cloud. The screen tilt option is not officially editable even by the service centers

Or it’s safety relevant items that are transferred like you mentioned.

You also changed the trim from wood to carbon right? Did that survive?

You could be right. I have a very good relationship with my SC and I will be there next week for another appointment. I'll ask them then if they had a hand in it.

I had problems with my wood trim from the start. They were only able to replace some parts. The parts that were gloss plastic were no longer available. I gave up and switched. I'm down to 2 pieces left. The rear armrest and the drivers side C pillar trim. The change from CREAM to CARBON_CREAM did survive.

BTW, I saw a report that the SC can now make config changes. The poster on X included a shot of part of his invoice. My SC hasn't heard that. Have you seen it yet?

 

[Bull]

I completed the matrix and tilt screen retrofit earlier this week and am working a write-up for others with everything I learned along the way. Need to give a big shout-out to @interbear99, @leecox, @ShockYT, and @terranx for their support and guidance in this project. This is a smaller community of DIYers compared to other brands which makes the information of our projects so much more valuable. Thank you all for your patience and insight to get this done.

Project thoughts:
As a long-time DIYer, I wanted to learn as much as I could and do all the work. The parts needed to complete this were not too hard to get but the recent 2x in price for a left body control module does make it harder to achieve. I ended up sourcing a used on via Ebay. The media converter is also another non-standard challenge as it requires a few parts and the best-priced items were from China. This led me to contact Electrified Garage in FL to see what they would be able to contribute. Ultimately, they were much less familiar with this process than anyone following this forum.

Matrix:
Based on other posts from leecox, I was able to identify the required parts to build my own adapter harness. I have previous electrical experience and love building stuff so it was not that hard but there are some nuances about this particular harness that Lee was really helpful in shedding light on such as ensuring the wires pulled out from the main 14-pin harness are fed in from the rear when moving them around as the insulation will not allow you to seat them in otherwise.

Interbear99, gave great advice on the best approach to removing the headlights! BLUF: remove only the 6 bolts along the top of the bumper, the T-25 torx at the inner edge of the bumper from the wheel well, and the frunk basket for easy access to everything. Lights hooked up perfectly and I only had a little scare when one headlamp did not power on. The issue was that 14-pin connector had a slide lock from the inside that needed to be pushed the other way to fully seat.

Programming was a breeze going through service shell and nothing else was required. Honestly, a super easy process.
1. "Service Shell"
2. enter "gw-diag SET_CONFIG_DATA 00 28 2"
3. enter "reboot-gateway"
4. From Service Mode "reinstall firmware" and your done!

Tilt-screen:
Motor installation was super easy and I finished this in less than 30 min.

Body controller was a PITA, mostly because the connectors all have a lock tab that can be difficult to find or push. Additionally, once removed, the new one did not want allow for the securing nut to be attached (which is needed as it is a grounding nut). The lesson here is to ensure you are pushing back and down FIRMLY on the top portion of the controller when replacing it for it to properly seat on top and lower enough for the nut to attach.

Programming here is a little more involved. I did try it on my original controller to see what would happen. The tilt button was present but I could not run the post-install commands to calibrate the motors.

When power is reconnected it will take about 5 min for the screen to come on. I'm not gonna lie, it scared the hell outta me, lol.
1. "Service Shell"
2. enter "gw-diag SET_CONFIG_DATA 00 132 2"
3. enter "reboot-gateway"
4. From Service Mode "reinstall firmware"
5. VCleft post replacement procedure *lower front windows to allow access and do not sit in the driver seat while running the cmd*
-This is a very important procedure to run as it will calibrate the windows, steering wheel, mirrors, and pair the immobilizer to your car, otherwise you ain't going anywhere. It did not complete entirely for me, so I needed to run the "immobilizer..." command to finish.
6. Search for mech and run "Display Mechanism Calibration" (turns on motors) See pic 1
7. Run "Mech Function Test" (Motors will run and move screen)

I had a few errors come up after that worried me (see pic 2) but they were only shown on the service side, not customer-facing. I did another software reinstall and a dual button reboot but it was still there. The next morning I watched some YouTube in the car, did a scroll wheel reboot and they went away!

Final Thoughts:
I learned a lot and it tool me 8 hours after work to complete this but knowing what I know now, I feel I could complete both retrofits in under 2 hours max. The controller piece was the biggest time sucker. If you can source the parts you need for a good price, I totally think it's worth it. BTW, either of the two listed LH body controllers will work (03-B and 00-C)! If you can coordinate to share toolbox access with someone, this would also REALLY help save some money.

Best of luck to those who choose to follow through on this project.

Great write up. I just went through this 2 days ago. I bought the VCLEFT 03-B controller new because if you get a defective one there will be all sorts of problems.

The VCLEFT controller was indeed a PITA (and rib cage). My right side still hurts. I had to do it a couple times because when I reconnected everything there was an open port (BODY7). No one had mentioned that and so I assumed I missed a connector somewhere. After looking carefully multiple times I decided the previous one must have been empty also. Did you have a connector for BODY7 or was it empty for you as well?

Good to know 00-C works also. I also had a ton of really scary errors but it settled down and works fine now.

 

[terranx]

You could be right. I have a very good relationship with my SC and I will be there next week for another appointment. I'll ask them then if they had a hand in it.

I had problems with my wood trim from the start. They were only able to replace some parts. The parts that were gloss plastic were no longer available. I gave up and switched. I'm down to 2 pieces left. The rear armrest and the drivers side C pillar trim. The change from CREAM to CARBON_CREAM did survive.

BTW, I saw a report that the SC can now make config changes. The poster on X included a shot of part of his invoice. My SC hasn't heard that. Have you seen it yet?

SC has always been able to make config changes. They just generally didn’t do it unless a documented Tesla procedure instructed them to. They’re also limited in the changes they can make. They should be capable of doing the service shell method as well, but that’s not documented either.

In the case of the headlight config changes, Tesla stopped making the non global headlight for the 3/Y, so now they *have* to do the config changes for headlight replacements on those cars.

Since your interior trim change survived, it sounds like it’s the officially changeable configs that survive.

 

[leecox]

Great write up. I just went through this 2 days ago. I bought the VCLEFT 03-B controller new because if you get a defective one there will be all sorts of problems.

The VCLEFT controller was indeed a PITA (and rib cage). My right side still hurts. I had to do it a couple times because when I reconnected everything there was an open port (BODY7). No one had mentioned that and so I assumed I missed a connector somewhere. After looking carefully multiple times I decided the previous one must have been empty also. Did you have a connector for BODY7 or was it empty for you as well?

Good to know 00-C works also. I also had a ton of really scary errors but it settled down and works fine now.

The VC modules are the same for the Model S and X. Body7 is the power connector for the Falcon Wing Door power if memory serves. It’s always blank on our cars.

I usually take pictures of the part and connections prior to removing it to make sure it goes back together right. I’ve been burned a bunch by not doing that.

 

[Bull]

The VC modules are the same for the Model S and X. Body7 is the power connector for the Falcon Wing Door power if memory serves. It’s always blank on our cars.

I usually take pictures of the part and connections prior to removing it to make sure it goes back together right. I’ve been burned a bunch by not doing that.

I just checked the Model X procedure and it does not mention it either. I also take pics for exactly the same reasons. I could not this time due to the tight quarters so I identified each bundle in the procedure first. BODY 7 was hidden so I didn't notice it until double checking all connections. I'm really glad you recall it being empty.

Definitely a lot of parts are interchangeable between S and X. Since I have 2 brand new Model X center consoles here, I'm switching to an X center console as soon as I have a couple hours free. Looks like everything connects and fits the same. I'll gain the cup holders for the rear.

 

[terranx]

Good to know 00-C works also. I also had a ton of really scary errors but it settled down and works fine now.

My 2023 car came with the 00-C module from the factory for what it’s worth. Not sure what’s supposed to be different between the two since Tesla apparently stocks both

 

[Bull]

My 2023 car came with the 00-C module from the factory for what it’s worth. Not sure what’s supposed to be different between the two since Tesla apparently stocks both

To add to that, I see both parts in the EPC. Maybe USS vs non-USS cars?

ASY. LEFT CONTROLLER GEN 4 1585694-03-B
Left Controller Gen 4 1585694-00-C

 

[terranx]

USS plugs into VCRIGHT, so I don't think it's that. Maybe HW3 vs HW4. Though since the new one seems to be backwards compatible, I don't know why they wouldn't bother d/cing the old one.

Only other thought I have is one of the part numbers supporting RGB lights. The little bit of documentation Tesla has about the RGB lights in the Model S/X suggested the left door and center console would have been driven off the vcleft module.

 

[erik.gnzo]

Hmm interesting. Could be that configs that are officially changeable by either us or service are backed up to the cloud. The screen tilt option is not officially editable even by the service centers

Or it’s safety relevant items that are transferred like you mentioned.

You also changed the trim from wood to carbon right? Did that survive?

I did not change the trim color though I did think about it lol.

My understanding is that all config changes are backed up to the cloud servers but I don't know that for sure.

 

[erik.gnzo]

To add to that, I see both parts in the EPC. Maybe USS vs non-USS cars?

ASY. LEFT CONTROLLER GEN 4 1585694-03-B
Left Controller Gen 4 1585694-00-C

In a write-up I am making for this, I do state that both parts are suitable for the retrofit. I do believe 00-C is paired with HW4 but don't know that to be fact.

 

[erik.gnzo]

Great write up. I just went through this 2 days ago. I bought the VCLEFT 03-B controller new because if you get a defective one there will be all sorts of problems.

The VCLEFT controller was indeed a PITA (and rib cage). My right side still hurts. I had to do it a couple times because when I reconnected everything there was an open port (BODY7). No one had mentioned that and so I assumed I missed a connector somewhere. After looking carefully multiple times I decided the previous one must have been empty also. Did you have a connector for BODY7 or was it empty for you as well?

Good to know 00-C works also. I also had a ton of really scary errors but it settled down and works fine now.

Thanks! Dude, I had to ask my wife if I had bruises on my ribs and butt cheek for the pain afterward lol.

I had the service manual with me but ended up just unplugging *sugar* left and right until I was done. I was so tired and ready to get it done at that point.

 

[terranx]

The VC modules are the same for the Model S and X. Body7 is the power connector for the Falcon Wing Door power if memory serves. It’s always blank on our cars.

I usually take pictures of the part and connections prior to removing it to make sure it goes back together right. I’ve been burned a bunch by not doing that.

Apparently body 7 is used for the trailer module?

Also curiously toolbox has a couple routines for testing the RGB interior lights that I could have sworn weren't there before. Initially I thought it's probably just the same routine for the model 3 and cybertruck, but it did reference the center console light test failing, and as far as I'm aware neither the highland or cybertruck have center console lighting (but the S/X were supposed to). Perhaps they are coming

I'm not convinced it'll be retrofittable easily eve if they come though. The 'rgbinteriorlightingenabled' configuration (171) is secured. The S/X have a tendency to not use the various "blahblahEnabled" configs so maybe there's a chance, but we'll see. I did try setting the interior trim to the RGB trim configuration, but that's not recognized as valid on the S. But it might just be a software version thing.

My toolbox expiration does seem like it'll expire before I get the spring update though. So I won't be able to do much poking around for much longer.

 

[MFrunkerOG]

Got my left controller and tilt assembly ordered at the service center today. Looking forward to getting the tilt done next week . Parts estimate is $90 for the assembly, $475 for the controller. Already have the technica media convertor.

 

[Bull]

Got my left controller and tilt assembly ordered at the service center today. Looking forward to getting the tilt done next week . Parts estimate is $90 for the assembly, $475 for the controller. Already have the technica media convertor.

I’m loving the tilt screen. Now that I’m used to it tilted toward me, flat against the dash just seems wrong.

 

[Proppilot]

I’m loving the tilt screen. Now that I’m used to it tilted toward me, flat against the dash just seems wrong.

really interesting to see once installed, how many times (once tilted all the way to the driver) that the function is used to go back to flat and/or over to the right. I agree, once you go LEFT you never go back . I purchased the screen mount with motors for $ 95 bucks and installed a couple of momentary rocker switches on the service panel above the phone charger tray to manually toggle my screen to any position I want. Doing it OEM with the new controller is by far the finest form of the upgrade however for others, you can just run the right side of the screen out with a drill (if you don't have the motors) as well if you are not interested in updating body controllers and doing programming. Three ways is a) manually run it out and leave it b) add a couple of toggles if you have motors and c) upgrade body controller and program. Regardless of the route, once you tilt, you will likely never run it flat/flush again !

 

[erik.gnzo]

Got my left controller and tilt assembly ordered at the service center today. Looking forward to getting the tilt done next week . Parts estimate is $90 for the assembly, $475 for the controller. Already have the technica media convertor.

Ebay is definitely the place to find a controller. I got mine for less than $300.

 

[MFrunkerOG]

Ebay is definitely the place to find a controller. I got mine for less than $300.

True, but I have a history of being an abused buyer on eBay I don’t want one of the pins to be broken or unsoldered or the like!

I’d greatly appreciate your write up when you get a chance

 

[erik.gnzo]

True, but I have a history of being an abused buyer on eBay I don’t want one of the pins to be broken or unsoldered or the like!

I’d greatly appreciate your write up when you get a chance

PDF for retrofit guide. Not 100% inclusive as 90% of it is already the service manual. Mainly highlighting important notes, code, and a few pics.
Enjoy!

 

[MFrunkerOG]

PDF for retrofit guide. Not 100% inclusive as 90% of it is already the service manual. Mainly highlighting important notes, code, and a few pics.
Enjoy!

Excellent thanks!

 

[Bull]

Hmm interesting. Could be that configs that are officially changeable by either us or service are backed up to the cloud. The screen tilt option is not officially editable even by the service centers

Or it’s safety relevant items that are transferred like you mentioned.

You also changed the trim from wood to carbon right? Did that survive?

Ok. I got the scoop today from the tech who replaced my computer. He did not do any config changes. The matrix lights and the interior trim change survived because they were automatically saved to the mothership and downloaded with the rest of the car config after the steam computer upgrade. The screen tilt change did not and he agrees that was probably due to it not being officially editable.