Thanks but they wre the F and W codes.
It's the ECU codes for each module I need.
Cheers anyway
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
It's the ECU codes for each module I need.
Cheers anyway
With toolbox 2 external user (the one you get) you can enter service mode plus, which I think can do service redeploys, but the keyfob panel is missing. It must be restricted to service centers.
A T-Can Pro can learn new keys, but it can’t do the redeploy unless you have root access (which is pointless, because you can redeploy with root and without the T-Can). So you might need both.
A T-Can Pro can learn new keys, but it can’t do the redeploy unless you have root access (which is pointless, because you can redeploy with root and without the T-Can). So you might need both.
Attachments
brainhouston
Active Member
@M0rpH3x Since you have T-can for rent, if i want a second key, can i get used one from eBay and learn it or do i need brand new one?
TBH I have no idea. I’ve never tried to reprogram a key (I got a working key with my salvaged Tesla). I don’t think it matters, but this is my opinion and not a fact.
EDIT: Undo mess done by my phone.
If the TAS module holds crash data, it won’t activate the compressor. One needs to clear the crash data to make it work again.
A T-Can Pro can do it. I think Toolbox2 can do it as well.
brainhouston
Active Member
So, ran into unexpected hurdle...
Car has Pin to Drive (9/16 MX 90D). Since i got it from auction i don't have a pin or way of getting it (home address is in gps, long shot but i will try to contact)
Anyone know how to reset/bypass or what are my options?
Thank you.
Car has Pin to Drive (9/16 MX 90D). Since i got it from auction i don't have a pin or way of getting it (home address is in gps, long shot but i will try to contact)
Anyone know how to reset/bypass or what are my options?
Thank you.
Did you request an ownership transfer with Tesla? If you did, at some point you’ll be able to remove these things. But if course Tesla will immediately know you have a salvage car. I think they’ll find out anyway, but this is up to you.
The other alternative is to root your car. The T-Can can remove the pin to drive, but I think you need the car to be rooted.
brainhouston
Active Member
Thanks @M0rpH3x
Not yet as im still waiting for papers from the salvage dealer i got it from and not sure if tesla will even do it like that w/o title...
Tesla probably already knows cause i searched the VIN on one of the free sites and it has a salvage flag for being on auction
I'm already working with @LayZ for getting root. You guys are both great! Much appreciated.
Not yet as im still waiting for papers from the salvage dealer i got it from and not sure if tesla will even do it like that w/o title...
Tesla probably already knows cause i searched the VIN on one of the free sites and it has a salvage flag for being on auction
I'm already working with @LayZ for getting root. You guys are both great! Much appreciated.
did you have any issues getting the car to move?Thanks @M0rpH3x
Not yet as im still waiting for papers from the salvage dealer i got it from and not sure if tesla will even do it like that w/o title...
Tesla probably already knows cause i searched the VIN on one of the free sites and it has a salvage flag for being on auction
I'm already working with @LayZ for getting root. You guys are both great! Much appreciated.
i bought a pyrofuse on amazon and removed the yellow plastic on top and switched it with the original so it would fit.
Car still wont start. Bodyshop thinks i need to remove the Other pyrofuse under the battery (orange one) but Im suspecting swapping out the 12V would fix the issue.
The goonzsquad guys on youtube replaced the pyro next to the battery with an audi one and got it going, did you have any issues?
brainhouston
Active Member
I can't move the car yet cause i have a Pin to Drive enabled and i don't know the pin lol Also FL suspension is ripped off so i need to get those things fixed first.
However i only have 2 alerts, Coolant/brake fluid low so don't think my car will have issues to drive (no airbags deployed either)
The pyro by the 12v battery u can just short it for testing
For main battery pyro, i think if you can charge then that one should be good too? someone correct me if im wrong...
In any case, every electronic in your car should power up with just 12v. Mine did as soon as i jumped the car (showed 0mi) then i plugged in charger n it started charging itself n 12v battery (at this point i removed jumpers).
Question for everyone, where do i get EU CCS retrofit kit if i don't have a "friend" in korea?
I've searched ebay/google and coming up empty...
I wanna root the car n get P2D removed n CCS enabled so i need everything installed first to do it all in one shot
New to this group. I have a 2018 M3 salvage title. No air bags deployed, minor damage that for some reason was declared total loss and salvaged. For 3 years after salvage, I had access to superchargers with no incidents. Then I was banned, no warning, almost stranded after a long road trip. My questions are as follows: 1. Any way to get around the ban/disable? 2. Can I CCS enabled? currently disabled. 3. Does the salvage title prevent me from getting software updates? Haven't had any since the supercharger ban.
@M0rpH3x
Can you share details on your AC vacuum rental? How did you get one that has only had POE oil and hasn't been posioned by PAG oil? I'm in the same boat, trying to recharge mine. Sorry for the bold text, I can't seem to unbold it.
Oh, I was extremely lucky that the equipment was new in the shop I rented (I think it was O'Reilly). But yes, that can be a big problem.
brainhouston
Active Member
Correct me if im wrong, but i think recovering/vacuuming should be ok with "dirty" equipment as long as u clean the connection valves, since that would be pulling stuff out of your car n won't contaminate.
For charging, can't we just use small cans of oil/refrigerant n puncture hose they sell in auto parts stores? that should give u clean charge...
FYI, I was looking around n i can't find ND-11 oil... the equivalent seems to be Hybrid oil they sell in stores...
Anyways, i'll be doing all this soon after i put my car together so i can report back
That would be so awesome if you were right @brainhouston. I have a hard time believing car dealers buy 2 ac vacuum units to keep the oils separate and uncontaminated. I'll read up more on how they work and are cleaned. A how-to guide on Tesla owners recharging their own AC systems, or by shops other than Tesla, would be a huge breakthrough and frequently referenced!
@brainhouston for vacuuming/recovering I'd say you are right. For charging, if you want to use a manifold, then you need it to be clean. Of course you can use these cans that are directly plugged to the port and have their own pressure meter.
I wouldn't recommend that you put ND-11 oil, unless you know you lost a lot. Too much oil can break the system too, you must be very careful with that.
I wouldn't recommend that you put ND-11 oil, unless you know you lost a lot. Too much oil can break the system too, you must be very careful with that.
@cleverscreenam You can use any guide around to charge your Tesla A/C. There are only two things you need to take into account:
- You need a clean manifold, if you use one, because of the oil.
- The high pressure line doesn't have a valve. If you remove the cap, everything goes away. So I just didn't use it to charge the A/C.
- You need a clean manifold, if you use one, because of the oil.
- The high pressure line doesn't have a valve. If you remove the cap, everything goes away. So I just didn't use it to charge the A/C.
brainhouston
Active Member
I'm not planning to use manifold, just a small hose that they sell for small cans. You really don't even need a gauge if your cans add up to the proper amount, just charge till they empty. But i do agree that if you use Pag manifold/gauges then need to clean them first.
I used Robinair machine to recover and it sucked out 80ml of oil so i'll be putting same amount back.
Wow, i've never seen that. It must be a mistake on someone else's part from before...
My car definitely had a valve and nothing came out when i took both caps off.
I've seen cars not having High pressure port at all but never seen one not having shrader valve in the port...
Also, i don't think the cap is actually designed to keep so much pressure that high side creates (~300psi on a hot day i think?..)
