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So...who's buying the "enhanced anti-theft" accessory?

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Good experiments. Thanks for the work!

So for me sounds like it is ultrasonic. I kinda thought @electronblue had it with the cabin overheat but your test says maybe not. Maybe you had to have your wife shift around in the seat to get it to go off. Also noticed no seat belt use in both front and back tests. The door open test in the front setting it off while not for the rear is puzzling.
 
Good experiments. Thanks for the work!

So for me sounds like it is ultrasonic. I kinda thought @electronblue had it with the cabin overheat but your test says maybe not. Maybe you had to have your wife shift around in the seat to get it to go off. Also noticed no seat belt use in both front and back tests. The door open test in the front setting it off while not for the rear is puzzling.
Thanks.
I was trying to re-create the common situation of leaving somebody waiting in the car.
Generally they might not be wearing their seatbelts in that situation.
Also confused about Alarm not going off when opening the back door. I might give that another try and see if it is a consistent behavior.
One thing I found on is important. One thing I found out is important Service Center, needs to do a firmware update after installation.
There is a process where they hardwire connect a laptop and run an installation program to make the car aware of the new hardware. My car lost it’s automatic wiper capability. All 4 settings were manual. They didn’t initially update the firmware because I was already up to date.
Reloading the same version (2018.49.20) I had again fixed the issue.
 
If ultrasonic sensors are used, it would explain why the cabin overheat feature is disabled when the alarm is set. Ultrasonic sensors are very sensitive to the variation in the temperature. Advantages and Disadvantages of Ultrasonic sensor
That might make sense. Although a drastic change in temperature could also be introduced when you attempt to cool the car down remotely using the app. So I’m still a little confused about why climate control is allowed but not overheat protection. I have done this numerous times where I see the temperatures near triple digits in the car, so I put on the AC remotely just before I go to it. It cools down very rapidly.
 
That might make sense. Although a drastic change in temperature could also be introduced when you attempt to cool the car down remotely using the app. So I’m still a little confused about why climate control is allowed but not overheat protection. I have done this numerous times where I see the temperatures near triple digits in the car, so I put on the AC remotely just before I go to it. It cools down very rapidly.
I don't understand it either. I hope we will get more information on how this system works and why overheat protection is not allowed.
 
I hope you guys don't figure this out. In behalf of all those that are buying the device, I wish you would discontinue speculation and discussing it. We don't need it to become known how it works or especially how to bypass it. While it makes sense that there are highly likely there are no bad guys reading TMC, that does not mean this thread would not pop up if they do a Google search after running into the installed device a couple of times. Okay, very unlikely that they would read, but do we need to help them in anyway?
 
I hope you guys don't figure this out. In behalf of all those that are buying the device, I wish you would discontinue speculation and discussing it. We don't need it to become known how it works or especially how to bypass it. While it makes sense that there are highly likely there are no bad guys reading TMC, that does not mean this thread would not pop up if they do a Google search after running into the installed device a couple of times. Okay, very unlikely that they would read, but do we need to help them in anyway?

I like it. Well for the record, the new Tesla interior alarm is so good that it cannot be defeated. In fact it not only makes the car alarm go off but it also alerts the owner through a text and phone call while simultaneously reporting a robbery in progress by calling 911 including GPS coordinates of the car. If the perp is in the car it (for model X) closes, locks and disables all doors and then proceeds to utilize the autonomous features of the car driving at high speed to the nearest police station. All the while every camera on the car records its video to be retrieved later for the conviction. So don't even try.

Couldn't resist. Sorry.
 
I like it. Well for the record, the new Tesla interior alarm is so good that it cannot be defeated. In fact it not only makes the car alarm go off but it also alerts the owner through a text and phone call while simultaneously reporting a robbery in progress by calling 911 including GPS coordinates of the car. If the perp is in the car it (for model X) closes, locks and disables all doors and then proceeds to utilize the autonomous features of the car driving at high speed to the nearest police station. All the while every camera on the car records its video to be retrieved later for the conviction. So don't even try.

Couldn't resist. Sorry.
Sentry Mode...
 
I had to delete and re-upload Part 2 video due to technical issues:
New Upload:
Tesla Enhanced Anti-theft Upgrade Demo Part 2
I just posted Part 2 in which I extensively tested functionality in several scenarios in response to many requests and questions here and in YouTube comments..
Tesla Enhanced Anti-theft Upgrade Demo Part 2
 
Yet another issue with this video again
Had to delete and re-upload again.
Sorry again for the inconvenience... argh argh argh...

New upload:
Tesla Enhanced Anti-theft Upgrade Demo Part 2

Yet another issue with this video.
Had to delete and re-upload again.
Sorry for the inconvenience... argh

New upload:
Tesla Enhanced Anti-theft Upgrade Demo Part 2
 
I removed the IRO camera before the install because I was getting a new windshield at the same time. However I can’t imagine that it’s using that connector since it’s not on during periods of time when the car is off.
As I understand it they replace the entire grill in front of the mirror that’s on the headliner where the microphone is.
So I imagine the sensor is connected to the power in that area. For those who are using the power for constant feed from that area it may be an issue. I am not.
I don’t have the car back yet though so I’ll find out when I pick up the car later today with any luck.

Hey @Daniellane did you manage to hook back your IRO cam after the Enhanced Anti Theft install?
 
Awesome!
How did you manage to provide the IRO dashcam with power now that the Enhanced Anti Theft module is plugged to the connector needed to power the dashcam?

I'm getting my Enhanced Anti Theft installed next Monday and I'm a bit worried about losing the ability to have both at the same time... :(
The IRO power taps into the power from the mirror. It has a y connector that provides the additional connector.
The enhanced anti- theft replaces the existing panel with the microphone & lights.
Some people have tied their power into an always-on connector in that space for power for dashcams including the IRO.
I’ll try to find links & post them.
 
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Awesome!
How did you manage to provide the IRO dashcam with power now that the Enhanced Anti Theft module is plugged to the connector needed to power the dashcam?

I'm getting my Enhanced Anti Theft installed next Monday and I'm a bit worried about losing the ability to have both at the same time... :(
I tapped into the 12v continuous inside the microphone housing just back from the mirror. The housing is easily removed either by hand or a plastic pry tool. There is a connector with 12v taped in place and not connected to anything. It's easy to fish a couple of wires from this location to where the mirror is. There are other posts that have good reference pictures of this 12v continuous source.

The first switch I bought had a plastic case surrounding the circuit board and it was 1" thick, but too thick to fit in the space above the microphone housing so I bought 2 very small switches consisting of a circuit board and 4 wires connecting to it (+ and -, in and out). I put insulation above it and electrical tape around the switch. Black wire from the 12v continuous feed to negative in on the switch, black and pink wire to the positive in on the switch. Positive and negative out from the switch to the dash cam.

Here is a picture of the switch and remote.

View attachment 303748

The location thing I mentioned was just a function of homelink - same concept as opening the garage door automatically when you pull up to your house. I have mine set to turn the camera off when I pull up to the mailbox about a hundred feet from the house before I even pull up to the garage.

By the way, I ended up using the other thicker switch with the case for the back dash cam. I went with Mobius 2 and replaced its internal battery with a super capacitor to hold up better with heat and long operating times. It's mounted at the top of the back glass and you can't see it at all when looking in the rear view mirror. Found 12v continuous in the back passenger side rear quarter. Works great - had it set up temporarily using the switched socket in the center console, but like it better hardwired and with the remote on and off capability.
 
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Awesome!
How did you manage to provide the IRO dashcam with power now that the Enhanced Anti Theft module is plugged to the connector needed to power the dashcam?

I'm getting my Enhanced Anti Theft installed next Monday and I'm a bit worried about losing the ability to have both at the same time... :(
You'll need to build a bypass cable. There is a company that sells the parts, you just need to assemble the cables. This will provide you with the 12volt bypass for your camera, at least that's what I did for my Blackvue
 
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