Hi Gary, that's very interesting. If it could lead to an unpatchable way of rooting a MCU2 it would be huge!
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I'm working on a car that had front impact damage that pierced the radiator. Random technician thought it would be a good idea to put in hardening liquid goo to stop the leaks from happening. It did stop the leaks but disabled the front motor. (P85D) So after I checked the coolant tubes going into the front drive unit's (DIS) top side I noticed the goo. I tried to flush it out cycling a dissolving chemical, it did clear those tubes and after purging I noticed the coolant being distributed everywhere this time. However the issue was still there. It starts out without errors and the first instance traction logic wants to use the front motor it goes into limp mode.
Thinking it could be an internal sensor I decided to lower the front drive unit and disassemble it. As you can see in the pictures, temp sensor on the coolant lines were actually covered with it. So I cleaned that too and put the motor back together. However this time the motor goes into limp mode as soon as drive rails are turned on. Reason is a phase current offset on phase B. Yet I don't know what that means. Here are the errors. PMS (whichever ECU that is) gives out the self test error also on PMS_state. Anyone with experience know what these are about? A couple people said it could be about the inverter itself but what could be broken when just opening it up and putting it back together? If anything that should be fixable too. So I'm open to suggestions and need help. Thank you in advance.
Thinking it could be an internal sensor I decided to lower the front drive unit and disassemble it. As you can see in the pictures, temp sensor on the coolant lines were actually covered with it. So I cleaned that too and put the motor back together. However this time the motor goes into limp mode as soon as drive rails are turned on. Reason is a phase current offset on phase B. Yet I don't know what that means. Here are the errors. PMS (whichever ECU that is) gives out the self test error also on PMS_state. Anyone with experience know what these are about? A couple people said it could be about the inverter itself but what could be broken when just opening it up and putting it back together? If anything that should be fixable too. So I'm open to suggestions and need help. Thank you in advance.
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bkp_duke
Well-Known Member
Coolant circulates from the radiator into the motor(s) and the battery pack.
I would not touch that car with a 10-ft pole now and consider the pack damaged.
bkp_duke
Well-Known Member
Is it not possible it didn't get behind the motor? Maybe the car was in parallel mode when the accident happened and it saved it damaging only the front motor? I want to argue this because I didn't find any goo on the rapid connector of the battery. Nor there are any coolant flow errors about the battery. So I need ideas to check if it indeed reach behind and it is not worth even trying to fix. If so I need ideas to check what I might have done to make the inverter say 'B Current Offset' Simply because that inverter was fine before removing.
Any time you deviate from the strict liquids guidelines you are making a mistake. This was a stupid shortcut and the guy who advised this either knows dangerously nothing, or must have been trying to sabotage you.
What happens is the pack power goes to the inverter, which converts it to three-phase AC voltage (A, B, C), which in turn drives the motor with phase and amplitude modulation to handle varying conditions. It sounds to me, but don't quote me on this because I am going out on a limb which no one else will dare, that goo got into a portion of the inverter and gave it the equivalent of a coronary. The coolant port for phase B might be blocked and it's overheating.
If it were me I would at least take the motor and inverter completely apart and thoroughly clean all coolant circuits. Renew all gaskets, hoses, pumps. This may save you, but the rest of the car is likely contaminated now too, and if not now maybe further on it will have manifold problems.
At the least, the radiator probably is part-filed with goo and will be less efficient, and would be the Typhoid Mary occasionally releasing blobs into the system to gum things up forever.
Look at the bright side: You will learn alot.
What happens is the pack power goes to the inverter, which converts it to three-phase AC voltage (A, B, C), which in turn drives the motor with phase and amplitude modulation to handle varying conditions. It sounds to me, but don't quote me on this because I am going out on a limb which no one else will dare, that goo got into a portion of the inverter and gave it the equivalent of a coronary. The coolant port for phase B might be blocked and it's overheating.
If it were me I would at least take the motor and inverter completely apart and thoroughly clean all coolant circuits. Renew all gaskets, hoses, pumps. This may save you, but the rest of the car is likely contaminated now too, and if not now maybe further on it will have manifold problems.
At the least, the radiator probably is part-filed with goo and will be less efficient, and would be the Typhoid Mary occasionally releasing blobs into the system to gum things up forever.
Look at the bright side: You will learn alot.
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thank you for the reply. However it didn’t have this problem before I opened up the inverter and motor. I opened it up to clean the goo inside since the front motor “did” work but would go into limp mode thinking there was low coolant flow. Indeed I found a temp sensor covered with goo and cleaned it up. After putting the motor back together phase b started acting up. So it must be something I ****ed up while opening it up? I don’t think I could mess it up since it went all healthy and nothing was broken. So I’ll have to reopen to maybe discover I’ll circle back to the same error which is limp mode after being used for a second or two.
I need help to use somebody’s compatible toolbox for a specific panel.
Here’s what happened. Vehicle was suffering from f027_BMS_Drive_iso_Repeated. I followed the bulletin to measure insulation resistances of hv parts. Drive unit measurements were out of spec so drive unit was removed. Indeed the seals were gone bad leaking coolant into rotor and stator environment. So another drive unit was put in, measuring 4.6Mohm (specs need 4+ and old one measured 2.5)
Now all insulation measurements are fine including DU to Hvjb harness. To make sure I replaced cp to hvjb cable and cancelled the fjb by disconnecting from hvjb to eliminate any possibilities thay my Fluke measurements were wrong. However, I still get the bms_drive_iso and bms fault that comes with it. (Contactors not closing)
Apparently, there’s a newer version of toolbox that has iso counter reset. If this is just a software issue that needs to be cleared, please reach me to have this done. Of course you will be compensated. I just need that panel. If not, please tell me what to do.
Here’s what happened. Vehicle was suffering from f027_BMS_Drive_iso_Repeated. I followed the bulletin to measure insulation resistances of hv parts. Drive unit measurements were out of spec so drive unit was removed. Indeed the seals were gone bad leaking coolant into rotor and stator environment. So another drive unit was put in, measuring 4.6Mohm (specs need 4+ and old one measured 2.5)
Now all insulation measurements are fine including DU to Hvjb harness. To make sure I replaced cp to hvjb cable and cancelled the fjb by disconnecting from hvjb to eliminate any possibilities thay my Fluke measurements were wrong. However, I still get the bms_drive_iso and bms fault that comes with it. (Contactors not closing)
Apparently, there’s a newer version of toolbox that has iso counter reset. If this is just a software issue that needs to be cleared, please reach me to have this done. Of course you will be compensated. I just need that panel. If not, please tell me what to do.
No need for toolbox Morph. Just loosen the bolt on the sensor and move it.
emir, you do have your problems, don't you.
The Old Air Force Half-Split Method will find the problem. In any complex system divide it into two halves, and test each one to see which side the problem is on. Then divide the bad side in half. Then that bad side in half.
But use an actual insulation tester; you can get one for about $35 on that horrendous products site which mistreats their workers. Test each branch in the rear HVJB and see where the problem is. If in the front HVJB, test those circuits one-by-one until you find the culprit. If I remember correctly the iso warning faults when a circuit is less than 1Mohm.
Last time I had an HV isolation problem, it was because I had contaminated the A/C system with mineral oil from old gauges, and a carbon trace had formed inside the compressor. Even one drop of mineral oil will poison the system. But I thoroughly flushed all lines and the compressor with refrigeration burnout solvent and that fixed it.
emir, you do have your problems, don't you.
The Old Air Force Half-Split Method will find the problem. In any complex system divide it into two halves, and test each one to see which side the problem is on. Then divide the bad side in half. Then that bad side in half.
But use an actual insulation tester; you can get one for about $35 on that horrendous products site which mistreats their workers. Test each branch in the rear HVJB and see where the problem is. If in the front HVJB, test those circuits one-by-one until you find the culprit. If I remember correctly the iso warning faults when a circuit is less than 1Mohm.
Last time I had an HV isolation problem, it was because I had contaminated the A/C system with mineral oil from old gauges, and a carbon trace had formed inside the compressor. Even one drop of mineral oil will poison the system. But I thoroughly flushed all lines and the compressor with refrigeration burnout solvent and that fixed it.
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Hi,
I am buying Tesla vehicle from a known person which sustained minor damage,right now car is in body shop for the estimate & Insurance company declared it total loss. I was told by the bodyshop they will disable the car before it leaves body shop & car needs to be dragged on to transport truck.Is this normal & Is there anyway we can at least put it in neutral for the car to roll on & off the truck?
Is there anyway we can put it in Neutral to let the wheels roll when the car is disabled?
I am buying Tesla vehicle from a known person which sustained minor damage,right now car is in body shop for the estimate & Insurance company declared it total loss. I was told by the bodyshop they will disable the car before it leaves body shop & car needs to be dragged on to transport truck.Is this normal & Is there anyway we can at least put it in neutral for the car to roll on & off the truck?
Is there anyway we can put it in Neutral to let the wheels roll when the car is disabled?
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ElectricIAC
Good-Natured Rascal
Hey now. Rich ain’t about that life anymore.Not unless it is some doctored YouTube video enticing more people to waste their money and energy
Yes, you enable "tow mode" in the menu. If the car doesn't have power, you can "jump start" it. What do they mean by "disabling" it? Are they deactivating the pyrofuse? It can be reset, if not fired.
