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S/X Palladium Motorized Screen Tilt Kit

Which kit would you prefer? See post for details.

  • Mechanical

    Votes: 31 29.5%
  • Switches

    Votes: 3 2.9%
  • Simple Integration

    Votes: 6 5.7%
  • Full Integration

    Votes: 65 61.9%

  • Total voters
    105
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I thought the original was the plaid logo, then they cheaped out and removed it for the spelled out version, then reverted back to the logo?
First run got a plaid badge with a sort of 3D effect, then they got the plaid letters, and then finally a simpler plaid badge.

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Mine is a June 3, 2021 build. I’m sure some my parts came from prototypes.
I gave up on the PLAID badge and went with the graphic badge. It took a while though. Now people ask what it means…
A buddy of mine who’s a lifelong Lexus guy and lives vicariously through me (his words) said… and I quote “that spiderweb looks cheap! It’s only a plaid if it says so!” :)
 
I just ordered them. Will come in May 28th. Btw, firmware updates do not affect this modification correct? In other words you don’t need to use toolbox again after a firmware update do you?
Normally the tilt screen config changes are not affected by firmware updates. But if you have to re-download from the mothership you will probably lose it. Mine survived firmware update but was lost when I replaced my computer. I had to re do the change.
 
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So since I’m going to be doing the screen tilt and headlights together, I was going to put in the tilt mechanism and the new VCLeft controller a few days before the headlights.

If I just do the tilt hardware swap and just reinstall firmware from service mode until I get the headlights in, will that create any issues drivability wise? I’ll buy a day pass for toolbox when everything is here / installable so I don’t have to buy two days.

I know the tilt function won’t happen in software without toolbox
 
So since I’m going to be doing the screen tilt and headlights together, I was going to put in the tilt mechanism and the new VCLeft controller a few days before the headlights.

If I just do the tilt hardware swap and just reinstall firmware from service mode until I get the headlights in, will that create any issues drivability wise? I’ll buy a day pass for toolbox when everything is here / installable so I don’t have to buy two days.

I know the tilt function won’t happen in software without toolbox
What I did was to install the tilt mechanism first and then did the VCLEFT the next day just before the config change. That reduces the time you are off the LV battery. I was advised that if the LV battery dies (MOSFETs open) then it is a real pain to get it going again.

Similar with the headlights. You can connect them before you actually install them and then do the config change. If they work as expected then all you have to do is install them.
 
So since I’m going to be doing the screen tilt and headlights together, I was going to put in the tilt mechanism and the new VCLeft controller a few days before the headlights.

If I just do the tilt hardware swap and just reinstall firmware from service mode until I get the headlights in, will that create any issues drivability wise? I’ll buy a day pass for toolbox when everything is here / installable so I don’t have to buy two days.

I know the tilt function won’t happen in software without toolbox
Actually now that I think of it more, I believe there were some routines you need to run within toolbox to get the new vcleft to sync up with the other modules, including the vcsec module (ie immobilizer). So you’d probably need to do it while you have toolbox access.
 
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Actually now that I think of it more, I believe there were some routines you need to run within toolbox to get the new vcleft to sync up with the other modules, including the vcsec module (ie immobilizer). So you’d probably need to do it while you have toolbox access.
Hmm. I forgot about that. I’ll try it nevertheless and report back! :)

Maybe they’ll all sync up if I leave them alone for a day
 
What I did was to install the tilt mechanism first and then did the VCLEFT the next day just before the config change. That reduces the time you are off the LV battery. I was advised that if the LV battery dies (MOSFETs open) then it is a real pain to get it going again.

Similar with the headlights. You can connect them before you actually install them and then do the config change. If they work as expected then all you have to do is install them.
If the LV battery is disconnected during the swap of the parts, it shouldn’t drain right?
 
If the LV battery is disconnected during the swap of the parts, it shouldn’t drain right?
Correct. Apparently there is some time in the update routines before it connects and starts getting power from the LV charging system. If those don't go right it could be running on its own too long. At least that was how it was explained to me by someone who knows far more that I. He said you only get about 2 tries before the LV battery will get too low. I had a maintainer on standby but fortunately did not need it. I think that was what happened in the video posted by Reid Tomasko on YouTube..
 
When you say a maintainer, you mean a charger and if so what sort of one would work for this given the batteries at 16V or whatever they are?
Yes. I was told it has to have a voltage >14.5 volts. I found a 14.6V 20A Lithium Battery Charger that I was told would work if needed. There is a procedure in service.tesla.com for using a maintainer.
 
Actually now that I think of it more, I believe there were some routines you need to run within toolbox to get the new vcleft to sync up with the other modules, including the vcsec module (ie immobilizer). So you’d probably need to do it while you have toolbox access.
Be sure to read my write up (on previous page) which mentions the protocols needed to run after a vcleft swap.
 
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Well, I’ve held off doing anything until the lower shroud comes in. Don’t want to have to touch it again after :)
One tip, it's a little difficult to re-insert the 10mm bolts when reinstalling the display with the mechanism. In fact I had to press pretty firmly on the screen (near the edges of course) to get the holes to line up. It is harder to get the bolts in the holes with the lower shroud in place. The tip is that the round cutouts on the edge of the lower shroud away from the display are for access to the 10mm bolts. Use those cutouts to get oriented so your bolts are close to the holes.
 
I have a 21 MS LR and really want the tilt screen. (It was on the original website when I ordered and was a huge draw for me). I am in Los Angeles but willing to drive basically anywhere within reason for someone to do the install. Obviously will pay. I'd even drive to the Bay Area. I've given up on Tesla ever officially doing a retrofit, and I'm really not good with DYI. Please let me know!