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Well usually if asking to clarify who you are asking you hit reply so the members know who you are talking too. I didn’t check the previous post to see what wheels were posted that may have been dark black and the lack of mentioning red threw me off lol. The dark black or aka gloss black wheels are the BBS Rims UP01 that Unplugged Performance sales/or sold, not sure if they still do. So they were just black with brushed lips before I had my friend make them exactly how I pictured. So costs is extremely difficult to say since they Retail for $6k I believe and than to have someone Powder Coat them that all can range from who you choose, and it doesn’t hurt when you’re friends with them. I like to personalize most my rims so he has done every set better than I could even imagine them turning out.
@tyler2323 Awesome looking overall modded S!
Just teasing you, but have you considered taking pictures with a better camera? The pics look so noisy and grainy, its hard to appreciate your cool looking car. I'm just anal about photography in general as its my hobby.
- What size are the wheels and tires?
- What is the CF spoiler you have? It doesn't look like the OEM one
Just teasing you, but have you considered taking pictures with a better camera? The pics look so noisy and grainy, its hard to appreciate your cool looking car. I'm just anal about photography in general as its my hobby.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
How do you like the UP Brackets? I have them on mine, and while I like them overall, I find that if I park on a slightly unlevel surface, it can take the car a while to re-adjust back to perfectly level on all four corners (as in, one is 1/2" higher than the others for a bit, then resets eventually). Might be more of a general Air Suspension thing than a UP Bracket thing, just curious if you notice that too.
I have them too, haven't had any issues like that, or any at all for that matter.
bwherry
Member
@Aggmeister2010 I've noticed that too, with my UP brackets. I think it's just a general smart air suspension thing - it's just more noticeable when the fender gap is smaller. That's my theory anyway.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
Ok, that makes me feel better.
I agree with you, I don't think this is tied to the UP brackets - I experienced something similar with lowering links a while back, but a bit more severe...likely because links change the arm length and trajectory rather than just the physical sensor position.
So, like you suggested, I think this is just the frequency with which the Airmatic computer reads the sensor position and adjusts pressure/height. I measure my ride height fairly often just to make sure everything's working well, and sometimes it's a little cantered to one side by about 1/2 inch, sometimes it's perfect, sometimes it's off in the other direction. It seems to all depend on when it last checked the sensor position.
I have had it in over 8 Tesla’s not once did I ever experience that. I also add link sometimes depending how much lower I want to go for pictures etc. Not sure why that’s happening. What year and model do you have?
@tyler2323 Awesome looking overall modded S!
- What size are the wheels and tires?
- What is the CF spoiler you have? It doesn't look like the OEM one
Just teasing you, but have you considered taking pictures with a better camera? The pics look so noisy and grainy, its hard to appreciate your cool looking car. I'm just anal about photography in general as its my hobby.
They are regular Tesla spec 21inch staggered rims. Some pictures it has adapters others it does not. Spoiler is the old unplugged performance spoiler that’s discontinued.
Has UP Custom Headlights as well that they discounted.
Yes it’s not finished I’m sure you can tell the hood isn’t sitting as flat as it should. Waiting for new hinges than will have professional pictures taken. It might end up with a prior design hood instead as well and it could also have Revozport side skirts and fender flares on either bumper. I like how it looks now but I will have it with both bumpers installed as I do all the work myself. Both bumpers are going to be painted. The Prior Design bumper will have chrome red wrap in the areas that are black on this white prior design S. The bottom spoiler on the PD bumper which is really thin and hard to noticed will be hydro dipped carbon fiber. If I decide to do the prior design rear bumper it will have the diffuser part hydro dipped carbon fiber as well. If I do the whole prior design kit side skirts, rear/front bumper and rear spoiler it will basically have all the areas that are black on the white one in red chrome. However the main theme of this build was to do as much carbon fiber as possible so it will most likely stay the way it looks in the last picture besides the addition of red chrome accents. The door handles will be carbon fiber overlay with red chrome vinyl when it comes out instead of the white it has now. The emblems will all be red chrome vinyl too. So have a few things to finish. Right now it’s a P85D with a Tesla facelift bumper and facelift carbon fiber hood. The Tesla bumper is going to have a Revozport Matte Carbon fiber front Splitter (seen in the last picture) to match all the other body kit parts like the side skirts and rear diffuser which are unplugged performance parts in matte/dry Carbon Fiber. Of course the window trim will be chrome deleted in either matte, satin or gloss black. It’s still not quite finished but will be very soon. I’ll post some pictures when I get a chance or you can wait too see it done, to give an idea of what it may look like with the prior design bumper with or without the Revozport side skirts and fenders. These are just some other pics that may be a little better quality but won’t have legit ones until they send photographers out to take them. This just shows some of the carbon parts but there are much more
spsheridan
Member
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
2016.5 Model S P90D. In all fairness, I also have aftermarket control arms to adjust my rear camber - I've had an alignment and had Tesla re-set the corner heights since then, but I suppose that could mess with the Airmatic data as well.
Aggmeister2010
Active Member
If you'd be open to it, over the next few days, when you park - take a tape measurer and measure ground-to-wheel-arch on each side. See if you notice any variance on different surfaces and whatnot. That would really help some of us figure out if we have a system fault or just a normal adjustment.
Love your Turbo badge.
Lol just did cuz of Porsche. Was going to do P187D over it, meaning it’s murdering the Porsche Taycan Turbo Lol. Good thing I didn’t cause the Taycan Porsche posted better times again than the Tesla.
Can’t lie I would definitely get one but can’t justify the $250k price tag when you add it all the options. But I owned many Panamera’s and they were great cars. Was never into the 2dr Porsche’s like the 911 etc, just reminds me of Office Space and Lumbergh Haha.
Of course the 918 trumps all that and is probably my favorite car of any I could choose to own.
Had 2 of the exact same model but P90DL’s. I would say that if anything I could see maybe one my P85D+ doing it cause of the adaptive self leveling suspension but it has never either. The Unplugged Performance brackets are definitely the way to go vs lowering links. I will literally spend so much time when I add links measuring them to make sure they are all identical in size (fronts and rears not all 4) and still feel like one side is off when I know it isn’t. It will be if you don’t make sure to measure precisely. For me it’s something that drives my OCD part of me crazy. That’s why I always buy the UP brackets.
No way cause if it does than I will never stop thinking about it lol. Just reading this will make me self conscious about it and pay attention to it always now. But using a tape measure is not something I want to end up obsessing over cause than I will want to know why and how to fix it.
Figuring out why Unplugged Performances Refresh Front Bumper had fitment issues had me going crazy until I finally did figure out why. The whole time they were bashing on installers not doing the installation properly when they knew what was up. They had too, cause they resorted to drilling holes to resolve it.
Do you only notice it as it’s parked? While it’s moving, if so for how long before it resets?
Not sure how many times you have installed them or even removed all for tires but afterward it will usually make a loud noise as it drops on one end as the car levels out. Afterwards they say to start from Very high and continue to lower to each setting until very low, and than again on the way back up. Now for the noise or shift you feel is clearly not the same and unrelated to what you are seeing. It could be that the Air Suspension hasn’t recalibrated itself perfectly that may be potentially causing what you are experiencing. You can try putting it in Jack Mode on high and just jack up one rear tire than do that to see if it’s possible that it something it’s done to mess with the computer. It’s highly unlikely it I always do that after switching rims etc, to make sure all corners are set equally and that the computer has cycled thru very high to vey low and back up and down again.
spsheridan
Member
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